That makes sense, damn thing looks brand new on the inside where it matters.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I need to do that, like all over my truck...
Looks good!
Looks good!
Lol! I will be using that technique on our new 77 as well... it is all smashed up!
The ball trick works good, i've done it before too!
Interesting. never would have thought of that.
Just be sure to use low air pressure. First attempt I blew the ball up, as in exploded....loudly. occurred to me it probably wasn't rated for 150psi!
used that technique on a friends Toyota, I'd imagine that was a lot easier than a squarebody.
Just be sure to use low air pressure. First attempt I blew the ball up, as in exploded....loudly. occurred to me it probably wasn't rated for 150psi!
That's epic!
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Yep you need to have extra balls available, big ones little ones odd shapes etc.That's epic!
Guess you could say it takes a lot of balls to fix a dent like that...
Back to rear driveshaft news. I thought I had it all figured out. Bought a new 1350 flange yoke that comes with centering ball. Took the double cardan apart and noticed the new flange yoke looked different, smaller even. Figured out I have a 1410 double cardan.
I feel like a moron not even knowing what I bought for my own driveshaft.
We discussed it being a CV but never specifically the size. I didn't even know they made a 1410 double cardan.
So now I gotta find a different flange yoke.
I feel like a moron not even knowing what I bought for my own driveshaft.
We discussed it being a CV but never specifically the size. I didn't even know they made a 1410 double cardan.So now I gotta find a different flange yoke.
doh!
That's a hebby dooty driveshaft!
It turns out they don't sell parts for 1410 double cardan yet, just the complete assembly for $275. However I was able to order a new centering ball kit.
It was a pain to remove the race for the ball. We figured out after the fact there was a little pin through the race and side of the cavity. You can see the little hole below:
Put the race and ball in the freezer and the yoke in boiling water. Found a perfect size socket to drive the race in without damaging the ball. After there ball & race there's a little oil seal that seals the ball.
The center of the ball has little vertical needle bearings just like a u-joint cap. It comes with a little cardboard tube that holds them in until finally assembly on the stud.
I was fortunate to have a 1410 slip yoke from the rear shaft in my old K5 that was the same yoke I destroyed on this new shaft. So that was easy to replace, and free.
Once I had the driveshaft all together, I crawled under the truck to start with the install. This was the first time I had been under there since the shaft fell out. Unfortunately I found more damage that will set me back.
First the yoke is busted up. The little tab that helps retain the u-joint cap is busted off. I also think some other parts of the yoke are broken off but it's to tell for sure.
I noticed the half of the drive shaft that attached to the transfer case isn't running centered up between the frame like it was when I installed. Figured out why:
Not surprisingly, the exhaust took a little beating:
I think I can use the metal bracket for the center support from my first drive shaft to replace the bent up bracket. Luckily I also have another yoke for the pinion. It's a 1350, but that will actually be better I think. It will give me a little more clearance and since the pinion points up for the CV it doesn't need the angle capability the 1410 provides.
So I took a few steps forward and then got pushed back a few steps.
It was a pain to remove the race for the ball. We figured out after the fact there was a little pin through the race and side of the cavity. You can see the little hole below:
Put the race and ball in the freezer and the yoke in boiling water. Found a perfect size socket to drive the race in without damaging the ball. After there ball & race there's a little oil seal that seals the ball.
The center of the ball has little vertical needle bearings just like a u-joint cap. It comes with a little cardboard tube that holds them in until finally assembly on the stud.
I was fortunate to have a 1410 slip yoke from the rear shaft in my old K5 that was the same yoke I destroyed on this new shaft. So that was easy to replace, and free.
Once I had the driveshaft all together, I crawled under the truck to start with the install. This was the first time I had been under there since the shaft fell out. Unfortunately I found more damage that will set me back.
First the yoke is busted up. The little tab that helps retain the u-joint cap is busted off. I also think some other parts of the yoke are broken off but it's to tell for sure.
I noticed the half of the drive shaft that attached to the transfer case isn't running centered up between the frame like it was when I installed. Figured out why:
Not surprisingly, the exhaust took a little beating:
I think I can use the metal bracket for the center support from my first drive shaft to replace the bent up bracket. Luckily I also have another yoke for the pinion. It's a 1350, but that will actually be better I think. It will give me a little more clearance and since the pinion points up for the CV it doesn't need the angle capability the 1410 provides.
So I took a few steps forward and then got pushed back a few steps.
I thought mods had some super power that prevented things like this from happening?
Unfortunately that only works when the installer remembers to go back and double check those mods after a few hundred miles....
I suspect that the little nubbin that holds the u-joint in the Axle yoke broke off first and that is what caused the flinging driveshaft. Been there done that, didn't finish the race because of the same thing.
Did the same thing again on Upper Heldorado several months later. As much as I hate Pinion shovels I really need and want to install one because of damaging yokes. Or you could buy a billet machined yoke but I'm still not convinced that's going to stop the problem.
The yoke saw some abuse in the K5 long before being in this truck. I have thought a lot about running a pinion shovel as well after spending too much on rear driveshafts recently.
My pinion guard has saved my butt so many times, I'm sure it's paid for itself by now.
