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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Been working on sliders with some steps incorporated. The truck is a couple inches taller than I intended; taller than the General was. So it's big stretch to get in.

Started out by cutting out the rocker on the passenger side. I cut just below the first body line of the rocker, where it is protruding out the furthest.

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Same place I cut on the General and it is the perfect for keeping the doors unmodified.

You can see in the pictures above where the pillar supports come down in to the rockers. I don't want to cut those out, so I have to notch the slider tube.

On the General I used 2"x3" orientated with the 2" on the sides and 3" across the top/bottom. On the crewcab I was hoping to gain some protection for the saddle tanks so I opted for 3"x3" tube. It's 3/16" wall.

Here you can see the notches:

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In the last picture you can also see I notched the front to clear the bottom bolt for the fender. On the General I cut that part of the fender off and welded the fender to the slider. Ultimately this didn't work and the fender just tore off the slider. So I wanted to do it differently on this truck.

I didn't think I should leave the notches open so I used the pieces I cut out to flip around and weld in to close up the openings. I figure this keeps the dirt out and helps maintain structural integrity.

I added round tube to the sliders. Had similar round tube extensions on the General and found they worked great for protecting the doors from getting caved in. They also really help for stepping into the truck. As I mentioned, with the truck being taller I wanted to make a step that was lower than the round tube for the benefit of my wife.

I used some 3" wide flat strap and bent both ends up about 45°. Then notched the round tube for the flat strap.

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Then welded the flat strap in

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Doing a step for both front and back doors.

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Both steps welded in and ground down smooth on the outer edges.

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I have great luck using skateboard deck tape for traction on steps. After I paint the sliders, I'll lay some grip tape on the steps.

Still need to build the driver side slider. Plan is to weld this completed one in this weekend, work on the driver side next week and weld it in that following weekend. Luckily now that I have the passenger side done, I know what I need to do with the second side done so it should go a little quicker.

Thought it was interesting how much dirt came out of the rockers. And yes the scissors too! They had fallen through the back cab corner into the rocker.

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Thanks! They are a lot of work but I think they will be worth it.
 
Okay, got em welded in. Drilled some 5/16" holes to plug weld. I also ran several 1" beads on the backside. It's hard to get a good weld between the edge of the old rocker and the slider. Forgot to get pictures of the backside.

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The outside edge is fully welded on the full length.

I thought painting them body color would be cool but I didn't think about footprints. So I may add a coat or 2 of black.
 
Any plans to carry the sliders back on to the box?
 
How close does it get to the saddle tanks. ? And are you gonna do any thing further back down the bedside? That's one of the problems I had which is why I went the way I did with my sliders.
 
I thought painting them body color would be cool but I didn't think about footprints. So I may add a coat or 2 of black.

A) Those look great!

B) Keep them that color, buy the "sandpaper" type stuff for skateboards and stick it on where people will step. Traction, durability and color contrast :pimp:
 
A) Those look great!

B) Keep them that color, buy the "sandpaper" type stuff for skateboards and stick it on where people will step. Traction, durability and color contrast :pimp:
Thanks! I do plan to use the skateboard grip tape regardless of color. Unfortunately the color is kind of a point of contention between the wife and I. So I may concede defeat and go black just to choose my battles so to speak. :whistle:

My biggest irritation is that the person who painted the truck white used FLAT white spray paint. As soon as dirt touches it, it just stays there and looks dingy. It really should be a satin white, but I don't feel like painting the whole truck right now. When I have time after Blazer Bash I think I'll probably put the truck in the booth and lay down a coat of satin white on everything.

So that's my other thought for going black is that I don't care for the FLAT white.

How close does it get to the saddle tanks. ? And are you gonna do any thing further back down the bedside? That's one of the problems I had which is why I went the way I did with my sliders.

Any plans to carry the sliders back on to the box?

I will grab a picture later, but unfortunately the aren't going to protect the saddle tanks as much as I'd hoped. On this first side, the passenger side, the tank still has the thick plastic skid pan under the tank. So with that installed, the tank is probably hanging down a good 2"; 1" of that being the plastic skid pan hanging down below the tank.

Looking at it laterally, there's about 3" between the sliders and the tank. It's the same as there was with the factory rockers because I used the backside of the rockers as a backstop.

I do plan to put sliders on the bed as well. Those will take as much work, if not more. I'll need to add some support bracing since there's really not much there as far as the body panel is concerned. I will also be nice to have the round tube extensions back there making it easier to reach into the bed. But this is one of those things that will probably have to wait until after Blazer Bash.

I've also pretty much decided I'm not keeping the saddle tanks. I had thought about it, because of the extra fuel capacity. However the more things I do the more those tanks seem to be in the way. Beside the fact the passenger side tank needs to be fixed. Or the tank selector set up needs fixed.
 
I've also pretty much decided I'm not keeping the saddle tanks. I had thought about it, because of the extra fuel capacity. However the more things I do the more those tanks seem to be in the way. Beside the fact the passenger side tank needs to be fixed. Or the tank selector set up needs fixed.
ah crap don't do that!
I need at least a few other people keeping them to keep the ideas flowing.
I agree though especially after making the sliders for my k5 and then the ones on my truck. it was so easy to weld to the body and just run tubes straight down to the frame for support.

I don't know. I think i'll wait until I really hammer one or destroy the lower part of the rocker before I decide to trim it up and move the slider up into the body like yours
 
I'm contemplating making a simple, 1/8" thick, steel skid plates for the saddle tanks. I have a set of dimple dies I could use to make them more rigid.

If I ever get to the point of having a full cage tied to the frame, then I can look at some sort of stronger plate tied into the frame and the welded in sliders.

The big issue is that I just don't know how I'm going to end up using this truck, trail wise. I don't plan to do the most difficult trails I did in the General, but there are some others I definitely want to do that would be considered difficult. That's why my thing has always been to just get it out on the trail and start using it so I can figure out what I need to do.

One of the biggest things I keep wondering about is how much risk the saddle tanks are really in.
 
I'm contemplating making a simple, 1/8" thick, steel skid plates for the saddle tanks. I have a set of dimple dies I could use to make them more rigid.

If I ever get to the point of having a full cage tied to the frame, then I can look at some sort of stronger plate tied into the frame and the welded in sliders.

The big issue is that I just don't know how I'm going to end up using this truck, trail wise. I don't plan to do the most difficult trails I did in the General, but there are some others I definitely want to do that would be considered difficult. That's why my thing has always been to just get it out on the trail and start using it so I can figure out what I need to do.

One of the biggest things I keep wondering about is how much risk the saddle tanks are really in.
I don't think its anything that would catch you surprise.
by the time a rock was big enough to reach up and catch the tank, you would see it and move it towards the tire so with good tire placement you'd be ok...


of course its never the rocks we see that cause the problems right :thumb:
 
When I bought the truck the vent window on the driver side door was missing. I must have been gone a little while because the floor has some rust:

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It's mostly in tact, but thin in some areas with a few pin holes. I'm curious what others think would be appropriate to do.

I'm mostly thinking about just painting with some rust encapsulating paint and calling it good.

Thoughts?
 
I don't think its anything that would catch you surprise.
by the time a rock was big enough to reach up and catch the tank, you would see it and move it towards the tire so with good tire placement you'd be ok...


of course its never the rocks we see that cause the problems right :thumb:
That's kinda what I'm thinking. It's not like I don't know the tank is hanging there.
 
That's kinda what I'm thinking. It's not like I don't know the tank is hanging there.

I ran my sliders to the frame behind the tank. Only protects the tank from side hits. My tanks have factory steel skids on them. They are THRASHED, tanks have gotten several gallons smaller :doah: but they hold gas! :thumb:
 
As long as it will do that, I can handle dents.

My sliders are only angle iron welded to the cab up front, big rubber mounts in the center of the front spring hanger in the back with a tube run to the slider, put them together in a big hurry before my first trip to Moab, when/if I re build them I will make them way stronger and tied to the frame up front. FUBARED the cab on Rocker Knocker the last several times I've been on it.
 
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