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'90 K5 'Barney'

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Barney is being put on the back burner, my Dad closed up his shop and I spent the first 2 months of this year cleaning out an area of the shop to rent to cover taxes so I didn’t have to pay them to keep the shop, it needed tons of work and was in sad shape but the end goal was to have this area mine. Now I need a place to actually work on Barney which means sort through and clean up everything I’ve literally crammed into this shop from the rented space. The plan is fill in the hole under the Volvo and race car (pictured) and install a two post lift and better lighting. Unfortunately the Volvo aka Hoopey has to run by 4/10 (Mom’s birthday) and it’s been sitting since sometime in 2015 so after a carb kit, drain the tank and a slave cylinder it’s drivable again, all I lack are radiator and 4 tires, it was my grandfathers and has sentimental value so Mom’s gonna be happy and I’ll have it out of my way.:whistle:
Can anyone guess the model or does anyone care what model the Hoopey is?

I’m pretty certain we’re going full rebuild on Barney, I have a lot of OT lined up and I think that I’m going to suck it up and do it once and right. @acm was very nice to come forward and offer up a TBI 350 to replace mine but it doesn’t match what I wanted to end up with and I don’t think I want to do all this work to end up with what I already had so somehow or another I want to end up 383, we’ll see, I’m going to push hard through April at work and see what my budget is come May, after 4/10 as time allows pull this motor, assess damage and go with the most reasonable route.

It has a new tranny, may as well get a new motor! :woot:

0E2B280E-D7BF-4389-8D02-55A411ADBB37.jpeg
 
Finally started pulling the motor and we’re going to need some direction. I think I’m going to have this block machines and build off of it unless someone knows of a cheap short block.

Who has advice on this setup, I’ve been talking to Brian from TPI chips, he’s suggested this kit from Skip White https://www.skipwhiteperformance.co...ods-wiseco-10cc-dh-030-pistons-1pc-rms_85200/
Then these heads to bolt on top of it.
https://www.skipwhiteperformance.co...m-heads-68cc-straight-plug-nkb-274-pbm_84994/
With this Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 264/269, Lift .488/.495.

What do y’all think of this, what kind of compression should I be shooting for and what’s better a 5.7 or 6” rod? I’ve been going cross eyed looking at all this stuff but I’m feeling a lot closer to ordering some goodies!
 
So I’d like more cam specs or a link

I’ve never heard of skip white or seen their products other than your link. Having someone that’s used them to verify the quality is always good

I’m not a fan of a 5.7” rod in a 383. Rod angularity on a 350 is less than optimal at a 3.48” stroke.
No it’s not a race engine, but high rod angularity leads to premature rod failure


Add up your total costs including machine work on the block ( notching the pan rails I assume?). Head may need reassembled with different keepers or seals (whose doing the block work? Ask about heads) gaskets, rockers, push rods, valve covers...

I ended up buying a complete engine because I wasn’t saving very much for the right to assemble it myself in all my free time
 
Everything I have read says 6” rod is a better ratio.
That’s what I used in my build.
 
Bent77 said:
So I’d like more cam specs or a link

I’ve never heard of skip white or seen their products other than your link. Having someone that’s used them to verify the quality is always good

I’m not a fan of a 5.7” rod in a 383. Rod angularity on a 350 is less than optimal at a 3.48” stroke.
No it’s not a race engine, but high rod angularity leads to premature rod failure


Add up your total costs including machine work on the block ( notching the pan rails I assume?). Head may need reassembled with different keepers or seals (whose doing the block work? Ask about heads) gaskets, rockers, push rods, valve covers...

I ended up buying a complete engine because I wasn’t saving very much for the right to assemble it myself in all my free time
Click to expand...

What he said. And I bought my 383 long block from
Blueprint racing cheaper than the 383 I built from old block and heads.
 
Fastereddie said:
What he said. And I bought my 383 long block from
Blueprint racing cheaper than the 383 I built from old block and heads.
Click to expand...
How’s that one holding up? I didn’t go with blueprint just because the unknown factor
 
I just dug these out of the filing cabinet to see what the date was. So looks like I put it in the spring of 2010. I haven’t had a single issue out if it except my stupid mistake of using the wrong intake gaskets when I first put it in. Had big vacuum and coolant leak. Got the correct ones, changed the oil twice and
Took it out. Blew up the alpha drive while jetting the carb. Swapped in a whole bravo one setup and haven’t looked back. Runs absolutely fantastic.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
:dunno: If you say so! I have the TB sent off to get worked over, it’s supposed to flow 650cfm when it shows up.:woot:
 
I’d talk it over with your machine buddy, but the specs on the one you posted look to nose over at 5200. Seems a little early
 
I’ll keep this updated, the biggest issue I have is that I’m trying to play with the TBI, in doing this I’m getting away from what my friend likes to fool with so I’m in unchartered territory which is why I’m shopping for opinions.
 
I’m also going to try to keep the TBI. I’ll keep my build thread updated
 
Do not use Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons on a 6.0 rod.

That is all I have to add.
 
The machine shop I worked at for a minute built one that way, pistons kept breaking ring lands, kept having to warranty it. The third time it happened (in like 2.5 months) it cracked the cylinder and we had to sleeve the block...

Threw some mahle's or something in it and never heard another peep from the guy...
 
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