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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build
- Thread starter cliles
- Start date
what bender did you go with?
Rogue Fab's Alpha bender
https://www.roguefab.com/product.php?id=2
I spent some time talking to owner a couple of months ago. I am not sure if the product is the best, but has to be one of the top for the $, which is somewhat of a concern. I am not looking to build a legitimate roll cage. I'm not going to do any serious wheeling, do not want to lose the openness/passenger accessibility, and it seems like if you are not taking the change to the frame often then you havent helped yourself a ton. Just going for an interior setup similar to yours (without as much of a structural component to it), some steps, grab handles, maybe a tube bumper, etc so I cannot justify too pricey of a unit. Plus this baby coming soon is probably going to break me.
It has some nice features like not having to be bolted to the floor and bending vertically for space. I got a pretty big shop/garage (30 x 50), but the ceiling is 12' - 16', which should be greater than my longest piece.
Same thing with the tubing notcher. I tried to get the cheapest one I thought would work ok and hold up. http://www.medfordtools.com/metalworking/tubenotcher.html
https://www.roguefab.com/product.php?id=2
I spent some time talking to owner a couple of months ago. I am not sure if the product is the best, but has to be one of the top for the $, which is somewhat of a concern. I am not looking to build a legitimate roll cage. I'm not going to do any serious wheeling, do not want to lose the openness/passenger accessibility, and it seems like if you are not taking the change to the frame often then you havent helped yourself a ton. Just going for an interior setup similar to yours (without as much of a structural component to it), some steps, grab handles, maybe a tube bumper, etc so I cannot justify too pricey of a unit. Plus this baby coming soon is probably going to break me.
It has some nice features like not having to be bolted to the floor and bending vertically for space. I got a pretty big shop/garage (30 x 50), but the ceiling is 12' - 16', which should be greater than my longest piece.
Same thing with the tubing notcher. I tried to get the cheapest one I thought would work ok and hold up. http://www.medfordtools.com/metalworking/tubenotcher.html
Looks like it might be an E67 so not sure the pedal I used will work or not. I have an E38 in my. The pedal was only like $50 or so and then the pigtail to wire it. I have seen a lot of guy that cut the shaft and extend it on those type pedals. My is all plastic so I couldn't do that.
Called S&P to get a set of headers like Teck's. They said they have a K5 in the shop with an LS3 that they are making custom headers for. Once they get it done, they will set up a jig and offer them as their own product line. So I'm just going to call back in a week or two and check in on their progress.
Definitely and E67 - this site says they are used in 2006 and newer cars. However Tecks PCM also says it is used in vehicles newer than 2005.
http://www.lt1swap.com/pcm_identification.htm
Where that leaves me on the pedal. I dont know
After skimming this PDF, I am nervous about my Tcase's speed sensor. The guy mentions that you may have to install a reluctor ring in the Tcase if it was previously used with a TBI engine.
RogueFab
Registered Member
Glad you got to put it to use and bend some tube! Let us know if you have any questions as you break that bad boy in
Can you keep us updated on the headers and which tcase you plan on using?
On Gen III computers you need a TAC box so the pedal will communicate with the ECM. On GEN IV it is built in the ECM so you have to have a pedal the goes with the ECM. Not sure if a pedal for a E67 and E38 will interchange. Have to do some more research.
Nice, the only change they need is the passenger side points in toward the tranny to much. They did talk about remaking my header for me if I thought it wouldn't work, but we fixed it by just remaking the collector with it point 12 degrees outward. If I had known it was going to take as long as it did to get i running I may have done that.
Gauges on an LS
Look like Teck has it nailed down, but I found this link on autometer while looking for information on their gauges.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150417363640587.618601.282128680586
Look like Teck has it nailed down, but I found this link on autometer while looking for information on their gauges.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150417363640587.618601.282128680586
Oil Cooler
Got a tranny and oil cooler on the way. Looking to run one of these sandwhich plates from flex-a-lite to tie in the oil cooler.
The coolers are both rated for 32,000 lbs (which means nothing to me), supposedly can cool an RV.
My transmission guy at Phoenix says run the tranny cooler inline (and after) the radiator, but the radiator guy said just to run straight to the tranny cooler (with the intention being that it would keep the tranny cooler that way and the engine as well). I am not sure where to go with that.
Looking to take my old oil cooler and convert it into a PS cooler, should have a pretty full grille.
Got a tranny and oil cooler on the way. Looking to run one of these sandwhich plates from flex-a-lite to tie in the oil cooler.
The coolers are both rated for 32,000 lbs (which means nothing to me), supposedly can cool an RV.
My transmission guy at Phoenix says run the tranny cooler inline (and after) the radiator, but the radiator guy said just to run straight to the tranny cooler (with the intention being that it would keep the tranny cooler that way and the engine as well). I am not sure where to go with that.
Looking to take my old oil cooler and convert it into a PS cooler, should have a pretty full grille.
drew4x4
1/2 ton status
i had that same question!!
here's a link that i read through, has a bunch of info about transmission coolers.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284638
from my readings, running the transmission fluid through the radiator helps to heat cold fluid up faster.. getting it up to operating temperatures.
my radiator doesn't have a transmission cooler at all, so i am using two things;
a b&m super cooler, and an inline temperature regulator.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13011/
the inline temperature regulator will prevent cold fluid from being run through the cooler, which should help the fluid warm up quickly.
here's a link that i read through, has a bunch of info about transmission coolers.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=284638
from my readings, running the transmission fluid through the radiator helps to heat cold fluid up faster.. getting it up to operating temperatures.
my radiator doesn't have a transmission cooler at all, so i am using two things;
a b&m super cooler, and an inline temperature regulator.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13011/
the inline temperature regulator will prevent cold fluid from being run through the cooler, which should help the fluid warm up quickly.
You need to make sure they will all fit, 32,000 lbs cooler are probably pretty good size. I think my tranny cooler is rated at 29,000lbs. Here is my tranny cooler on the left and power steering on the right and the space is pretty full.
I ran my thru the radiator then the cooler and back to the tranny.
I ran my thru the radiator then the cooler and back to the tranny.
The flex a lite adapter looks like it would work better then the other one we were talking about.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Seems the general agreement on the tranny cooler is to run the fluid through the radiator, and then through the cooler.
That is the same sammich plate for the cooler I plan on running for mine.
I got a email from my tranny guy, I'll post later. He says run it through the radiator bc of waters much higher heating coefficient. Same reason I put hot beer in ice water vs an air refrigerator.
The argument about helpin it heat up faster is a little bogus bc you would have to allow the engine to reach an operating temperature high enough to open the thermostat.
The argument about helpin it heat up faster is a little bogus bc you would have to allow the engine to reach an operating temperature high enough to open the thermostat.
