I think by 02 they were not 14 bolts they were something other than a 14 bolt
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
AAM axles, but 90%the same as a GM Corp 14 Bolt. GM just sold off that division in 1994.
Our History
AAM became a stand-alone, independent and multi-billion-dollar Tier 1 automotive supplier on March 1, 1994.
www.aam.com
I just installed a "14 bolt" out of a 2004 in mine. Technically it's an AAM axle, but it's a 14 bolt none-the-less. With disk brakes.
What I'd want to do is an axle with factory disc brakes that will accept the guts from my current 14blt. If I could get one 3" wider, that would be bonus.
Retube yours and new axles.
That's exactly what I did. Took the gears and locker out of my old one and dropped them in the new axle. Easy-peasy.
Oil leak #1 fixed. What I found wasn't a surprise after noticing this little piece hanging out.
That was the valve cover I had on and off several times finding the loose rocker stud. Apparently didn't notice this corner had popped out.
Since I had it apart again I cut a bit of the casting off that holds the coils.
That area was making it nearly impossible to get the bottom nut off the throttle body. Of course if I was going to have a valve cover leak it had to be on the side that requires taking the throttle body off.
The other thing I'm realizing is that practically speaking, mounting the coils on the valve covers doesn't make for the easiest maintenance. Hopefully pulling the valve covers off isn't a regular occurrence.
That was the valve cover I had on and off several times finding the loose rocker stud. Apparently didn't notice this corner had popped out.
Since I had it apart again I cut a bit of the casting off that holds the coils.
That area was making it nearly impossible to get the bottom nut off the throttle body. Of course if I was going to have a valve cover leak it had to be on the side that requires taking the throttle body off.
The other thing I'm realizing is that practically speaking, mounting the coils on the valve covers doesn't make for the easiest maintenance. Hopefully pulling the valve covers off isn't a regular occurrence.
The other engine oil leak was from the oil cooler fittings at the engine block. The swivel seemed really loose and I wondered if the lines were getting pulled up and down from the frame flex between the engine and core support.
I started out by replacing the leak fittings. Then I made a bracket using a line separator to hold the lines stationary to the engine so there's not much up and down pressure on the fittings.
The other thing I noticed is I had the lines held to the steering box crossmember with a clamp that was pulling a lot of slack out of the lines. I took that off. I put a zip tie thru the mounting hole I was using for the clamp to keep the lines from getting too close to the crank pulley. The zip tire is loose to allow movement.
The clamp was holding the hoses over where the ziptie goes through the hole. Hopefully this will take pressure off the fittings.
I started out by replacing the leak fittings. Then I made a bracket using a line separator to hold the lines stationary to the engine so there's not much up and down pressure on the fittings.
The other thing I noticed is I had the lines held to the steering box crossmember with a clamp that was pulling a lot of slack out of the lines. I took that off. I put a zip tie thru the mounting hole I was using for the clamp to keep the lines from getting too close to the crank pulley. The zip tire is loose to allow movement.
The clamp was holding the hoses over where the ziptie goes through the hole. Hopefully this will take pressure off the fittings.
I've had the valve covers off my 489 once in 15 years, and that was because I wanted to remove the black paint, not because I needed them off. Hydraulic roller cams shouldn't need much maintenance.
That's the goal I'm shooting for!
On another note, I was thinking about the oil cooler line leak I had. If that happens again, can I just cap the fittings at the block. Thinking about quick trail repair scenario. I know there's a bypass for the oil cooler. Wouldn't capping the fitting be like the cooler was plugged and the bypass would open to allow flow to continue like it was designed to?
Yes I capped one of my trucks at work that had leaking lines.
What brand of fittings did you use ?
The first set were Fragola but the hose is Vibrant so the replacement hose ends are Vibrant based on earlier recommendations in this thread to match brands between hose and fittings. For what it's worth, the fittings on the cooler are doing fine.
I immediately thought of your trouble when they started leaking.
If these don't hold I think I'm going to a hybrid setup with the factory lines in the block, cut the rubber portion, and use a barb fitting to get from there to the cooler.
I know a lot of people would just ditch the oil cooler but I like having it on there. If for nothing else, a little piece of mind even if it's all in my head.
I immediately thought of your trouble when they started leaking.
If these don't hold I think I'm going to a hybrid setup with the factory lines in the block, cut the rubber portion, and use a barb fitting to get from there to the cooler.
I know a lot of people would just ditch the oil cooler but I like having it on there. If for nothing else, a little piece of mind even if it's all in my head.
Put an oil temp sender in, then you'll know if you need it.
I did the cooler on the L86 with the block fitting and ran the factory hard lines to the front. Used Vibrant "tubing to braided hose" adapter. Suspending the hose when running horizontal is important. I see more leaks at hose ends because they sag as they get hot.
I did put an adapter in one of the oil cooler lines so I can add one. I just need to get the sender so I can connect it to the digital dash. It was low on the budget list priority so it hasn't happened yet.
That's encouraging to hear. I might be on the right track with the new bracket setup. That Vibrant adapter sounds like what I need if I go that route.
I used a similar set up on an earlier trans cooler. Use hard line to -an, when I still included the radiator cooler. Iirc the brand was Russel, no leaks.
Can't remember if I mentioned, I ended up with aluminum hood pins. I was sure they'd shear off on the first trail but they stayed in tact the entire trip. The front ones are pretty much unharmed but the rear set didn't fare as well. Basically stripped the threads off the aluminum.
It's not easy to find steel 1/2-20 hood pins. I ordered some Summit brand pins but they were missed labeled on the website as steel, they are aluminum. Summit being the stand up company it is, sent out a set of All Star steel hood pins no cost to me and I didn't have to return the others.
I have to admit this hood is growing on me. Or I'm getting used to it. Not sure I'm going to find the motivation to cut up another hood anytime soon.....
It's not easy to find steel 1/2-20 hood pins. I ordered some Summit brand pins but they were missed labeled on the website as steel, they are aluminum. Summit being the stand up company it is, sent out a set of All Star steel hood pins no cost to me and I didn't have to return the others.
I have to admit this hood is growing on me. Or I'm getting used to it. Not sure I'm going to find the motivation to cut up another hood anytime soon.....
What I switched to after shearing aluminum ones.
I’m running the autofabs and they have been flawless.
I rhink its a 9/16” pin though.
I rhink its a 9/16” pin though.
