What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Overview Gallery Discussion
ORD Crossmember

I got the stock crossmember out, and I am working on getting the ORD crossmember in. God help anybody trying to do this swap with the engine in.

The holes are definitely not just lining up like they said, we will see how it goes once I get the rivet holes enlarged.

Then hopefully I will test fit the engine with the dirtydingo mounts.
 
cliles said:
I got the stock crossmember out, and I am working on getting the ORD crossmember in. God help anybody trying to do this swap with the engine in.

The holes are definitely not just lining up like they said, we will see how it goes once I get the rivet holes enlarged.

Then hopefully I will test fit the engine with the dirtydingo mounts.
Click to expand...

I did it with the engine in and it was a such a pain in the ass! A lot of cursing was involved :whistle:
 
I built my new crossmember with the engine in, and the frame does sag with the crossmember out. But if you take a big alignment steel bar you can pry through one of the holes to get the other holes lined up next to it. Or use a ratchet cable or a bar clamp to pull the frame back in.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I tried to use the engine hoist to lift it in place with no success (even after lifting the front end), and ended up taking one of the pieces that the engine mount, mounts to off and getting it that way. I am just trying a test fit before I drill holes and paint the crossmember because I have heard that the ORD may not work with an LS swap.

Hopefully if it works, then I will be able to pry/lift it in place after I drill the new holes.
 
Did you get the big block or small block version? The small block version barely clears my factory SBC oil pan. In fact I think it rubs when the chassis twists up and I have ORD competition style motor mounts :eek1:
 
Got the big block version. Rep said he was not sure that it would work for an LS swap, but thought that if any were to work, the BBC one would be it.
 
Wire Harness

Any LS swappers care to comment on what they did with their old wiring harness?

I should only need a couple of small items that I am not even sure if they are controlled by the stock PCM. I can think of blower, ac, windshield wipers, lights, stereo.

I know if I just hack it all off that I will probably run into some issue where I cannot get it to start, but surely I do not need to keep it all.

Any advice, links, or directions to other builds that have addressed this would be appreciated.
 
Fuel Delivery

Well I was going to stick with my stock 3/8" hard line (probably made from mild steel), because a lot of people have told me that it would be sufficient.

However I have read enough that suggest you really should move up to a -8 AN for over 500 hp. I am going to take the approach I have had with most of this build, and go better safe than sorry. Probably you the 3/8" hard line for the return from the pressure regulator.

I'll be honest with you, there are a lot of fuel system kits out there with various fittings that I am not sure I will/will not need. It would be nice to find a local place that deals in this stuff so I can return any unused items because the lines and fittings are quite spendy.

Any suggestions of packaged kits or known localish vendors would be appreciated.
 
You can check out my build. Mine has alot of wiring info starting around page 6 i think. I just got a wiring diagram off the internet for a 7747 computer and clipped out all the wires that appeared to be tied directly to the computer/old fuel injection. I had about 10 wires left over after that and just connected what i needed to where i needed to.
 
It used to be true you had to have -8 for 500 hp, but not with modern EFI fuel pressures. You can push a significantly more fuel through the same line at 50 psi vs 5 or 10 psi. Look at the outlet of the standard walbro pump, it's only 5/16" OD and it has a little check valve in it, yet it flows enough fuel for over 700 hp. Now, I wouldn't want that tiny line the entire length, that would be a lot of extra flow loss, but you really should be fine with 3/8 or -6 line with your setup. Thats what I am running, and it is working fine, injector duty cycle is staying in the safe zone and hte engine is running good, which means it is not starving for fuel.
 
So the stock 3/8" hard line, what is its ID? The reason I mentioned replacing it was because I am going to have to run some flexible line regardless. So whats an extra 4 or 5 feet. That being said, it is still 4 or 5 feet I do not have to buy/build.
 
I'd like to take credit for it, but I pretty much borrowed it straight from beufchris or something like that, when he did his ls swap.
 
Fighting the ORD Crossmember

Trying to cheat with the engine hoist, fail.

IMG_0894.jpg

IMG_0895.jpg

IMG_0896.jpg
 
Hope that helps you. My wiring really starts at post 249. Also hope you get those dern holes to line up!
 
Yeah, I visited some of the links you posted about. Downloaded the diagrams, etc. I guess I could work backwards from the engine bay, clip things like injectors, etc that cannot go to the new PCM/be used by the old PCM.

So with the 400 tranny, you did not have to worry about the tranny and engine PCMs talking. My 4L80E has a separate control module that I am sure will be another can of worms, trying to get the two to speak the same language.

I also saw you also had a post about LED's. I am thinking about redoing the entire lighting with LED's (probably adding additional lighting instead of just using same fixtures, I am not trying for a stock interior at all, something more like Ryokens). Any advice there?
 
Just a thought....

Is it easier to make the current 4L80E trans controller work with the new ECM?

Or would it be better to get a wiring harness and ECM out of an LS/4L80E truck?

More thinking out loud....

You've already retro fitted a 4L80E in the truck? It has a stand alone controller? Shouldn't need much to work with the LS ECM. But I don't know what exactly. Will be watching to see what happens.
 
The problem with getting a used harness from a LS/4L80E truck is that the engine is turnkey and already has a preprogrammed PCM/ECM and its own harness that is specific to whatever sensors it has. I worry that will be a PITA and more expensive, but is definitely an option if I cannot get the current setup to work.

I have not put the 4L80E in yet, I actually have not even picked it up yet. I just looked up the PCM that I was issued by blueprint (its a GMPP product) and it said that it could not control a transmission. So I requested a stand alone unit from the tranny builder. The guys at Phoenixtrans were very helpful and knowledgeable. I am sure they can get me going. Plus a 3 year warranty that starts once the tranny actually starts being driven, not when its picked up (not sure how they verify when you actually get the project running), but you cant beat that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom