Cable shifter or mechanical?
CK5
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I haven’t heard anything about the input, just the 32 spline front output.
the first time it happened I was going down steep loose rock on the Flat Iron Mesa trail. Truck slid sideways when the front popped out and thankfully I figured out the front came out (pulled it back in) and saved a potentially VERY BAD situation. I’m always grabbing my front lever since that experience.
The CK5 member that told me about the front output difference was able to swap it out with a Ford from ORD. Apparently the difference is minimal enough that only some people experience the problem.
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Yeah was my bad, read that wrong. Curious on that difference though
After I tore into a 205 from a plow truck, I got suspicious of the wear on the shift fork AND the shift ring. Could you have some wear that comes into play with the output shaft?
That's quite a trip!!
That's quite a trip!!
After I tore into a 205 from a plow truck, I got suspicious of the wear on the shift fork AND the shift ring. Could you have some wear that comes into play with the output shaft?
That's quite a trip!!
could be, I need to tear it down for an inspection.
My buddy's will pop out too. His is a stock '79 case with twin stick. We thought maybe it was because he didn't grind the rails correctly so we swapped in rails from JB. It still does it. I can't remember for sure, but I think this is down hill situations as well. He has manual sticks.
@skunked, thinking about going high-steer?
@skunked, thinking about going high-steer?
I have JB rails too.
yes I am but I’ll probably wait for the winter. That’s what I’m thinking anyway.
Sometimes I think it would have been easier if I would have just stuck with conventional location. I've been tempted to do a full hydro double ended/double acting ram to the factory connection on the knuckles and build a skid plate for the ram.
Obviously not exactly like that since leaf springs are involved. I guess now that it's set up the high steer assist is not a huge problem. Just getting everything to clear and line up right was a pain to begin with. It does require losing a couple inches of up travel to keep the ram from hitting the engine crossmemeber.
But if I had to do it all over again, I'm on the fence. It is nice not to have to worry about bent tie rods.
Obviously not exactly like that since leaf springs are involved. I guess now that it's set up the high steer assist is not a huge problem. Just getting everything to clear and line up right was a pain to begin with. It does require losing a couple inches of up travel to keep the ram from hitting the engine crossmemeber.
But if I had to do it all over again, I'm on the fence. It is nice not to have to worry about bent tie rods.
I have to agree, my high steer saga has been a PITA. My issue is caused by the axle being moved forward (and don't want to change back), had I known all this before I would have put that money in hydraulics.
You could do full hydro with a steering box and draglink
I remember all the clearance issues you had, that was one of my reasons to stick with the conventional steering on the last couple phases of the build.
Full hydro is an option however a slippery slope escalating this rig to trailer queen status.
full hydro is a better option for your application. I’ve spent 10 hours + driving to and from the trails in the past month so I’m hesitant to make that commitment.
I understand completely. In hindsight, while I don’t necessarily want to travel in mine, I do wish it were better suited for short trips.
I don't know if you'd want to daily drive a full hydro rig, but for driving to and from the trail and the like I don't think it would be too bad.
One thing I should have done was use smaller diameter tie rod and draglink. I used stuff I already had which was 1.5" diameter. 1.25" diameter would be sufficient for high steer and not add to clearance issues.
Another thing to consider would be mounting the tie rod behind the axle. That's how I had it set up on my K5. Might allow the ram to set further from the engine crossmember.
One thing I should have done was use smaller diameter tie rod and draglink. I used stuff I already had which was 1.5" diameter. 1.25" diameter would be sufficient for high steer and not add to clearance issues.
Another thing to consider would be mounting the tie rod behind the axle. That's how I had it set up on my K5. Might allow the ram to set further from the engine crossmember.
Something about the mechanical disconnect of full hydro at highway speeds bugs me.
I’m definitely considering putting the tie rod & ram behind the axle too. I just need to spend some time under the truck mocking it up and checking clearances. I wouldn’t mind pushing the axle another inch or two forward if I can.
I’m definitely considering putting the tie rod & ram behind the axle too. I just need to spend some time under the truck mocking it up and checking clearances. I wouldn’t mind pushing the axle another inch or two forward if I can.
Interesting, @mrk5 what set up were you running with the WFO arms?
I recently tried the WFO arms and they were nowhere near close to working for me. (2" lift 52's + Zero Rate and the axle moved 3" forward)
My axle being 3" forward makes my drag link and (high steer) tie rod hit and the tie rod rubs the u-bolt nut at a full right turn.
I recently tried the WFO arms and they were nowhere near close to working for me. (2" lift 52's + Zero Rate and the axle moved 3" forward)
My axle being 3" forward makes my drag link and (high steer) tie rod hit and the tie rod rubs the u-bolt nut at a full right turn.
Those zero rates are causing some of your problems. My leafs are a slightly smaller pack with offset pins (no blocks) so I don’t think I’ll have those same issues. My main concern is keeping the tie-rod away from the oil pan.
I had about 3"- 4" of pan clearance in that pic.
I would have less at ride height so full bump is a concern.
Oil pan wasn't an issue for me but it was a 350.
@nvrenuf I had 52's for springs and as skunked mentioned, no zero rate. You'll notice on mine I had heim ends and I had to add a tall spacer. I don't remember if those washers under the spacer were temporary or not. I seem to remember I found a taller spacer for the heim joints.
My axle was moved forward about 1.5" but still centered on the spring pack. I had relocated the thru the frame hangers and then made custom spring hangers at the front so the entire suspension was moved forward.
@nvrenuf I had 52's for springs and as skunked mentioned, no zero rate. You'll notice on mine I had heim ends and I had to add a tall spacer. I don't remember if those washers under the spacer were temporary or not. I seem to remember I found a taller spacer for the heim joints.
My axle was moved forward about 1.5" but still centered on the spring pack. I had relocated the thru the frame hangers and then made custom spring hangers at the front so the entire suspension was moved forward.
I have these old school arms from WFO and if they work I want to convert them to springless.
