CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond

Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
So the very first time I installed an auxiliary trans cooler I mounted it where I thought would be perfect. Finished up the install and slammed the hood closed and shortly after noticed a trans fluid puddle forming. I slammed the hood safety latch right into the cooler! :doah:

that's exactly what I avoided somehow.
 
Didn't finish as much as I would have liked for the final stretch before Blazer Bash. I got the power steering cooler remounted as well as adding a second cooler.

This is where the Howe cooler ended up:

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Drilled a hole so the 90 runs through the core support. Mounting this cooler took some time because I had to make sure it would clear the grill and headlight bezel.

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I decided to mount a tube & fin cooler under the core support with an electric fan.

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It has a 2 pass core I'm using for the power steering and a 4 pass core I'm going to use for the transmission. This cooler is basically adding some extra cooling for both systems. I'm going to put this fan on a switch and leave it on most of the time. I still have a plate cooler in front of the radiator that has a thermostat controlled fan for the transmission only. I started out just looking at cooler options for the steering system when I saw this one for the same money as a single fluid cooler and I thought it would be interesting to try adding some cooling for the trans.

I had mentioned before having a problem with the fitting for the reservoir line leaking where it connects to the pump. I was planning to put a new hose on it today and I noticed is looks like maybe the hose I was using was not rated for power steering. It looked like maybe it was weeping fluid. You can see in the picture the hose is darker color where it was exposed to the fluid compared to the color of the hose on the fitting. It was also wet with fluid.

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Here you can see when I first installed it, it was a uniform color.

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It was silicone heater hose. It was 3/4" hose (-12AN) that I had handy so I'd threw in there and didn't think about compatibility issues.

I installed new nylon braided hose today. Hoping this will stop the leaking issue.

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The blue line is -10AN hose that runs down under the radiator to the new cooler.

Didn't have time today to plumb the transmission side of the cooler. I want to redo those lines because they are close to the headers and not long enough to get them as far away as I'd like. Also need to wire the fan to a switch.
 
Tomorrow I'm going to cut into the hose and see if there's anything visual besides what I can see on the outside. I looked at the heater hoses and they are not doing the same thing so it seems to be related to the power steering fluid. I run Amsoil hydraulic tractor transmission fluid for what that is worth.
 
When I was buying all my PS hose some were not compatible with oils. I ended up with Russell hoses and FYI you need a heat gun to install them on push lock fittings.
 
The blue hose I've used is Summit brand twist-tite hose. I haven't tried heat but I do spray inside the hose with lube and I can get them to slide on. First time I used them I tried pushing the fittings in dry and that was nearly impossible. The nylon braided hose for the reservoir (and fuel lines too for that matter) is Vibrant band and I used the original type AN hose ends.
 
I tried oils, boiled them, nothing worked. Had multiple blisters after assembling two hose ends. Used a $20 heat gun and they slid on easily. Just thought I would mention it because I've had some push lok hoses that were much easier than these.
 
do you have a Parker hose service center close by...they threw some short sections of hose at me for $00.00, and they know what's compatible with what fluids.
 
I'm pretty sure there are places around that can do hydraulic hoses my problem is I always need them on the weekend.
 
Besides the hose not being rated for oil contact, heater hose is for water, do you want me to tell you why that will always leak. No matter what you do.
 
Are the coolers going to have enough air movement around them? The heat sink one will only move air alone 25% of the surface, and not efficiently. The one under the support looks like it needs more clearance from the support. Might just be the picture angle.
 
Most hose places are open on Saturday mornings...
Maybe in your neck of the woods but not here. I just did a quick Google search to confirm.

Besides the hose not being rated for oil contact, heater hose is for water, do you want me to tell you why that will always leak. No matter what you do.
Oh I know now, I just never gave that stuff much heed. Guess I know better now. But I'm always up for good info.

Are the coolers going to have enough air movement around them? The heat sink one will only move air alone 25% of the surface, and not efficiently. The one under the support looks like it needs more clearance from the support. Might just be the picture angle.
I only kept the heat sink cooler because I had the fittings and it wasn't too inconvenient to mount it on the way to the other cooler. I figured any little bit could help.

The cooler came with the mounting bracket but it is also an additional 1/2" further away from the core support. I had to make mounting brackets to mount the cooler on because the factory mounting holes didn't all land on flat spots.
 
Maybe in your neck of the woods but not here. I just did a quick Google search to confirm.


Oh I know now, I just never gave that stuff much heed. Guess I know better now. But I'm always up for good info.


I only kept the heat sink cooler because I had the fittings and it wasn't too inconvenient to mount it on the way to the other cooler. I figured any little bit could help.

The cooler came with the mounting bracket but it is also an additional 1/2" further away from the core support. I had to make mounting brackets to mount the cooler on because the factory mounting holes didn't all land on flat spots.

Your hose is too short for the motion in the ocean

The amount of frame flex to engine movement is too much, you have your reservoir mounted to the frame and the pump is on the engine. With that short of a distance there isn't enough flex in that hose to truly allow for things to move as they need to. After Blazer bash figure out a way to mount the res. to the engine and it will all be good.
 
I was actually looking at that this weekend, ,mounting the reservoir to the motor that is. I was thinking I could make a bracket off the front of the motor that would put the reservoir pretty close to where it is now. There are 2 holes at the top of the head and one on the front of the intake manifold.
 
Okay, so I'm trying to narrow down my Blazer Bash prep list from things I think I need to thing I really do need.

  1. Re-route trans cooler lines away from exhaust and into new cooler
  2. Wire fan for new cooler
  3. Weld part of exhaust
  4. Fuel tank plates at least between brackets to keep sending unit area safe
  5. Try replacing passenger tank return line between tank selector valve and tank to see if that brings pressure down to match other tank
  6. new CB antenna

would be nice list
  • in-cab fuel pressure gauge
  • new rear shocks with better mounting
 

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