Maybe...I have a feeling you will still have to notch the tailhousing just a tad to clear the shift rail...but not much
CK5
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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter LNielson
- Start date
Maybe...I have a feeling you will still have to notch the tailhousing just a tad to clear the shift rail...but not much
I have the ord twin sticks. The pivot bolts to the adapter housing. No further cutting than the shift rail clearance.
They offer a specific one for the cummins swap which has more exhaust clearance.
They offer a specific one for the cummins swap which has more exhaust clearance.
No plans to cummings swap this, maybe a 454 eventually.
The minimized cutting of the tail housing sounds attractive for certain. Leaning more that direction, plus more shifters, what's not to like?
Installed my home brew 1" body lift today and a set of energy suspension poly bushings (PN34121G) It went in pretty easily. I only had one stubborn bolt in the bed that I had to weld a nut on to get it out.
It does create a surprising amount of extra space to reach stuff up under the truck. I'm glad I decided to go for the body lift.
Here's a few pics:
3" diameter x 1" tall 6061 Aluminum body lift pucks that I turned out on the lathe.
Beat to hell rockers make jack placement decisions really easy to make for this job:
Old body mounts were toast.
Factory bolts for reference: That's one of each mounting position.
Here's the stack with new bushings and the lift puck.
Here's the new bodylifted stance.
It does create a surprising amount of extra space to reach stuff up under the truck. I'm glad I decided to go for the body lift.
Here's a few pics:
3" diameter x 1" tall 6061 Aluminum body lift pucks that I turned out on the lathe.
Beat to hell rockers make jack placement decisions really easy to make for this job:
Old body mounts were toast.
Factory bolts for reference: That's one of each mounting position.
Here's the stack with new bushings and the lift puck.
Here's the new bodylifted stance.
Good looking stance. I will be doing the same for no other reason than the extra room for wrenching. Thanks for the tip on just buy the kit lol
Yeah I think I saved myself like maybe $40 total. but I spent 3 hours machining parts/cleaning up and had to go to all over town to source the hardware I needed. Built not Bought has its limits...
Maybe you should do bodywork and rock sliders next.
@Truckman4life Sliders are on the list, As for the bodywork, I'm keeping my eyes open for a cheap donor burb with decent doors/front clip. I have a round eye front clip I've debated swapping over, but that doesn't fix my beat up doors.
I'm torn between chopping the rockers right off and replacing with square tube, or fixing the rockers and adding sliders externally. The tube option would be way hard to go back to factory rockers.
I'm torn between chopping the rockers right off and replacing with square tube, or fixing the rockers and adding sliders externally. The tube option would be way hard to go back to factory rockers.
I've seen two rust free crew cabs for sale lately. One was only a grand for a '90 C30. 3+3. I vote cab swap with sliders or do the square tube rockers on yours if the rest is in good shape. Mine might get the square tube rockers some day. Round eye would be cool too!
So, I am confused, and frustrated ....
Some of us don't have a crew, and you are getting picky about some dented rockers!!???
Hahahaha! Just giving you some grief.
Some of us don't have a crew, and you are getting picky about some dented rockers!!???
Hahahaha! Just giving you some grief.
Cutting the rockers is the ONLY option.
What did happen to those rockers anyways?
Vombrown
Mountain Man
I have a 84 burb that you can come get anything you want. I've gotten everything I need from it. Hood and fenders are good, Doors have rust in the bottom but hey what do you want for free? Come pull them and you can have 'em. Montana.
Vombrown
Mountain Man
OH and it's buried in about two feet of snow right now but I have a dozer....LOL
Well, it had some of that damage when I brought it home. Couple that with the fact that I originally thought I'd chop this up into a "Cousin Willard" style wheeler. It made me not care if they got smashed. I quickly learned these things at 168" wheelbase on stock suspension should not be wheeled on twisty, tree lined, rocky trails. The utility of this thing just sucked me in and I didn't want to give up any of that. It really was more suited to my uses not chopped up, just needed to be built up. I should have been a bit more careful and gentler with it at first. It is definitely not so far gone that it couldn't be brought back with some fresh panels/doors, but it would need ALL of them replaced, bed included, to really be "nice". The dents and beat panels are just part of the charm now I guess. I still am going to bob the bed 6" or so, maybe chop the frame for a shortbed someday, but not go all the way to Cousin Willard. When I get done with my planned mods on this I'm going to start another K5 project.
Hey that is a sweet offer. I need a road trip to Montana, when your snow is gone. I'm not in that big of a hurry. I'd love to check out your projects in person too.
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Yes, my NV4500 will need a good shakedown cruise, round trip to MT might be far enough.
Yah just might be lol.
Plus we could head up through the park. Plenty of shifting to do there lol
