Either one works
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
I go by the wheel lip, that's what they use when they set your alignment at an alignment shop.
Tires are not always consistent, the wheel as long as it isn't bent will be consistent.
When I did mine. I clammped two pieces of metal against the front rotors and adjusted until it was close. It always drove straight but a year later we put it on a machine and once it registered we pulled it off. It was dead nuts.
Yep, with two 40” pieces of angle iron with a level on each.
If you go on a horizontal line they are consistent enough.
Been doing it for 35 years.
But warped rotors can toss it off, but I guess thousandths maybe it's to much to be worried about.
That's how I tried to do it. It was so long ago I question if maybe there was some other reason the tires got messed up.
Doesn't show up well in the pictures, but I put 16" Spal pusher in front of the radiator.
I was able to use brackets bent in a kind of Z shape to mount it about 1/4" away from the radiator mounted from the front of the core support.
Today wasn't all that warm so testing wasn't terribly arduous, but the fan did bring coolant temps down so it should help.
I set it up to run off the EFI to come on at 195 and off at 185.
I was able to use brackets bent in a kind of Z shape to mount it about 1/4" away from the radiator mounted from the front of the core support.
Today wasn't all that warm so testing wasn't terribly arduous, but the fan did bring coolant temps down so it should help.
I set it up to run off the EFI to come on at 195 and off at 185.
Alignment done. Nothing needed changed so he didn't charge me anything.
Spare tire mounted on the rim and tied down in the truck.
Finally feel like I'm ready to go to Blazer Bash.
Spare tire mounted on the rim and tied down in the truck.
Finally feel like I'm ready to go to Blazer Bash.
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I ended up getting the seal install tool @obijuank5 posted. I used some 3/4" thick plastic to cut rings that will allow the seal to drive in deeper because the tool is a little bigger than the seal OD.
Bringing that plus 2 seals with me to Blazer Bash just in case. Just worried I might have tweaked the new seals when driving them in.
Bringing that plus 2 seals with me to Blazer Bash just in case. Just worried I might have tweaked the new seals when driving them in.
Those kent more drivers are brittle as all get out. Make sure you are squared up to the seal and housing. We've broken a couple lately in the shop because someone got careless and tagged the edge as they hit it. That style is no longer available for us to get.
Better find someone who can do these on a lathe or a 3D printer maybe.
Yes, I broke a similar driver I got for the axle seals in my C10. I'm pretty sure I hit it with the edge of the hammer face. I'm bringing a dead blow hammer as well. Hoping that will help it survive.
There is a website that sells them new but they want almost $200 for them.
Bending the tierod into a frown and still having it drive straight counteracts the warped rotorsBut warped rotors can toss it off, but I guess thousandths maybe it's to much to be worried about.
Added some bling.
First time?
Can't think of anything else shiny I've added.
I mostly did it because I didn't want the exhaust blowing on the tires. I don't know if it would have really mattered in the long term, but I could feel where the tire was warmer from the exhaust.
I mostly did it because I didn't want the exhaust blowing on the tires. I don't know if it would have really mattered in the long term, but I could feel where the tire was warmer from the exhaust.
This things looks so much better with the 40's on it. With how big and long this truck is, having a bigger tire like that looks so much more proportionate.
