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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Engine Test Fit/Motor Mount Trouble

So the first test fit run did not clear the ORD xmember, however I was using one new motor mount and one old one. I will get into my motor mount issues next post

Engine Test Fit Fail.jpg

Engine Test Fit Fail1.jpg

Engine Test Fit Xmember Rub1.jpg

Engine Test Fit Xmember Rub2.jpg
 
Motor Mount Trouble

So I had a lot of issues with acquiring the correct motor mounts at autozone. The ones that the computer had for my vehicle looked nothing like what was on there. So I sent my wife back with the used motor mount, and she came back with one that was close, but they only had one and had to order the other. The one that came in was a different color and have rivets in it, long story short that one was wrong and finally had to go myself and turns out the motor mount for my truck is actually for a 1-ton 2wd truck exclusively made in Mexico. While the engine portion of my drivetrain was stock, I didnt bother trying to explain it to them. If your motor mounts look like mine then the attached picture of the SKU will work for your truck.

I decided to go a different route and upgrade to polyurethane inserts since the cost was practically the same.

Correct Motor Mounts.jpg

Correct Motor Mounts Pic.jpg

Correct Motor Mounts Compare.jpg

Motor Mounts Insides Compare.JPG

Motor Mounts Insides Compare3.JPG
 
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RustCure

My father bought me some of this rustcure stuff. It is hard as **** to find but works miracles. I just squirted it on motor mounts and shazam, no more rust.

Motor Mounts Cleaned w Rust Cure.JPG
 
So if the new polyurethane inserts do not work, then I guess I will just have to space up the engine with some steel plates or something
 
We got our 408 LS running the other day, probably making a little less power than what yours produced. You're going to love it. There's power everywhere and an abundance of it. I've been sold on the LS power for awhile now. Great build.
 
Why use factory style rubber mounts? Why not use some fabricated poly mounts? They would handle the power a lot better.
 
Well I am moving to poly inserts with the factory clamshell. Do you think I should go with an aftermarket mount? If so suggestions?
 
ORD and DIY4X have custom mounts available. Call them up, tell them you have the dirty dingo engine mounts and see what they can make for you.
 
Too bad about the motor mount issue cause that motor sure looks good in there! I think your fine doing the motor mounts the way you are with the poly inserts. However, the fabricated ones are pretty excellent also.
 
Motor Mount Mishap

So this is where I got on the motor mounts. Both ORD and DIY4X's motor mounts are 3" inside from ear to ear. The Dirty Dingo brackets are 4" from ear to ear.

So unless somebody has a better answer, if I want to use a competition style aftermarket motor mount, my options seem to be ...

A. Get ORD or DIY4X to build a custom lower half that is 4" wide.
B. Get ORD or DIY4X to build a custom upper half that is like dirty dingos but only 3" from ear to ear to fit their lower halves.
C. Use some sort of spacers or washers to bridge the 1" gap between the ears. This is pretty slapdick and I am not sure how well it would work both short and long term.

Suggestions?

Before the trouble with the length I was leaning towards the ORD mounts over DIY4X (even though they were almost twice as much) bc they appeared like they would position the engine slightly higher (the bolt appears to be on the upper half of the mount vs DIY4X's which appears to be centered). The main reason being that one of the large reasons I am moving to these mounts is to accommodate the new xmember.


Question

Finally I have this sensor on both sides of my engine and it does not allow me to fully utilize the dirty dingo sliding mounts. Anybody know what sensor is it? Can it be rotated left or right to accommodate the motor mount if needed?

Dirty Dingo Motor Mounts Sensor Conflict.JPG
 
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I was just tossing a suggestion at you. I'd call ord and have them build you a lower mount to match the 4" dirty dingo upper mount and to provide enough clearance for their cross member.
 
I agree. They are blind holes. I loosened and rotated them. So now I have full mobility. I guess it will come into play when I try to get the 4L80e to fit in the stock tranny xmemeber position. I know the 4L80e is longer but not by much (I think)
 
tranny_dimensions.jpg


http://www.maliburacing.com/auto_tranny_id.htm
 
I think the dirty dingo mounts can shift up to 2", so it may all be for not.
 
Motor Mount Holding Pattern

So since I have not decide what to do about the motor mounts, I decided to move forward in the only way I knew how.

After talking to ORD about the xmember fit issue, they more or less said "other people have figured it out so should you, hey buy our motor mounts, I'll bet it will work". Since I was unaware of another aftermarket xmember, and had already took mine out. I painted the ORD one red (please hold your criticism until the finish product is available for viewing), and drilled the holes. What a bitch. Bit and drill assembly were too long to go from underneath. Had to angle it from the top. Whoever said they did this with the engine in is a master craftsman/miracle worker, my hat is off to you.

But nobody is following this to hear me complain, so here is the mild progress made this morning.

Frame clean up.JPG

xmember in front view.JPG

xmember in side view.JPG
 
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