CK5
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oh so the silver side (up in the photo) slides into the manifold with the small end of the donut going downstream?
 
Glad to hear you're going to.....lay some pipe.

I too, might be laying some pipe tonight. Not sure if I'll get lucky though.
 
the google and interwebz has found some interesting and helpful info once again. These manifolds are stainless steel supposedly (CK5 seller also stated this) and they're commonly found on 1986-1989 P30 454 motor home chassis. Winnebago, Pace Arrow's etc.

Also found a dude that pimped his out on another board

BB SS.JPG

the donut gasket it's calling for is VICTOR REINZ F20423, Like the one @F.S.F.W posted
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...22JyeN6AaQgz0pO-3ncH4WwOfng7GGXDIZBoC6xPw_wcB
 
the google and interwebz has found some interesting and helpful info once again. These manifolds are stainless steel supposedly (CK5 seller also stated this) and they're commonly found on 1986-1989 P30 454 motor home chassis. Winnebago, Pace Arrow's etc.

Also found a dude that pimped his out on another board

View attachment 216744

the donut gasket it's calling for is VICTOR REINZ F20423, Like the one @F.S.F.W posted
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...22JyeN6AaQgz0pO-3ncH4WwOfng7GGXDIZBoC6xPw_wcB
With our combined lack of knowledge we can accomplish amazing things!
 
some progress was made over the weekend.

First was to replace the 2" 1/8th angle iron with 3/16" matching the 2" box 3/16" I'm using. May have not been necessary but I want it all the same. Also note that I angled those front pieces so the shackles will clear when they're stuffed.
IMG_2323sm_zpsdpxca89r.jpg


I tacked a piece of angle iron on the front of the skid to keep it square while welding. Added some gussets under the factory adapter/mount.
IMG_2304sm_zpsi6cjfmlr.jpg


IMG_2309sm_zpsynebj5tq.jpg


Once the frame is boxed I won't have access to the nuts inside the frame so I welded a bunch of flange nuts to the frame. Total of ten bolts hold this section to the frame.
IMG_2315sm_zps6urctnqf.jpg

IMG_2313sm_zps8gxhjdlh.jpg
 
Next was to support the back of the 205 and I wanted to keep that crossmember on the same plane as the others so I can run one flat skid plate the full length. So I clamped on a couple pieces of angle iron and placed a piece of 2" tube to see where it would be.
IMG_2317sm_zpsesnuxwhx.jpg


You'll also notice I cut a couple pieces of 3/16" plate on either frame rail for this crossmember to tie into.


came up with this sharpie design on my table....
IMG_2320sm_zpspbfxmlbq.jpg


fixed my bandsaw so it stopped eating blades. It's slow but it's clean and quiet.
IMG_2321sm_zps7v7vlijy.jpg


Jerry rigged my HF notcher since it's not designed to hold square 2"
IMG_2326sm_zpss5nlm4fu.jpg

IMG_2328sm_zpswglyen4m.jpg


IMG_2330sm_zpsju9wdzmv.jpg

IMG_2334sm_zpsz3af4jb4.jpg

IMG_2341sm_zpsgpozetso.jpg
 
Hell yeah, looks good :saweet:

How about some 1/8" fish plate gussets on the front and back of the rear crossmember tube where it angles up?
 
Hell yeah, looks good :saweet:

How about some 1/8" fish plate gussets on the front and back of the rear crossmember tube where it angles up?

Thanks.

I'll be cutting fishplates for those 45's.

Need to add more tube up in the front section under the trans and I'll tie the two cross members together as well. Then I'll be adding gussets with flange nuts to bolt the skid to, similar to what you did with counter sunk bolts.
 
I like seeing how you tackle the same or similar situations that I have and doing it your own unique way with some of the same ideas

I've spent waaaaaay too much time looking at crossmembers and different ways of doing them. With the frame differences between the K5/K10/K20's and a variety of different transmissions, crawl boxes, T-cases, exhaust etc. there really is a lot of variables to consider.

I just wish he would have done it sooner so I didn't have to think so hard about mine...

At least you can see how I did the NP205 support.
 
Nice clean work there. Are you going to be supporting the back of the case too?

Thanks and yes. If you look closely at the 205 you'll see a plate bolted over the rear cover (DIY4x kit). I'll weld a couple tabs off that with a bushed sleeve going to that 2x2 crossmember.

I'm pretty sure I'm not going to use the NWF mount that sandwhiches between the 205 and Eco box though. Unless I decide to modify it to work with the clock I did.
 

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