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'86 Jimmy 4in Lift, 40’s, tons, 8.1 Swap- 700r4 said PNNNNN

This is not a dedicated trail rig, but does trailer to the destination usually. I am currently in the planning phase of doing a 52/56" spring swap, and getting back to being more road worthy.
Overview Gallery Discussion
GWeakland620 said:
So I’ve got an issue that really isn’t that big of a deal on the trail, but really makes driving it on the road not safe. After I swapped the gearbox out for an orbital and made it full hydraulic steering, the steering is super sensitive and anything above 30mph is extremely sketchy. Anyone have insight to how I can slow the steering down a bit?

Someone suggested a larger diameter ram, but I’m not really looking to redo that part of the steering. I’d go back to hydro assist before I buy another ram.
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I'm not real good with hydraulics but I'd say maybe a reduction in flow would make it less touchy. Maybe an adjustable flow control valve in-line on the pressure line or a pump with less GPM. I'd have to find someone more knowledgeable on it than me to make sure.
 
Not that I am an expert on it either, but I would be curious to see if the pressure goes up a fair amount when running down the road. I think about how often people will increase engine RPM when having power steering problems to help out or see if it helps.
So if the pressure is higher and causing the orbital to respond faster, I don't know how you could reduce the pressure at road speeds while increasing the pressure at idle.
Hopefully the modifications to help out the steering at idle and lower rpm will be the solution whe NOT making on-road sensitivity worse.
 
skunked said:
make sure your toe is within spec.
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Welp, I think you might have nailed it.

I’ll dive in a little more tomorrow, but just a very quick measurement showed almost a half inch toed out on the front of the tires.

Plan is to bolt up some bare steel wheels I have tomorrow so I can take more precise measurements.
 
Much needed rain today, so I’m not going to complain. Kicked the wife’s Atlas out of the garage and “snuck” the Jimmy in.

IMG_6452.jpeg

Alignment was definitely off as I noticed something was loose immediately when I went to pull off the H2’s and 37’s.

Kingpin preload needed to be adjusted a lot and both heims were loose allowing over an inch of play in the toe.

I now have the toe locked in somewhere between 1/8th and 3/16th. Close enough to see how it does now. There’s a possibility that I might need new steering arms if the heim bolt holes are out of round.

IMG_6451.jpeg
 
Took it on a test drive before we left for a wedding. Steering is a lot tighter, but it’s still extremely sensitive. Makes for a sketchy drive about 40mph.
 
Ideally you want a longer pieces of metal bolted to each rotor face to measure toe. I have two 40" pieces of metal that I use specific for measuring toe and I string two tape measures over them and adjust as needed. Check your shackles, bolts ans bushings for slop too.
 
skunked said:
Ideally you want a longer pieces of metal bolted to each rotor face to measure toe. I have two 40" pieces of metal that I use specific for measuring toe and I string two tape measures over them and adjust as needed. Check your shackles, bolts ans bushings for slop too.
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I always figured the bars should be the same length as the tire diameter you're rurunning. I assume that's why yours are 40"?
 
mrk5 said:
I always figured the bars should be the same length as the tire diameter you're rurunning. I assume that's why yours are 40"?
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Not necessarily, the toe is an angle and to be more accurate a longer bar helps.
10' would be better but impractical
 
I have always thought the spec should say 1/8" to 3/16" at X" from hub centerline.
 
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