andyblack
Registered Loser
You should use one of them on a spare tire mount like a prerunner.
CK5
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I thought about this however if I'm taking the spare off I'm likely taking a wheel off so whats a couple more lug bolts on the spare for the cordless impact? I know I'll use them somewhere in the build.....
Ordered the rear brake lines from WFO this morning.
andyblack
Registered Loser
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
For $120 and being that I'm just a weekend garage monkey it's served me well for the last couple of years. Pretty handy at the junkyards too. Had to buy a new battery over the weekend but for $15 I bought two.
Link to said impact?
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
It was in a picture recently posted but its the harbor freight chicago cordless impact. its the only one they offer in 1/2 inch drive
By no means would I compare it's torque to a Snap On, Matco or Milwaukee however it has enough torque to break the ring gear bolts loose and usually most lug nuts.
Take a look at this and make sure I'm not missing something here.
This is Kert's anti-wrap kit and I'm trying to figure out the best position for the crossmember.
Originally I thought the crossmember should be setup like this:
Obviously I would need to notch the crossmember which isn't a big deal however the part that kinda bugged me more was the fact that the anti-wrap would only be about 28-29" long, seemed to short and it was at a steeper angle than the driveshaft.
So I unbolted the small crossmember that runs between the body mounts and flipped the DIY anti-wrap crossmember around bringing the shackle about 7-8" toward the front of the vehicle. Now the Anti-wrap is 36"sh long and more inline with the driveshaft angle
As you can see, I have 1 9/16" clearance from the shackle to the driveshaft with the weight of the truck on the axle. Obviously I'm missing a bed and gear but I'm pretty sure this will be ok. I'm not planning on jumping this rig
shot from the back
and I think I found a permanent home for the lower shock mounts and upper shock crossmember
My plan is to weld everything on the axle this weekend so I can pull it all apart for paint.
This is Kert's anti-wrap kit and I'm trying to figure out the best position for the crossmember.
Originally I thought the crossmember should be setup like this:
Obviously I would need to notch the crossmember which isn't a big deal however the part that kinda bugged me more was the fact that the anti-wrap would only be about 28-29" long, seemed to short and it was at a steeper angle than the driveshaft.
So I unbolted the small crossmember that runs between the body mounts and flipped the DIY anti-wrap crossmember around bringing the shackle about 7-8" toward the front of the vehicle. Now the Anti-wrap is 36"sh long and more inline with the driveshaft angle
As you can see, I have 1 9/16" clearance from the shackle to the driveshaft with the weight of the truck on the axle. Obviously I'm missing a bed and gear but I'm pretty sure this will be ok. I'm not planning on jumping this rig
shot from the back
and I think I found a permanent home for the lower shock mounts and upper shock crossmember
My plan is to weld everything on the axle this weekend so I can pull it all apart for paint.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Interesting set up. Everything looks good so far. As far as clearances go it should be okay because like you said you're not jumping the things so given that the axle shouldn't be fully compressed on both sides at the same time, moving the driveshaft closer to the wrap bar.
May is coming up fast huh?
May is coming up fast huh?
I may keep it in the first position, just move it toward the cab and drill new holes. Kind of a happy medium....
and yes I'm feeling the pressure after not getting much done over the holiday weekend
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I may keep it in the first position, just move it toward the cab and drill new holes. Kind of a happy medium....
and yes I'm feeling the pressure after not getting much done over the holiday weekend
sounds like a plan. Seems like the least binding situation.
Tell me about it. I still have a lot on my plate but the only thing i can do is try to keep the hammer down. Did you have to move fuel lines for the shock inboarding?
Can you flip the bearing so its on the top side of that shackle? They you wont need to notch the crossmember. Or will it hit the floor?
It would be close, I'll take a look tonight.
Well if you can flip it and move the holes down on the shackle a inch, it would still get you tucked up higher.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Hey any news on the winch? Are you planning on doing sliders?
I'm suppose to get an update on the winch next week. Sliders are in the plans but I doubt I'll get to them before the trip.
I spent some time on the anti-wrap tonight using some PVC to figure out lengths and check for clearances. I'll take another look tomorrow before I start cutting material but I think I have it all figured out.
I spent some time on the anti-wrap tonight using some PVC to figure out lengths and check for clearances. I'll take another look tomorrow before I start cutting material but I think I have it all figured out.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Sounds good! Yeah im going to start focusing on sliders here shortly, luckily i have everything made already. I actually bought mine from trail gear which were 1.75"D .120 wall DOM. I was going to make them but for $175 and free shipping i couldn't resist.
Cant wait to see the wrap bar all finished. I know ill need one but i doubt ill have time for that.
Cant wait to see the wrap bar all finished. I know ill need one but i doubt ill have time for that.
My sliders will be simple, 2x6 tied to the frame with some square tube
Here are the mock up pictures from last night. I tried to flip up the receiver (bearing) end at the shackle but it would definitely hit the bed and or the cab depending on where the upper shackle location was.
I think this will work....
