Mufflers don't care how they're mounted. As long as they are flowing the right way they will work the same in any position. It's all looking good! Hopefully I'll have some updates tomorrow on mine. This is motivating me!
CK5
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Got the flanges welded up
Then moved onto the crossmember for the anti-wrap after trying to make the diy4x piece work. I may have mentioned previously but it was interfering with my driveshaft at full bump so I wanted to move the crossbar up higher between the frame rails.
I'll probably end up playing with the length of the lower bar on the anti-wrap and I need to plate it.
Then onto the shocks, I ran the DIY in boarding kit which wouldn't work with a boxed frame so I picked up some two bolt tabs from Kert so I could still use the inner section of the shock crossmember. Boxed it with 1/4" and used some 1.75" DOM to make up the missing length.
Then moved onto the crossmember for the anti-wrap after trying to make the diy4x piece work. I may have mentioned previously but it was interfering with my driveshaft at full bump so I wanted to move the crossbar up higher between the frame rails.
I'll probably end up playing with the length of the lower bar on the anti-wrap and I need to plate it.
Then onto the shocks, I ran the DIY in boarding kit which wouldn't work with a boxed frame so I picked up some two bolt tabs from Kert so I could still use the inner section of the shock crossmember. Boxed it with 1/4" and used some 1.75" DOM to make up the missing length.
Looking good brotha! You're going to kill me when I tell you what I've gone and done, but it's going to be amazing when it's finished.
You're almost ready for BB17!
Thanks and I hope it's at least K5 related.......
brokenparts
1/2 ton status
Nice clean work there!
Also found a little issue when trying to install the JB Fab hardware on the shift rails. The NWF figure 8 adapter doesn't have enough clearance, nor does the mount, so I'll need to pop those off and clearance them a little. As mentioned before, the mount doesn't accomadate the clocking I did so I need to get creative there anyway. I really wish NWF offered a mount for clocking flat....
Here are some pics for clarification.
Here are some pics for clarification.
Nothing a cut off wheel and grinder can't fix.
Dirty is good for the soul.
Well, it is technically a GM product and it will be rocking a full width 8 lug 10 bolt up front . . . so yep, it is K5 related
Hahahahaha
Moving onto the fuel tank now and ran into a bit of an issue. I originally wanted to make a cage for the fuel tank to sit in and then I would strap the top of the tank so it's serviceable from above. However the tank seams are too wide to fit between the rails therefore it would be a bitch if I ever needed to remove it. I feel like it sits too high if I have it above the rails and it would kill another 6"+ of bed space.
Here are some pics of it with the seams inside of the rails.
Here are some pics of it with the seams inside of the rails.
Can you trim those flanges down?
I don't think so, not without creating a leak. Might be able to bend them, the clearance is tight between the rails.
Trim the frame. Nothing is back there anyway. That is what I did for mine.
I would think there is a fair amount of stress on that section of frame with the rear spring hangers out back. I'm boxing all of that either way.
This is a shot with the tank flanges on top of the rails.
This is a shot with the tank flanges on top of the rails.
Take a look at mine on page 42 on my build. The tank fit fine going in from the bottom. The factory mounts I just moved to the top of the frame. My frame is a bit flatter then yours but it gives you a idea to work with.
This is why I haven't been gungho about a K5/Burb tank either. I know I don't want to sacrifice the bed and I hate to loose the rear ground clearance.
I don't mind losing a little space in the bed however I hate seeing dead space under the truck while I sacrifice bed space. I need to find happy medium. The smaller k5 tank was fine under the truck.....
