Just means we need to check TDC the fun way
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
Finger over the spark plug hole?
Love you too buddy
Opened presents with half the family today. Got something to add to my air system. 
And a key chain to match the hood ornament
Key chain is cool
Well the 2 steps forward, 1 step back tend is continuing. Got the driveshaft and new yoke installed successfully. Went to go for a test drive and almost didn't get the trick to start.
Had to crank with the throttle partially depressed before it would finally fire. Then it would barely run at more than an idle. If I tried to accelerate, the motor just sputtered and stumbled. It finally improved once the motor warmed up. However it was still running rough.
I think the problem is the truck was in the shop and saw the 454 and it's ready to be rid of the tired old 350.
Speaking of the "new" motor, it's a good thing I pulled the oil pump.
View attachment 220819
I know it's not super critical but it's still best not to have plastic pieces hanging around in the motor.
That is typical for a Chevy. That is why I installed one of these on my new 350 crate engine (and all the Chevy engines I have built).
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I have a question on your driveshaft you got from High Angle Drive Line. The splined yoke that the splined flange slips onto it, and is bolted on..does High Angle make that piece as a regular item for sale, or is it custom made, and how much did it cost?
Yes, I did get something similar as well.That is typical for a Chevy. That is why I installed one of these on my new 350 crate engine (and all the Chevy engines I have built).
I'm not certain. I did find through my searching for repair parts for the CV the flange matches up to Dodge trucks, 2500 and/or 3500 models. So it's possible the flange in the picture is for the front output that would bolt to the transfer case in one of those Dodges.I have a question on your driveshaft you got from High Angle Drive Line. The splined yoke that the splined flange slips onto it, and is bolted on..does High Angle make that piece as a regular item for sale, or is it custom made, and how much did it cost?
This is the only part I noticed is engraved with the company name, so that would make me think it might be something he makes in-house. I don't know if he sells them separately. Jess @ High Angle Driveline is definitely one of those guys you have to just call. The website doesn't do much for specific information.
The entire driveshaft set me back $900. I struggled with the cost but in the end decided it would be worth the investment in the long run considering I had spent that much over the past 2yrs repairing the shaft I did have. It also made it a very bitter pill to swallow when the shaft got messed up due to my own lack of due diligence.
I have already talked to Jessie one time at High Angle. I mentioned your drive line as an example of what I want to go with, but he said he does a lot of drive lines, and does not remember yours. He was not real clear on if his stuff is just sitting on the shelf ready to sell or not. I am trying to keep costs down, and I just want to buy the splined shaft yoke with the threaded end and splined flange that goes onto it. Then install that myself, and then get the back half of the shaft built locally with the slip yoke built into it like yours. I see yours is a 1410. I think I am going to stay with a factory 1350 set up.
Yeah when I called him about fixing mine after it fell out I had to remind him what I had. I don't think he would know who you were talking about unless you told him I'm the guy that makes his stickers.
Based on my recent experience 1350 would be better from the stand point of parts availability.
Been working on the oiling system. Replaced the main seal for good measure. Decided to install a new HV oil pump and a windage tray. I did the windage tray on the recommendation of a few people and I know that the later model 454 and 350 motors had them from the factory. Pretty safe to figure the factory isn't going to put something on the motor that isn't useful considering they do everything they can to shave extra expenses.
The tray came from Milodon and I had to get their stud kit to install it. The directions tell you to bottom top the 4 main bolt holes to ensure the stud threads in far enough.
That made me a little nervous to do. I put grease in the tap to collect any metal. It really didn't do much threading. I gave it what I could a couple of times with as much force as I was comfortable with. Didn't want a broken tap in the motor.
The studs threaded in far enough for there to be no unthreaded portion of the stud showing.
I had been wondering what the 2 dimples in the oil pan were for:
There were to clear the windage tray studs. Only they didn't.
Did some research on the interwebs and found several instances of similar problems; even a couple of magazine articles covered it. A few people cut threads off the part that threads into the block; I didn't like this idea and since I didn't have any of the un-threaded stud showing I felt this was unnecessary. So I cut about 3/8" off the top of the studs for the windage tray.
I threaded 2 nuts and washer on the studs before cutting. This was to make sure I had enough stud left to mount the tray. Also running the nuts back off the stud makes sure the threads are good. Now they clear the pan.
The other problem I found with the windage tray is the hole for the oil pump bolt didn't line up. I had to drill it out a couple sizes with the step-bit.
Some of the research I read on the windage tray said people had to notch the tray to clear the oil pump pickup but I didn't have this problem. It was a bit of a puzzle to get the tray on the studs because I replaced the oil pump bolt with a stud.
You can see it is close to the pickup tube collar.
I forgot to mention, before mounting the oil pickup I used straight edges to check for oil pan clear. I have about 1/4" without the oil pan gasket. Once the pump with pickup was installed I put a big gob of grease on the pickup to make sure the clearance I measured was correct. The grease just barely touched the pan without the gasket so I'm good. From off the top of my head most recommend at least 1/4", maximum 1/2". This ensures the pickup isn't hitting the pan and also that it will be fully submerged in oil.
I used blue loctite on the windage tray and oil pump stud nuts. Where the stud threads into the main cap, I used red loctite. I also used the 609 loctite on the oil pump pickup that presses into the pump. You can also see the Milodon pickup as a bracket that uses one of the pump cover bolts.
The tray came from Milodon and I had to get their stud kit to install it. The directions tell you to bottom top the 4 main bolt holes to ensure the stud threads in far enough.
That made me a little nervous to do. I put grease in the tap to collect any metal. It really didn't do much threading. I gave it what I could a couple of times with as much force as I was comfortable with. Didn't want a broken tap in the motor.
The studs threaded in far enough for there to be no unthreaded portion of the stud showing.I had been wondering what the 2 dimples in the oil pan were for:
There were to clear the windage tray studs. Only they didn't.
Did some research on the interwebs and found several instances of similar problems; even a couple of magazine articles covered it. A few people cut threads off the part that threads into the block; I didn't like this idea and since I didn't have any of the un-threaded stud showing I felt this was unnecessary. So I cut about 3/8" off the top of the studs for the windage tray.
I threaded 2 nuts and washer on the studs before cutting. This was to make sure I had enough stud left to mount the tray. Also running the nuts back off the stud makes sure the threads are good. Now they clear the pan.
The other problem I found with the windage tray is the hole for the oil pump bolt didn't line up. I had to drill it out a couple sizes with the step-bit.
Some of the research I read on the windage tray said people had to notch the tray to clear the oil pump pickup but I didn't have this problem. It was a bit of a puzzle to get the tray on the studs because I replaced the oil pump bolt with a stud.
You can see it is close to the pickup tube collar.
I forgot to mention, before mounting the oil pickup I used straight edges to check for oil pan clear. I have about 1/4" without the oil pan gasket. Once the pump with pickup was installed I put a big gob of grease on the pickup to make sure the clearance I measured was correct. The grease just barely touched the pan without the gasket so I'm good. From off the top of my head most recommend at least 1/4", maximum 1/2". This ensures the pickup isn't hitting the pan and also that it will be fully submerged in oil.
I used blue loctite on the windage tray and oil pump stud nuts. Where the stud threads into the main cap, I used red loctite. I also used the 609 loctite on the oil pump pickup that presses into the pump. You can also see the Milodon pickup as a bracket that uses one of the pump cover bolts.
Looks like it's coming together nicely! With the support bracket and 609 on there I can't picture that pickup tube ever coming off there.
I put the pickup in the freezer for several days and it still took a lot to pound it into the pump. It should be secure.
Want to clean the motor up to paint it while its on the engine stand. What would be a good way to clean it up considering I have to keep the mess contained.
The water pump is off, but most of the holes are "plugged".
The water pump is off, but most of the holes are "plugged".
brake clean sprayed on a rag, old tooth brush. To help scrub it clean.
variety of wire brushes and brake clean with a big drip pan under it.
