You have the extra challenge of using a non-factory slave mount. So factory parts may not yield factory results. FWIW, all of my parts came from the same application (1986 K10), and the parts still didn't quite work right.
CK5
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84 K20 "Ethel" Not an Sbc/NV4500/241C
- Thread starter sreidmx
- Start date
Semi restoration of a 1984 K20 pickup.
5.3 LS, nv4500, np241c.
You have the extra challenge of using a non-factory slave mount. So factory parts may not yield factory results. FWIW, all of my parts came from the same application (1986 K10), and the parts still didn't quite work right.
Greaaatttt...
I can check the couple I have. I have a complete '76 smallblock and trans together still that has the pivot on the aluminum bellhousing and I also have a '69 trans that had the pivot on the smallblock engine with a cast iron bellhousing. My '81 with the big block has the pivot on the engine.
That's up to you, I'm not sure how applicable it would be, i did some recon and there's a bunch of different forks for all sorts of applications..
So is it just trial and error to find the right fork and bearing setup that will work and hope that you can adjust your pushrod and get everything happy?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
In my opinion, the pushrod is the easiest part if its adjustable "all thread" like AA gives you. Make sure the parts that are inaccessible when the engine is in are right first cause it's no fun to remove the motor to fix it.
If you can assemble the fork, release bearing, and bellhousing, mark the maximum and minimum fork positions with a sharpie somewhere that's easy to see. Don't use any springs for this. Then bolt the motor on with the clutch pressure plate, move the fork so the release bearing isn't touching the pressure plate, and then note where the fork position ends up between the marks you made.
If the fork is too close to the maximum fork position, you won't be able to release the clutch.
If the fork position is touching the minimum position mark you made, you'll burn the bearing up and be slipping your clutch.
Ideally, you want the assembled fork position close to the minimum position without actually touching it. That ensures all the fork movement when you press the pedal is going towards releasing the clutch and not just moving the bearing closer to the pressure plate.
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a 4L80E or TH400 would fix all this ya know.
Hahaha oh a 6l90 crossed my mind many times..
I'll see what I can do with the straight fork and the bearing I have now. I think I can measure the engagement now and if that number changes with the new fork it'll give me at least a direction to go.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Fwiw, I have the straight early style "cast" fork and use the short release bearing. My fork is "pointed" forward towards the front of the truck when I'm not pressing the pedal. When I step on the pedal, the fork moves past the point where it's perpendicular to the driveline and ends up pointing to the rear of the vehicle. I'd guess total movement is about 2.5-3.0" at the end of the fork and I set it up so the fork is perpendicular to the driveline when it reaches about half of its travel. I think that's a good rule of thumb.
Ok this will get me started for sure, thanks
Wow... assembled there is no real clearance.. I did get the bellhousing to bolt up ok but I bet the clearances are literally .005 or less like it barely moves at all so it'll prob never release.. that tells me I need a shorter bearing..
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Remember I make sure by moving the fork all the way forward until the bearing hits the transmission face. If it is, and you only have .005 clearance, I'd figure out how to add a little. If your bearing is like 2" long, it's the long style. The shorter one is like 1.25". If you use a short one, I'd recommend a centerforce bearing. It's the same size as the normal short bearing, but made of metal instead of plastic.
There is something else up. I really do only have .005 clearance.
1.22 TOB
4.16 clutch to block
4.21 trans bellhousing to face of TOB
1.22 TOB
4.16 clutch to block
4.21 trans bellhousing to face of TOB
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Normal is plastic???
It's a combination of plastic and metal. Probably works fine, but for a couple extra bucks, metal is better in my opinion.
So that is with the TOB in the center of the travel?
No that is all the clearance available.. it's that tight.
Ok just so I'm understanding. Clutch bolted to flywheel measuring from the fingers to the block gets the one measurement then throw out bearing installed on fork all the way against bellhousing measured to the face gets the other measurement?
Correct, fork pushed all the way to the bearing retainer. And clutch was measured as you said. Using a straight edge
