CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
For a simple distributor replacement just take note of the direction the rotor is pointing and the location on the cap that the #1 spark plug is set to.

Remove old dist. insert new one making the rotor point the same place it was, hookup wires in correct firing order with #1 in the same spot it was previously.

Done deal. No need to pull plugs or look at anything. It's a mechanical thing it doesn't know you pulled something out and put something new in.
 
The motor doesn't need to be at #1 either...hell, it doesn't matter where in the stroke it is as long as the rotor is pointing in the same exact place when the new dist is in you're gold. Bear in mind as you pull the distributor out the rotor will turn slightly as it comes off the cam gear. You'll have to guesstimate that small amount of rotation as you drop in the new distributor.

Easy peasy.

The only other thing is getting the end of the dist to properly engage the oil pump shaft. If everything looks cool but the distributor didn't drop all the way just bump the starter til it does drop down.
 
The motor doesn't need to be at #1 either...hell, it doesn't matter where in the stroke it is as long as the rotor is pointing in the same exact place when the new dist is in you're gold. Bear in mind as you pull the distributor out the rotor will turn slightly as it comes off the cam gear. You'll have to guesstimate that small amount of rotation as you drop in the new distributor.

Easy peasy.

The only other thing is getting the end of the dist to properly engage the oil pump shaft. If everything looks cool but the distributor didn't drop all the way just bump the starter til it does drop down.

Good advice there. I usually put a mark on the intake near the dizzy to where the rotor is pointing and then I slowly pull the dizzy and try to mark where it is pointing at the top to give me a guide on first contact and full insertion.
 
Well we got it done, thanks for all the advice. We were able to lay a sharpie marker on the rotor to make a mark on the firewall (that's painted yellow) and that worked perfect. Once we had the timing light on the motor, we found we even got the timing back exactly where I had it with the original distributor.

So the truck started. I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see what happens.
 
We checked it when we were done and it ended up right where I had it before so we left it alone.

I gotta say, it's a real bitch to get to the distributor hold down bolt on these TBI motors. Fuel lines are in just the right place to be in the way.
 
The one I have is shaped kinda like a Z and it doesn't work. The one you linked with the little zig-zag in it would probably work for this.
 
1000 miles later and the truck ran great for the entire trip.

At the Golden Crack:
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Do have a couple of concerns. Seem to be having a camber issue on the front axle and it's messing up my tires. The rear axle is damp where the axle tube goes into the housing on the passenger side. It's not dripping or anything, just has a film that dirt is sticking to.
 
What I'd like to do is find a newer 14 with factory disc so I can set up the e-brake. Maybe I should weld the tubes on that one if/when I get it.
 
How are the tires wearing?
Inside of the tires have 1/2 the tread compared to the outside.
Might need to check those wheel bearings again.
The tire wear was part of the reason I did the wheel bearings before the trip in the first place. Next step is going to be checking the king pins and bottom bearings. So that will have me looking at the wheel bearings again anyway.
 
I often see toe out cause more tire wear issues than camber, especially on a solid axle rig.
 
Just before Blazer Bash I changed my headlights to the Hella H4 halogen replaceable bulbs. I also did the relay conversion. When I did this in my K5, I just thru the relays into the factory wiring. However this time I was thinking about how the wiring for the passenger side light goes thru the driver side light first. I decided it would work better if I wired the passenger light straight thru.

I went down to the junkyard and pulled a passenger side headlight plug and as much wire as I could get too. I cut the factory green and tan wires in the headlight harness and I also cut the wires for the passenger headlight where they leave the driver side plug. I removed the factory driver plug all together and replaced it with the passenger plug I removed from the junkyard. This allowed me to put the driver and passenger headlights on separate circuits.

This is how I wired it:

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The hi-beam circuits use 15A fuses figuring 100W÷12V=8.333A so I added a little for the fuses. The lo-beam circuits use 10A fuses figuring 55W÷12V=4.6A plus a little extra. Would have done lower but I don't have anything between 5 and 10 amps.

I haven't had a chance to really try them out yet. My headlights before really stunk so this should be a huge improvement.
 
Here's a pic of the leak from the axle tube:

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Is this unusual? I thought of it today because I could smell gear oil when I walked behind the truck. I can also see gear oil splatters on the rear bumper. Is this why people weld axle tubes?
 
Here's a pic of the leak from the axle tube:

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Is this unusual? I thought of it today because I could smell gear oil when I walked behind the truck. I can also see gear oil splatters on the rear bumper. Is this why people weld axle tubes?

Not unusual at all, it's a symptom of a loose axle tube which is why people weld the tubes. Mine broke loose on "The Trifecta" several years ago, expertly trail repaired by James Watson. :bow::bow::bow:
 

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