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88 K5 Diesel - Tranny/Trans Adapter Install

Well, finally got the dash done. Took longer than I thought but wanted it just right. This is probably too many pics but hey, I think it looks pretty. :woot:









And best yet, everything functions properly!



 
Looks awesome!

In case I missed it, what are you doing for heat?

Sorry should have mentioned that. There are 6 switches below the CB covering driving lights, interior lights, aux lights, blower, OBA, and high idle.

The HVAC is now fixed config split between defrost and floor, full heat. The blower switch hits the blower at a medium speed.

Top's off all summer so no need, and in the winter when I'm wheeling (only time I drive this thing) I can turn the window down a bit if it gets hot. From past experience though, when we go snow plowing I spend enough time rescuing people that I don't ever turn the heat down. :haha:

Oh, the two push buttons on the right are manual glows (top) and starter (bottom). The little toggle beside the CB mic is for the rear window.
 
Small update. Got the BW cut outs on yesterday, looks good and more tire clearance. I'm going to put some new slightly longer shackles on the rear of the front springs to even it out a bit. Have to play on the ramp to see what my clearance looks like. One problem, had to remove my coveted 6.2 diesel tags to mount the flares. Brought a tear to my eye. Have to find a new place to put them, no way they're not going back on!



...still have to get my shocks put on. Trying to get two other buddies' trucks done at the same time though.

Got the hydro assist ram bolted up yesterday too FINALLY. Didn't even realize how much it was actually going to make a difference. Before, absolutely battling to turn those grapplers at a stand still. After, one finger. Great upgrade for the money!
 
Well, my buddy picked up my shock tabs for me then took his truck to the shop to get some work done (cherokee, not a real truck that he'd want to work on himself - diesel though) with the tabs in it. Looks like shocks wait until Monday.

Looking at the front I didn't like the angle on my front shackles now that I've dropped the hangers. The original shackles measure around 4.5" center to center so thought I'd add an inch to even it out a bit.

Cut these out of 3/8", about 5.5" on center.



Angle looks much better IMO. Here's the drivers side.



Passenger side.



Wheel looks better in the fender now I think.



Now back to figuring out where to relocate the 'Diesel' badge since the fenders forced a move...
 
Looking solid man! Gonna be ready to come wheeling in the fall?

Without a doubt! Got started on the shocks today until a slip of the hand while tacking led to full welding a crooked mount, followed by 20 minutes of "$@%!$%!!!" then an hour of staring and "hmmm... well maybe... uhhh...." followed by 90 minutes of making it work. After that we called it off to finish tomorrow.

I've got it booked in to have the cross feed for the turbo done on Friday and it looks like we're going to camp at Ghost Lake for the weekend and head out for some shake down runs at Waiparous on Saturday. Fingers crossed.

As long as everything runs good I've got a few minor things to wrap up and she's good to go! Coming to the south half any time soon?
 
Well haven't updated in the middle, but got the shocks put in and just had to get out and shake it down a bit. The shocks I've got on right now are 12" travel Zone ORs. Definitely not valved stiff enough for the blazer. On the trail they were great, but on the hwy... yikes!

I'm thinking Bilstein 5125s, but would appreciate any input. Listed valving is at 255/70. I have no idea what that means or how it will effect the suspension characteristic, so help would be greatly appreciated!

Rear mounting was real straight forward. Used the existing upper pin, put some new mounts on to the axle for the lower.



Front was a little different story, but we solved that with some mini shock hoops off the frame rail. Little tight getting them in and preserving the inner fenders, but here we go.

Driver's side



Passenger side



I might have mixed those up...

On the plus side, loving how this thing rolls on the trail now! The 3spd 465 is well, shall we say not fun, on the hwy or in town. On the trail it's nice though, and isn't that what we're going for here? First gear, let it ride, powers through everything. Aaaand only in 2wd. I actually didn't have the option. Friday night when I went to hook up my front ds I realized I had a bit of a problem. The damn yoke doesn't have the locating tabs on it. Anybody seen this before? :dunno: We were stumped. I'm thinking in lieu of getting a new yoke before I want to swap it to a 1410 front, those billet ujoint caps will do the job for the time being. Going to see about picking some up tomorrow.



No action pics unfortunately, little tough with only the two of us in one vehicle (and I really just wanted to drive around without stopping). Have a few more minor wiring issues to finish up, seal the leak at the tcase adapter on the back of the tranny, but nothing major. Next week hopefully 4wd and a little more advanced fun!



 
I cant say I have seen a yoke with no locating tabs that were not busted off,but yours sure looks to have never had any...:confused:

Maybe you could use a u-joint with the inner lock ring clips and leave the clips on,and they would keep the caps from walking off??..:dunno:
 
I cant say I have seen a yoke with no locating tabs that were not busted off,but yours sure looks to have never had any...:confused:

Maybe you could use a u-joint with the inner lock ring clips and leave the clips on,and they would keep the caps from walking off??..:dunno:

You know what it never occurred to me, but I bought a 1310 to replace the old one from the front ds and it had the inner lock rings. Didn't cross my mind that I could use the same to keep that inside the yoke. :doah:

Still, weird...

Was looking over the last bit, I should be able to pick up a 1310 yoke for around $40, but where the ujoint installs in the ds it needs the inner lock rings anyway. Might as well just get the correct ujoint and call it a day.

More to come.
 
Ok it all makes sense now. Stopped by Pat's driveline looking for the 1310. Turned out it's actually a Dodge 7260 joint. :doah:

Today going to do some clearancing to see if I can get the angles, worst case Pat's said they could put a high angle one together for me pretty quick for around $550. Stupid expensive truck...

Learned one more thing today. Stopped by the 4wp shop to check my suspension for interference on their loading ramp. The good news, no binding and it actually flexes really well! The bad news, is when it flexes hard the frame torques a bit, and my clutch adjustment pin is a little too short (was a touch loose but workable) so under full flex it won't disengage the clutch. Going to run it out and replace it with some threaded road and jam nuts here right away, then try again lol
 
Shock-wise, im a big fan of the Bilstein 5125's.

I ran the 14" travel versions on my K5, and loved them.
Chris now runs them on his Snowball Jeep.

I currently run the 12" versions on my Tundra and LOVE THEM. (See sig)
They just DONT fade...
 
Shock-wise, im a big fan of the Bilstein 5125's.

I ran the 14" travel versions on my K5, and loved them.
Chris now runs them on his Snowball Jeep.

I currently run the 12" versions on my Tundra and LOVE THEM. (See sig)
They just DONT fade...

They're the ones I was looking at, also noticed they're the 'upgraded' ones spec'd on ORD's lifts. I'm thinking too about RS9000XLs. They're a little pricier but have a couple friends running them and really like them. The adjustability gives a little peace of mind instead of crossing my fingers and hoping I like the valving.

I think the 5125s only come in the one valving setting, only thing I'm not sure of.

Realistically I've got to get the front ds worked out (grinder's coming out tonight) and a few minor things before I'm toooooo worried about the shocks. But they're getting swapped in the next few weeks. When it's bouncing enough I see people changing lanes to get the hell away from my truck, I know it's time. :whistle:
 
Start looking for a hydraulic clutch setup now.....

Martin

Nah I'm going to make the mech linkage work. I chose it on purpose. I'll change out the adjuster and do it that way (hopefully). On the trail, if I'm still in a forward gear it's better than not being able to move I suppose.

This is what I say now. You can remind me of this post when you see the one that says "so I got stuck on this thing and spent the night sleeping in the blazer..." lol
 
Not having a clutch pedal can be dangerous, it's your choice.

Martin
 
They're the ones I was looking at, also noticed they're the 'upgraded' ones spec'd on ORD's lifts. I'm thinking too about RS9000XLs. They're a little pricier but have a couple friends running them and really like them. The adjustability gives a little peace of mind instead of crossing my fingers and hoping I like the valving.

I think the 5125s only come in the one valving setting, only thing I'm not sure of.

Realistically I've got to get the front ds worked out (grinder's coming out tonight) and a few minor things before I'm toooooo worried about the shocks. But they're getting swapped in the next few weeks. When it's bouncing enough I see people changing lanes to get the hell away from my truck, I know it's time. :whistle:


I believe the bilsteins come in a number of different valvings,
But it has been a while... :dunno:
 

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