I miss snow wheeling
CK5
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'89 R3500 Crew Cab 2wd to 4wd conversion & beyond
- Thread starter mrk5
- Start date
Started out with 2wd TBI350 with SM465 to current 4wd with 454, 700r4, NP241
That is some deep ass snow.
David
David
That trail typically has a lot deeper snow on it. We blew through most of the trail really quick, the first section usually takes an hour or more and we blew through it in like 20min.
Anyone happen to know what the bolt size is for the transfercase adapter to bolt to the 4l80e transmission? I'm guessing something metric. I noticed mine were loose and I want to replace them with better bolts.
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Which transmission/tcase? I don't want to reread 337 pages to find it...
I thought everyone just knew.
4l80e from a 95 K3500. I don't remember what transfercase it had.
lol I read it this morning and was like I’m surprised he didn’t list what trans then I remembered it was a 4l80e just like I’m sure everyone knows what trans I haveI thought everyone just knew.
That's what I thought when I saw the question, "didn't I put it in the post?"
I tried finding the answer on Google but the best I could get was the bolts available to purchase and no info on what size they are. These bolts were really a problem with the old 700r4/241 setup, and I want to avoid that again. I'd like to try NordLock washers to see if I can avoid an ongoing issue again.
I had the same issue with my 700R4/241 in the Blazer many moons ago. After discussing it with @Stephen at a Blazer Bash, he pointed out that my trans mount was too rigid and frame flex was causing the bolts to break loose as both the engine and trans were fairly rigid mount. Making a more flexible trans mount fixed my issue. Do you have a picture of your current trans mount?That's what I thought when I saw the question, "didn't I put it in the post?"
I tried finding the answer on Google but the best I could get was the bolts available to purchase and no info on what size they are. These bolts were really a problem with the old 700r4/241 setup, and I want to avoid that again. I'd like to try NordLock washers to see if I can avoid an ongoing issue again.
I did the mount like this hoping it would help with the bolts.
They weren't as loose as they would get on the 700/241, but I was able to snug them up. My big issued is I can only reach about half them without dropping everything out.
They weren't as loose as they would get on the 700/241, but I was able to snug them up. My big issued is I can only reach about half them without dropping everything out.
I did 2 of those bushing setups side by side oriented front to back.
I did something similar on the S-10 and never had an issue.
I'm not sure if your design is more restrictive than mine though.
I did something similar on the S-10 and never had an issue.
I'm not sure if your design is more restrictive than mine though.
I'd like to redo my crossmember and skid plate, maybe i should consider a redesign of the mounts.
I’ve not heard of the threads in a 4l80e housing getting wiped out like the ones on the 700r4s did but they both just have the bolts threading into the aluminum housing. Back when I had the 700r4 in my K5 I had the bolts get loose enough to start leaking trans fluid. I ended up pulling the t-case and installing some thread inserts to the trans housing. They were called “time-certs” and GM used them to replace worn threads in the aluminum Northstar caddy v8 blocks that were prone to wipe out threads for the head bolts or main bearing bolts. Think of them as a heli-coil on steroids. Steel solid insert instead of what a heli-coil is. Took an extra couple of steps but that adapter never came loose again.
I would only go through the exercise on installing thread inserts if you already had a reason to pull the magnum/205 out.
I would only go through the exercise on installing thread inserts if you already had a reason to pull the magnum/205 out.
4l80E has 6 bolts instead of 4 on the 700r4 so it is less likely to loosen up.
But with extra weight of the magnum and 205, I guess it does.
I have to look again at the case of the 4l80E but if they are anything like the 700r4, I used to put longer bolts and a nut on the other end to secure the bolts.
Never had a problem after that
Yeah, I'm hoping to just drop the crossmember down enough to get to the bolts.
I'm wondering if some of it is the torque from double gear reduction. And I frequently shift gears with the converter locked up on the trail.
No luck with getting a nut on there, but I could think about a stud & nut.
Since my initial post was vague on info, here's a picture with the bolts pointed out.
I’ve never had a problem with those bolts loosening up and I have a very similar setup as yours. Mounts are quite a bit different though.
The common denominator for me is the truck so it could be the length of the frame and allowing a lot of twist.
A while back I was cleaning up some junk left laying around after the engine swap which included the engine mounts that were installed with the first 454. I noticed they were just about shot. You can see where the inner steel core was just about split out of the polyurethane.
I figure that's a good indication of the twisting the frame is experiencing.
A while back I was cleaning up some junk left laying around after the engine swap which included the engine mounts that were installed with the first 454. I noticed they were just about shot. You can see where the inner steel core was just about split out of the polyurethane.
I figure that's a good indication of the twisting the frame is experiencing.
I’ve had issues with those poly mounts wearing out prematurely on both K10’s. I upgraded to ORD’s 7 years ago and haven’t had an issue. since.
I did put the ORD mounts in with the GenVI engine so I'm glad I did after hearing that.
