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84 turbo diesel suburban

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campfire said:
Benchracing question...who runs 20psi on a stock 6.2 long block? At least lower the CR a bit...
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No one does it for long on purely stock stuff, but on its face, compression vs boost isn’t really the problem. Ratios like 18:1, 20:1, 22:1 don’t really care much about 20psi of quality intercooled boost, but TTY head bolts do. Our Ricardo swirl injection needs a good bit of compression to work correctly, and it doesn’t take a lot of air to efficiently burn every drop of fuel coming out of a 4911 pump.

There’s a sweet spot somewhere in the 20:1 range, and up to 20psi of intercooled boost on factory intake and exhaust porting. Precups, thicker gaskets, good ring gaps, lots of cooling capacity, and stock pistons can get that done and keep it all alive.
campfire said:
My ATS kit came with a TE04, I assume Issaam's is the same?
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Banks kit was the same, too - a very safe compressor and impeller combination.

David
 
AgDieseler said:
No one does it for long on purely stock stuff, but on its face, compression vs boost isn’t really the problem. Ratios like 18:1, 20:1, 22:1 don’t really care much about 20psi of quality intercooled boost, but TTY head bolts do. Our Ricardo swirl injection needs a good bit of compression to work correctly, and it doesn’t take a lot of air to efficiently burn every drop of fuel coming out of a 4911 pump.

There’s a sweet spot somewhere in the 20:1 range, and up to 20psi of intercooled boost on factory intake and exhaust porting. Precups, thicker gaskets, good ring gaps, lots of cooling capacity, and stock pistons can get that done and keep it all alive.

Banks kit was the same, too - a very safe compressor and impeller combination.

David
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I have another engine that is a low miles ran good but I gave away the ip.
I am thinking of hopping it up to put in the crew cab with your turbo.
Only I am thinking about building my own turbo exhaust manifold.
Arp studs, girdles on the bottom end and a good ip guessing 4911?
 
If you're going to keep boost low, say 10 psi average. TTY bolts will be just fine, using brand new ones of course. That said head studs are a good upgrade and just plain work better. Now you do need to make sure the threads are clean and to use thread sealant on them. Also on the passenger side head you'll have to install the studs after the head is sitting in place. The newer stud sets come with an Allen slot to drive them in.

Water pumps are relatively cheap and you're half way there, so I'd change it.

campfire said:
Benchracing question...who runs 20psi on a stock 6.2 long block? At least lower the CR a bit... :eek1:
Click to expand...

I ran upwards of 25 psi on my 6.5 block. But it had 18:1 pistons, head studs, main girdle, intercooler, and a marine DB2 pump pushing 105ccs. It ran like a raped ape, but it wasn't crazy about cold starts. Once warmed up though it was look out :burnout: . The main reason I didn't reuse that block and went with a 6.2 block. It couldn't keep oil pressure for anything. I'll eventually find a good block to put all my low cr goodies into.
 
KirsL said:
If you're going to keep boost low, say 10 psi average. TTY bolts will be just fine, using brand new ones of course. That said head studs are a good upgrade and just plain work better. Now you do need to make sure the threads are clean and to use thread sealant on them. Also on the passenger side head you'll have to install the studs after the head is sitting in place. The newer stud sets come with an Allen slot to drive them in.

Water pumps are relatively cheap and you're half way there, so I'd change it.



I ran upwards of 25 psi on my 6.5 block. But it had 18:1 pistons, head studs, main girdle, intercooler, and a marine DB2 pump pushing 105ccs. It ran like a raped ape, but it wasn't crazy about cold starts. Once warmed up though it was look out :burnout: . The main reason I didn't reuse that block and went with a 6.2 block. It couldn't keep oil pressure for anything. I'll eventually find a good block to put all my low cr goodies into.
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I have a 599 block 6.2l just the block and caps if it is what you are looking for
 
imiceman44 said:
I have a 599 block 6.2l just the block and caps if it is what you are looking for
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Definitely interested. I'm a little short on cash and really short on storage since moving last month. Once I'm settled in more I'll talk to you about it. Might be a few months.
 
KirsL said:
Definitely interested. I'm a little short on cash and really short on storage since moving last month. Once I'm settled in more I'll talk to you about it. Might be a few months.
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No hurry.
I have had it for years
 
Love that color blue. Reminds me of my Dads first truck. Don't know why I didn't notice it sooner.
 
Finally after many moons I have taken the glow plugs out and started putting the engine back together and this time I got the wiring hooked up as I go.
Last time I had the engine assembled and dropped it in and I missed a few sensors and a few were hard to get to.
I got the heads on and wanted to see progress so I hooked up the fuel lines the batteries and started priming the engine, once I had fuel at the filter I hooked up the ip wires and bleed all the injectors.
I also reworked the butchered glow plug wires and installed the new Bosch glow plugs.
The relay is bad so I bypassed it, 10 seconds later I cranked for 5 seconds and it came to life.
It's funny watching the engine run with no intake or turbo.
I got a video with the smoke shooting from the intake ports randomly for a minute until it warmed up.
The engine sat for at least 6 months with no heads during the winter so I guess some water got in, the oil looks that weird color semi cloudy, and no it's not coolant there's none in the engine.
I am going to flush it and put some clean oil and filter.
Hopefully in the coming weeks I will finish it.

20200516_164631.jpg
 
Today I put the turbo and intake the rest of the accessories and wires.
Only thing missing now is the 700r4 controller. I can't find the little bolts to bolt it on the ip.
I also can't find the shroud.
I changed the oil and filter.
I got it started again and it started and then had weird tap.
I shut it off, checked that there was nothing wrong and started again, the starter did grind a little, I need to check the bolts, but it started.
When I gave it throttle it got louder, so I let idle for a few minutes and then I started giving it some throttle and slowly accelerating until something just got right and had smoother power.
It felt like collapsed lifter.
It probably was moisture in the oil got somewhere it didn't like.
I also messed with the tailgate glass and I got it to open and close reasonably normal and got the latches oiled so they finally lock.
I still need to put coolant and bleed the power steering/hydroboost.
I have a couple of little items on order, and I should be able to get it home and give it a good cleaning and start using it.
I will have to borrow the tires from the other suburban.
 
Its nice when you get them all together and right. I just finished the Banks install and now selling the Suburban tomorrow to a buddy.
 
eodcoduto said:
Its nice when you get them all together and right. I just finished the Banks install and now selling the Suburban tomorrow to a buddy.
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I am going to drive it while I see if people are buying now.
I want to keep it but my wife is too sensitive with smell, in my 2012 freightliner you can not smell anything and she does.
This one I can smell and I like the diesel smell.
 
campfire said:
I'm not 100% sure on this. But my understanding was that the TPS only controlled the EGR/EPR valves. I don't think either of my 700R4 rigs had TPS hooked up. :dunno:

Hmm...
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Well mine has it and it was hooked up.
When I took the heads off I misplaced the bolts.
Not a big deal.
 
Well it's all buttoned up, drove nice but I still have a problem with the hydro boost.
This time I bled it really well and it is not foaming anymore.
I also adjusted the rear brakes and it stop pretty good but I can't steer and brake and when I am standing still at idle I can barely turn the wheel with both hands, if rev it a little it gets better. And driving it the steering is good.
I am wondering if the pump is not good enough.
Also I don't think I have ever seen an accumulator like this, I guess I can charge it with nitrogen.
I wonder if it's home made.

20200521_155103.jpg
 
Also, while working on the tailgate I found this wire hanging loose in there.
Is that for the defrost?
The glass has a weird pattern that I thought was for privacy but it could be a heating element.

20200518_155147.jpg

20200518_155155.jpg
 
I have never seen a rechargeable accumulator. I'm guessing that's a homemade job there. Definitely sounds like the pump isn't working correctly.
 
Truckman4life said:
I have never seen a rechargeable accumulator. I'm guessing that's a homemade job there. Definitely sounds like the pump isn't working correctly.
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I am thinking changing the pump and the accumulator.
Not sure if I should change the hydro boost as well?
 
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