89 K5 - "Butch" Build Thread #K54FUN

[sreidmx]

Hey there... I've been off-line for a while regarding this build. I'll work on an update. I made a switch box and wiring system, added a truck tailgate and just put in a roll cage. Building 1-ton's right now...

Bout dang time! We thought you fell off the face of the planet!

 

[nvrenuf]

I'm curious, why 2 latches (for the closed position) on the tire carrier?

 

[cesandvik]

I'm curious, why 2 latches (for the closed position) on the tire carrier?

haha... yeah, I'm curious about that one too... Actually, I was concerned about the latch holding so i put the pop pin on for extra "dead bolt" type approach. What ended up being nice about it is I can leave it unlatched when camping or stopped for lunch and just close the carrier to the pop pin. Just makes it kinda simple. Only problem is making sure I remember to latch it closed or the first good bounce/flex and the gate swings open. I may have gone through a couple pop pins on the hinge over that mistake....

 

[nvrenuf]

Do you like the red handled latch? My wife's Jeep has a drop pin on her tire carrier and it rattles HORRIBLY. I've tried tightening it with a rubber bumper but when I get it tight enough to stop the rattle she can't easily open it.

 

[cesandvik]

Do you like the red handled latch? My wife's Jeep has a drop pin on her tire carrier and it rattles HORRIBLY. I've tried tightening it with a rubber bumper but when I get it tight enough to stop the rattle she can't easily open it.

Yes, the latch works perfectly, actually better than I expected. I have the angle right so it pulls down and in against a bump stop of angle iron welded behind the "block" the latch is mounted on and the bumper. I highly recommend it. It is one of the latches that has a locking mechanism to prevent it from penting without unlocking it. That I purchased separately, most carrier starter kits don't come with this specific latch:
http://www.comp4x4.com/LATCH-KIT-De-Sta-Co-U-Bolt-Arm-Double-Locking-Horizontal-Clamp-Latch.html.
I thought the location would be exposed to getting stuck on stuff or smacked (after the fact) but it has yet to get knocked off. my fall back is a ratchet strap as contingency...

 

[cesandvik]

Wow, it's been a while. I need to sit my lazy butt down and get caught up on the build thread... Currently, almost done collecting parts to build a Dana 60 and 14FF with a TMC shave kit.
Recent projects:

• Hydroboost break conversion: Best damn thing ever!
• Cooler/gear drawer (over tailgate extension)
• Trans Cooler. and Power steering cooler.
• Auxiliary power distribution, switch panel and lots of lights!
• DIY4X roll cage
• Onboard Air compressor

I've gotta get to posting... Hope all is well!

 

[cesandvik]

Having a little fun in Big Bear, CA

 

[cesandvik]

So, I'm no mechanic or fabricator, but I'm learning... I finally got motivated to start breaking down this rusty, crusty 14B FF and start my build. While the fluid was cooked, the spindles look good and all the bearings are still running smooth (now will be spares for the trail box) It's going to end up with a TMR Customs 15 bolt "shave", Yukon mechanical locker, Yukon carrier, internals and 4:56's all new. If I find some money, I may go new axles too, but the stock ones look pretty good for now. Then, on to the D60.

 

[cesandvik]

I finally got the courage to cut up the 14FF for the shave kit. Currently in CO to visit family and missing the K5, especially after spending a week in Buena Vista! I was itching to wheel. What amazing country, beauty and people in CO. Anyway, I’m looking forward to getting the shave kit welded in and the build into full steam when I get home.

 

[cesandvik]

While I’m online and having coffee, I thought I’d post some pics of the electrical distribution and switch box I made. The goal was to have a quick way to connect new powered items and an organized fuse/relay system. Two busman boxes has enabled 10 switched/relayed points and 10 more fused sources, all easily accessible for checking and/or replacing fuses if blown.
Baseline for this system and wiring was from this article:
http://www.bodenzord.com/archives/473
Plenty of USB outlets and switched power pole plugins for worklights for those camp setups or trail fixes...
It’s been in for 18 months and has made adding new devices, such as a ham radio, a simple plug and play.

 

[Truckman4life]

That's some clean electrical work there. Nice job!

 

[Scribbles]

Love the switch button! Awesome work!

 

[Fastereddie]

That switch console is awesome.

 

[nvrenuf]

Dang!

 

[cesandvik]

Hydroboost!!!! Another catchup post while I’m lazing around in Colorado on vacation.
When in CO last summer, I couldn’t stop on a downhill as the brakes just were not there. They’ve been week before, but this time it was scary. Hydroboost upgrade was in order!!!
I decided to go all new parts and since I have an 89, I bought all 89 Diesel Blazer components, making it easy. The tricky part was getting the piston rod, spring and retainer clip as it needed to be off a donor, so I had to source a donor as those parts were not available to buy.
Main parts:

• Hydroboost brake pedal (eBay)
• Master calendar
• Brake Booster
• PS oil cooler
• All new hoses for Hydro System
• Misc plumbing items for low pressure lines.

Note: I plan to upgrade pump to PSC assist soon, so I did not update the pump to a hydroboost pump with additional return line. I made a T fitting and it’s been working well.

Oh, and while I was at it, I put on my DIY4X B-52s so I could measure for new springs. Those are on order at Deaver and can’t wait to pick them up in a few weeks.

Some new epoxy behind the grill on the core support bled out the systems (PS and Brakes) and I could lock up all four wheels for the first time, I think ever!

Useful links:
Hydroboost conversion links:
https://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/s...ake=1088&ukey_model=15787&ukey_category=22609
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/illustrated-hydroboost-swap.306221/
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=701079
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/137837-GM-hydro-boost-brakes-for-newbies-like-me

Pump install/bleed instructions: http://www.rockauto.com/info/Atsco/220296 General PS Pump Installation Instructions.pdf
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT 52-0001.pdf

Brake components (system)
https://www.tonkinonlineparts.com/s...ake=1088&ukey_model=15787&ukey_category=22609

Pushrod & spring
http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/hydroboost.html

 

[cesandvik]

Aux Trans cooler!!!
Six years ago, I had my 700r4 rebuilt. Well, it only had ~15k on it and the rear planetary went out, hosing everything. So, it was rebuilt again this past spring. I added a trans temp gauge and magtech pan this time, and realized how hot this thing was running with the stock trans cooler. Went on Mohave Trail and driving out there, it got over 250 degrees in some highway traffic and a couple times on the trail. NOT HAPPY! I upgraded old hard lines to 8AN braided lines from the trans and without ever turning on the new cooler fans, the temp stays around 180 in normal driving and under 200 (with fans on) in heavy wheeling on hot so cal days. I wired an in-line thermostat... the first one was doa and the second lasted two weeks. I had installed an override “off” switch so now I just use that to manually turn on the fans. It works pretty good and hope not to kill another 700r4 in so few miles. Really, I’m prettt nice to it on the trail, really!!!

 

[cesandvik]

Cooler/toolbox drawer - Another quick update in the build.
I bought a large ARTIC cooler and figured I’m too damn lazy to pull that thing in and out of my truck when camping, so I made something custom (as my wife laughs at me...).
It mounts to my L-track in the floor so it’s made to remove quickly, if needed. The 36” full extension locking hinges were the majority cost at about $135 but the rest was scrap angle iron/flat stock and new peice expanded steel for the bottom. It’s actually one of the best adds for easy access to tools and/or food/beverages on long or short trips!

 

[cesandvik]

I like Hacks. If you’ve got a softopper, it can be a pain to deal with the rear window support / tensioning bar being too long if you want to roll it up “inside” the roof. You can take the screws out to make it adjustable w/ two internal sliding poles to the main pole. They get stuck on the inside and that’s a pain. I added some button pins into the poles and they lock in position when extended but can collapse easy to roll the original screws used to keep the small poles from sliding inside the main pole.

 

[beags86]

Time for a :

Cool build I like it.

 

[cesandvik]

Ready to start assembly... 14ff with Shave and Truss.