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87 TTB K5 - Luxury Prerunner

At least you are ditching the carburetor.

What are you going to do with the other tub?

Martin
 
I sold what I could, and took the frame and what was left to the scrap yard. My buddy is helping me out big time letting me leave and work on it at his shop, and he was getting really antsy having a bunch of stuff there, so I felt obligated to get rid of what I didn't need quickly.

Also, My 208 is in very good condition... What do they sell for? I know they're kind of a dime a dozen
 
This is going to be interesting. Haven't seen many TTB/9-inch setups on this site. Are you going to run 35s or what?
 
I talked to the fabricator this morning - he said normally he'd shoot for 60/40 bump/droop respectively. However, we really want to keep the ride height as low as we can so we may end up with 10/10 or 8/12 bump/droop - hopefully 10/10.

They have a set of the beams built for a bronco they're building. I'll take a pic this weekend and post.

Does anybody know if by using a 241 or atlas the yoke will line up just right with the diff? I guess more specifically are drivers side locations the same between different manufacturers?
 
I don't know about how the 241 will do, but the Atlas will operate at pretty big angles, so you should be fine if you use that. I've seen buggies use Atlases with centered rear outputs and offset Willys style rear axles. Of course it may be different with the long travel of the TTB front. I wonder if you could get an adapter to use a BW transfer case from a Ford TTB truck.

I paid $100 a couple of years back for a 32 spline NP208 that was in working condition. I would think you could get at least that much.
 
These are a set of the beams. They increase track width I believe 6-8". The pivots will be uniballs.
averese3.jpg
ryve9ese.jpg
 
Unfortunately I have very little time right now :/. What I will have into the beams will be less than most guys have into their linked D60s - probably $3k with a custom crossmember and steering linkage.

I do however plan to run 2.5" coilovers and 3" bypasses, so I will have a few g's in shocks probably. Need to start saving for that... Ugh
 
Man those look like something on a desert racer for real. Wow. I was picturing just a trussed D44 TTB setup. Those are awesome. What kind of travel are you expecting to get? 20"?
 
4 link with cantilever setup. We will probably tub it - gonna shoot for 24" in the rear. Unfortunately it will be a semi slow build
 
This is gonna be cool. You may start a new trend on CK5. :pimp:

I've always wanted to do a similar build, but there's no desert within 2,500 miles of me. I used to have an Isuzu Trooper that I would drive real fast on dirt roads around middle GA, but after running several people off the narrow roads and getting run into by a bear, I had to sell the Trooper and slow down. Just a side note.
 
4 link with cantilever setup. We will probably tub it - gonna shoot for 24" in the rear. Unfortunately it will be a semi slow build

Awesome.

I'm currently working on a wishbone rear for a buddy. Will be curious to see how this all works out. Take a lot of pics please :D :popcorn:
 
So I need some suggestions on Transfer Case options... keep in mind I will not be crawling in it, so low gear usage will be slim-to-none, and 4wd will not be used frequently - I will occasionally drive in the snow on ski trips, and will use when/if I get stuck.

So I have a few options the way I see it...

1. Atlas II or similar - I imagine this will cost me around $2600
2. BW1356 with Advanced adapter to mate to 700r4 - I can get the tcase with a fixed rear yoke. If I buy a reman Tcase and the adapter I will be at $1100ish.
3. NP241 with Drivers side drop, and SYE kit. Again, with a reman this will be about $1100ish.

Also, options 2 and 3 I assume can be done for less if I find a decent junkyard Tcase - I'm just a little leary of that option as I'm basically building the truck from scratch and everything will be new. The Atlas is obviously the best of the 3 options and I can afford it, it's just $1500 that I can spend on other parts of the build that I will probably get more value out of. Let me know if there's another obvious option I'm not considering here.
 
I think you can find an NP241 for way less than that. What about a Ford NP205? I think they're pretty rare though. If you can afford the Atlas, you can't go wrong with it, but since you're not going to be using the 4wd that much and the low range hardly ever, I can't see spending that much on it. If it were me, I would see if an NP241, NP271 or even a Jeep t case would have the right amount of u joint angle to work.
 

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