Vombrown
Mountain Man
It's formed steel so it might not need it. I was thinking in terms of the sharp edge around it as well. Plus if it was ever dropped it would deform an edge. Just random thoughts.
CK5
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'86 K30 Crew Cab Build
- Thread starter LNielson
- Start date
While I see your thoughts on this, I do wonder if it is necessary for anything beyond finish/ or quality of the end result. And that is hard to decide on a piece that will be covered up in the end.
Thanks for the suggestions, brainstorming is good.
I may just leave it in bedliner, if anything it will get more vinyl flooring. Carpet is too high maintenance for me. I have been known to open up all the doors and use the leaf blower to clean out the cab, it works great.
My NV4500 is all back together and ready to install.
I still need to get my hands on the correct fluid and get an input seal for my NP205 before I can tear into it. If I can find that stuff locally tomorrow, I'll be swapping this trans in this weekend. If not it will have to wait a couple weeks. If I can't find any fluid locally, I'm going with Redline MT-85 if I have to order it in. This stuff is still $15/quart. I'm also going to run it in my NP205 to prevent cross contamination if that input seal starts to leak.
Boring picture of freshly rebuilt transmission. This thing is heavy.
The input shaft, bearing retainer, all the bearings, and synchros had to be replaced. The gears all looked good so I'm reusing them. This trans has the vibration damper in it too.
I'm going to have to fab my own shifter. I'll make that out of some 3/4" round bar. I also bought a NOS Shift knob with the correct shift pattern on it. I found the PN for that on Larry's epic thread over on the 67-72 board.
I still need to get my hands on the correct fluid and get an input seal for my NP205 before I can tear into it. If I can find that stuff locally tomorrow, I'll be swapping this trans in this weekend. If not it will have to wait a couple weeks. If I can't find any fluid locally, I'm going with Redline MT-85 if I have to order it in. This stuff is still $15/quart. I'm also going to run it in my NP205 to prevent cross contamination if that input seal starts to leak.
Boring picture of freshly rebuilt transmission. This thing is heavy.
The input shaft, bearing retainer, all the bearings, and synchros had to be replaced. The gears all looked good so I'm reusing them. This trans has the vibration damper in it too.
I'm going to have to fab my own shifter. I'll make that out of some 3/4" round bar. I also bought a NOS Shift knob with the correct shift pattern on it. I found the PN for that on Larry's epic thread over on the 67-72 board.
Fresh paint on an ORD twinstick shifter kit. Very nice parts as usual from ORD.
Homemade shifter: 3/4" round bar 18" long. Drilled and tapped one end 16x1.5mm the other turned down and tapped 12x1.75mm to fit the shifter knob I bought. I may end up cutting it down a little shorter once it's installed, but this will be close enough to get me on the road.
Shift knob PN for reference
Installed on the trans.
Very pleased with the 2000lb capacity HF transmission jack. It lifts up way high and is very sturdy. Definitely a decent quality tool.
Sadly no locally available gear oil, so looks like I'll be waiting for it to come in the mail.
Homemade shifter: 3/4" round bar 18" long. Drilled and tapped one end 16x1.5mm the other turned down and tapped 12x1.75mm to fit the shifter knob I bought. I may end up cutting it down a little shorter once it's installed, but this will be close enough to get me on the road.
Shift knob PN for reference
Installed on the trans.
Very pleased with the 2000lb capacity HF transmission jack. It lifts up way high and is very sturdy. Definitely a decent quality tool.
Sadly no locally available gear oil, so looks like I'll be waiting for it to come in the mail.
Nice!
Love that trans jack too.
Love that trans jack too.
I pulled my SM465 today to swap in the NV4500, The bellhousing is a mess inside from a pissing rear main. Also whoever put this clutch in wasn't afraid of greasing stuff, the throwout bearing and pilot bushing have a LOT of grease on them. This motor/clutch only has about 25-30K on it but i'm putting in a new clutch anyways.
The removable trans tunnel mod is sweet.
Some of that goo in the bellhousing is the grease that got slung from the throwout bearing.
I dropped the oil pan to find this sweet surprise. Fancy one piece gasket slathered in silicone all over on both sides. No wonder it was leaking.
I did learn I have a 4 bolt main block.
I hope I can get it all back together tomorrow, ran out of time today. The local O'reilly's had the new gasket and main seal i needed in stock so that was good too.
The removable trans tunnel mod is sweet.
Some of that goo in the bellhousing is the grease that got slung from the throwout bearing.
I dropped the oil pan to find this sweet surprise. Fancy one piece gasket slathered in silicone all over on both sides. No wonder it was leaking.
I did learn I have a 4 bolt main block.
I hope I can get it all back together tomorrow, ran out of time today. The local O'reilly's had the new gasket and main seal i needed in stock so that was good too.
Good progress!!!
But I would be scared to plan on working on my trucks on Easter ....
I still remember painting a cab on Mother's day several years ago. .....
But I would be scared to plan on working on my trucks on Easter ....
I still remember painting a cab on Mother's day several years ago. .....
I knew that you are a good egg!!!!
Thanks for that. I put up a good front sometimes but i'd always rather be covered in grease and up to my armpits in a project. My wife tolerates it usually.
As predicted, still in pieces in the garage.
Got the rear main seal replaced, spent an hour scraping off all that damn silicone before I could put the oil pan back on. Those Felpro snap-up things that hold the pan and gasket while you start the bolts are awesome.
Spent a lot of time cleaning.
Look at this clutch pivot ball please, is it ok to reuse? I tried to find one locally but no joy, this one has grease passages and a zerk on the bellhousing to lube the fork/ball externally.
I put this question up in the "garage" too thinking more eyes would see it there.
Also drilled the threads out of the bellhousing and checked figment eith the trans, it was perfect.
For reference I am using some double ended grade 8 studs to attach the bell to the trans, 1/2-13 one end, 1/2-20 other end, 2-1/4" long. They are going to be just right. I can get a socket on every one of them inside the bell, There isn't a ton of extra room, but they fit. Once i get this pivot ball sorted i'll put it together for real.
Got the rear main seal replaced, spent an hour scraping off all that damn silicone before I could put the oil pan back on. Those Felpro snap-up things that hold the pan and gasket while you start the bolts are awesome.
Spent a lot of time cleaning.
Look at this clutch pivot ball please, is it ok to reuse? I tried to find one locally but no joy, this one has grease passages and a zerk on the bellhousing to lube the fork/ball externally.
I put this question up in the "garage" too thinking more eyes would see it there.
Also drilled the threads out of the bellhousing and checked figment eith the trans, it was perfect.
For reference I am using some double ended grade 8 studs to attach the bell to the trans, 1/2-13 one end, 1/2-20 other end, 2-1/4" long. They are going to be just right. I can get a socket on every one of them inside the bell, There isn't a ton of extra room, but they fit. Once i get this pivot ball sorted i'll put it together for real.
Nice progress!
Got the trans/tcase put together. The Advanced Adapter kit (PN 50-6910) I'm using to mate my long input gear NP205 to the NV4500 came with some all thread studs to assemble it. I tried to loctite them into the tcase and tighten them up just against the adapter with a nut to hold them square and let them sit overnight last night, they didn't take and would have leaked for sure. I found some real studs in town today, 3-1/4" long 3/8 studs, they were perfect. Sealed them into the tcase with a bit of red loctite. I'm using grade "c" all metal lock nuts to hold it all together.
Also set up the ORD twin stick shifter. The rear shift rail to adapter clearance is way tight and the supplied hardware wouldn't fit where it needed to. I wish I had test fit that before i sealed and bolted everything up, it would have been easy to grind/file the adapter without the tcase in the way to have the proper clearance for a regular bolt. The shift rails take a 5/16" bolt. I scrounged a SS socket head cap screw from my bolt bin, chucked it up in my drill press and used it as a poor mans lathe to turn/file the head diameter down til it would fit. I have just enough clearance for the shift rail to move freely and also remove and replace that fastener as needed now.
I had already milled the clearance feature to match the adapter cut out into the NV4500 tail housing. That mod has to be done regardless of the shifter being used with this setup, the shift rail would collide.
Also set up the ORD twin stick shifter. The rear shift rail to adapter clearance is way tight and the supplied hardware wouldn't fit where it needed to. I wish I had test fit that before i sealed and bolted everything up, it would have been easy to grind/file the adapter without the tcase in the way to have the proper clearance for a regular bolt. The shift rails take a 5/16" bolt. I scrounged a SS socket head cap screw from my bolt bin, chucked it up in my drill press and used it as a poor mans lathe to turn/file the head diameter down til it would fit. I have just enough clearance for the shift rail to move freely and also remove and replace that fastener as needed now.
I had already milled the clearance feature to match the adapter cut out into the NV4500 tail housing. That mod has to be done regardless of the shifter being used with this setup, the shift rail would collide.
That part looks familiar 
My favorite for stuff you don't plan on removing again.
It's bolted in. Lots of reassembly to do still but i should be driving it this weekend.
Top access is so nice, I got all the bellhousing bolts from in the cab.
The Harbor Freight trans jack is the bomb. Probably the easiest trans install i've ever done. The adjustment features on it made this a cinch even all by myself, and that trans/tcase assembly is damn heavy.
The plastic LUK throw out bearing is a POS. I broke it trying to get it on the clutch fork.
Here is a PN for the nice all steel National Brand that matches the Luk dimensionally.
Just like I've been told it bolted right into the crossmember and all the holes lined right up, stoked about that.
Both my output yokes are getting speedy sleeves tomorrow, once they are back on i'll fill it up with that liquid gold synthetic fluid I had to buy.
Top access is so nice, I got all the bellhousing bolts from in the cab.
The Harbor Freight trans jack is the bomb. Probably the easiest trans install i've ever done. The adjustment features on it made this a cinch even all by myself, and that trans/tcase assembly is damn heavy.
The plastic LUK throw out bearing is a POS. I broke it trying to get it on the clutch fork.
Here is a PN for the nice all steel National Brand that matches the Luk dimensionally.
Just like I've been told it bolted right into the crossmember and all the holes lined right up, stoked about that.
Both my output yokes are getting speedy sleeves tomorrow, once they are back on i'll fill it up with that liquid gold synthetic fluid I had to buy.
Very cool man! Nice install.
Thanks man.
