No bleeding.
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
get one for your two post lift
How do you bleed a jack? My Craftsman 3 ton doesn’t want to lift all the way up any more.
Sorry for the hijack.
No worries. I didn't really know it was possible.
The little rubber nipple on the cylinder body. I watched a YouTube video about it a while back. Pretty easy to do.
I started putting Magnum parts together. I have the FAT shaft installed in the case.
I comes with a new bearing and the snap rings.
FYI, the bearing is not fully seated in that picture.
I fought with putting the shift fork back in, principally pinning it to the shift rail. I followed @sweetk30 's advice and started the pin before putting the fork in the box.
I finally decided the only way I can get the pin tapped back in is to have the rear output assembly mated with the input shaft or I need to grow a 3rd arm. I have a feeling the first option will happen sooner. I'm just waiting for the bearing I ordered to replace the messed up one I posted about earlier.
I comes with a new bearing and the snap rings.
FYI, the bearing is not fully seated in that picture.
I fought with putting the shift fork back in, principally pinning it to the shift rail. I followed @sweetk30 's advice and started the pin before putting the fork in the box.
I finally decided the only way I can get the pin tapped back in is to have the rear output assembly mated with the input shaft or I need to grow a 3rd arm. I have a feeling the first option will happen sooner. I'm just waiting for the bearing I ordered to replace the messed up one I posted about earlier.
BEEF
Looking badass!
Got the new bearing. Picture for comparison just for the sake of posting a picture and it has the part number of the new one.
Putting the tail section back together. This is the NP241 tone wheel that was turned down.
And here's the tone wheel and the speed sensor.
Seeking opinions. I noticed the yoke had some surface rust. I cleaned it up with 320 grit sandpaper and scotchbrite pad. Do you all think it will leak on me? This is the side I cleaned up:
This is the other side that I buffed at the same time.
Not any large pitting on the side that had rust, but you can see the surface is rougher. Not really anything you can feel with your fingers, not that I have the softest touch.
Putting the tail section back together. This is the NP241 tone wheel that was turned down.
And here's the tone wheel and the speed sensor.
Seeking opinions. I noticed the yoke had some surface rust. I cleaned it up with 320 grit sandpaper and scotchbrite pad. Do you all think it will leak on me? This is the side I cleaned up:
This is the other side that I buffed at the same time.
Not any large pitting on the side that had rust, but you can see the surface is rougher. Not really anything you can feel with your fingers, not that I have the softest touch.
It won't leak but it may seep. I wouldn't worry about it though. Pitting areas are not really something the seals like to deform into, especially under motion. It all depends on the seal used, viscosity and surface tension of the oil, combined with internal pressure or splash forces on the seals.
For this I would run that and not think about it unless it turns into a serious leak.
You didn't take much material off did you? You can mic it. But its a transfer case yoke.
For this I would run that and not think about it unless it turns into a serious leak.
You didn't take much material off did you? You can mic it. But its a transfer case yoke.
I'd run it.
The Koyo bearing in the Timken box is always interesting
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
It'll leak because it's a 205. Just the way they are.
Nice progress!
Is that last lift a speedi sleeve on the shaft?
According to my super accurate Harbor Freight digital caliper I get a difference of .002" at most measuring around the diameter in about 4 places.
I did think that was interesting but I was just happy to see it was actually made in the USA. Anymore I half expect even the good stuff to be made in China.
I think you might just be seeing a groove. There doesn't appear to be any sleeve added.
Continued assembly. Was a little bit of a trick torquing the bearing retainer on the bench. Ended up with a deep socket on the speed sensor to get enough counter leverage.
Then used my homemade tool for torquing the nut.
The Magnum kit even included a new rubber star washer; I thought that was really cool.
All buttoned up.
The bolts I pulled out were all caked up and I'm out of brake cleaner so I used some serrated flange bolts. The length of the factory bolts is odd; a little less than 1" but more than 3/4". So I used 3/4" bolts where there could be problems if the bolt threaded too far into the case and used the 1" bolts on the other side. Basically the side towards the center of the tcase needed the shorter bolts.
Some may see my fly in the ointment. My idea for the vent won't work.
So I need to get just a straight barb. Or I may get a bushing and raise the elbow up.
Per an earlier discussion about bleeding jacks, I noticed this on the trans jack today.
Then used my homemade tool for torquing the nut.
The Magnum kit even included a new rubber star washer; I thought that was really cool.
All buttoned up.
The bolts I pulled out were all caked up and I'm out of brake cleaner so I used some serrated flange bolts. The length of the factory bolts is odd; a little less than 1" but more than 3/4". So I used 3/4" bolts where there could be problems if the bolt threaded too far into the case and used the 1" bolts on the other side. Basically the side towards the center of the tcase needed the shorter bolts.
Some may see my fly in the ointment. My idea for the vent won't work.
So I need to get just a straight barb. Or I may get a bushing and raise the elbow up.
Per an earlier discussion about bleeding jacks, I noticed this on the trans jack today.
Anyone know where I can get jack oil?
From a Jackalope silly...
