Keep it up dude. Frame is looking good. I really like that EcoBox. I still want to get one of those for my K5 one day (maybe after my crew cab is done). Looks sick!
CK5
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Thanks.
Need to get the frame out and around the truck somehow to finish the destruction/prep in the driveway. The plasma was throwing sparks everywhere and I was afraid the fence would catch on fire.
The Eco box is a nice piece, would be a great addition to your rig for sure.
I'm contemplating whether I should run the fuel & rear brake lines inside or outside of the frame rails? Obvious downside if I ran then inside the frame rails would be accessibility. Not sure why I would ever need to access them though? It's just hard line......
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Looks good so far!
Can I bother you for the distance between the cab and bed?
Might be worthwhile to somehow make that frame stamp go away...
As far as brake lines/fuel line...outside the frame all day. I'm going to weave in an out but I have braided fuel line...cheap off summit.
I guess in my mind I want to see my fuel line as opposed to having it hidden...I've never had a problem with fuel line but with my luck putting it behind the frame would eventually give me a problem haha.
Yeah I just like the idea of the lines being out of the way. I've also been reading a lot more about boxing these frames and it seems 1/8" is more than sufficient if you plan on having a cage the length of the chassis.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
Yeah I guess for your deal just make sure you have some rubber line between the tank that you can access to put a in line pump in or cut a hole in the bed to get to the pump. Just in case kinda deal.
Thanks for the pic!
8th inch is perfect. Anything more gets to be a pain to cut. I wouldn't be against using a little bit thicker material where the cab starts and ends but meh.
Thanks for the pic!
8th inch is perfect. Anything more gets to be a pain to cut. I wouldn't be against using a little bit thicker material where the cab starts and ends but meh.
I'll have short pieces of rubber line at the tank, the rest will be hardline. I'm also going to run big enough line to support fuel injection.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
The efi I'm using is calling out -6an...I think that's another way of saying 3/8" roughly. Pretty sure tbi uses 3/8 with like 5/16 returns.
I'm planning on running 3/8" feed, 5/16" return and I'll do a run of 1/4" for the rear brakes. I have a basket filled at summit with all this material.
Let me know if any of that is wrong
Let me know if any of that is wrong
drum or disc for the rear? Might consider 3/16 if it's disc IIRC
and the copper line from Summit is super easy to work with. Most of my '68 is plumbed in that. No problems
and the copper line from Summit is super easy to work with. Most of my '68 is plumbed in that. No problems
I'll let the beer assistant worry about that.
It's drum now, would likely be disc at some point. Stock is 1/4" to the rear but I'm guessing because of the calipers (less volume) the 3/16" would be sufficient? From the "T" I believe it chokes down to 3/16" to each rear corner.
I looked at copper but it's more expensive so I'm going with galvanized steel line that has positive reviews from summit.
I ran 3/16" front and rear on my dodge with disks in the rear (Chevy calipers in the rear and dual piston factory ford calipers front) and a master cylinder from a 2001 Silverado. Works GREAT other than I need a proportioning valve because the rear locks up if you stand on em. On 42s it feels as good or better than stock. FWIW the Silverado master has a little bigger bore. The brake line I got was just some oreillys stuff that came coiled up in a box. Just my .02
Thanks for the feedback. I already ordered the 1/4" this morning so I'll end up running that at least to the "T" in the rear. When I decide to run discs I'll add a proportioning valve or whatever is necessary to make the rear pressure/volume correct.
You bet! I doubt there's a whole lot of difference between a 3/16 and 1/4 system?
Probably depends who you ask....right?
The truck stops pretty good now so I'll stick with what's in it currently.
You will get a stiffer pedal with 3/16 using rear discs I believe. Just helps build pressure sooner than 1/4.
I like the copper stuff cause its super easy to bend and flare. The steel stuff works just fine too.
I like the copper stuff cause its super easy to bend and flare. The steel stuff works just fine too.
Yep, that's my understanding with the smaller ID line.
I've bent up brake lines on a couple cars with steel so I'm familiar with it.
I saw someone on Facebook boxing the frame with steel that had 4" holesaw cuts in it every foot or so.
Then you could run everything inside the frame, and still access it?
Martin
Then you could run everything inside the frame, and still access it?
Martin
There's a guy who sells a kit like that for $500
I'm not going for a completely boxed/sealed frame rails so I'm not opposed to some speed holes either.
