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'90 K5 - Project Betty - LS3 Swap for a DD/Offroad/Utility Build

Does DOM get a special coating??? :dunno: Ive never ordered DOM but all the other steel I order comes with the regular water soluble oil on it. I use soapy water in a spray bottle and a rag. I use to use brake cleaner too but it was getting expensive so I asked someone and thats what they told me. Been doin that ever since.
 
I am sure all the suggestions will work fine. I was using engine degreaser and paper towels. It was coming off, but a lot of work, a lot of towels, and still far from spotless.
 
you need to use a solvent, like lacquer thinner or acetone...

and the tube will have a carbon coat on it.. almost black.... as soon as you hit it with some sandpaper, you'll see that comes off and leaves silver steel...
 
Engine Covers and Unintended Consequences

This is probably a Ryoken question or one for those more apt with dealing with the pretty little details.

I ordered these engine covers, which I am really happy with other than my relocated AC interferes with them, and so does the brake booster.

My initial thoughts are that they will have to be cut to work, but the question is what tool to use to keep it from looking like crap, and how to touch up the marred edge.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Engine Covers.jpg

Engine Covers AC Clearance.jpg

Engine Covers Brake Booster Clearance.jpg

Engine Covers Brake Booster Clearance2.jpg
 
not sure what parts your removing, but if you need to cut, use a high tooth count saw at high speed with EXCEPTIONALLY slow feed speed...

if it's more of a shaving action fine cut carbide burrs in a dremel or die grinder will do you, but again, VERY slow feed speeds or it will MELT....

either way, once done you will want to wetsand the edges... maybe some 180 for initial burr removal/shaping, than some 320 and 600, little compound on a rag, voila! :haha:
 
Cage Continues, Slower Than I Would Like

So after bending a symmetrical B Pillar, I decide that I was ready to handle rotation mid-bending.

Not sure if I am really that slow or whether I was just hungover from the TCU game and trying to wash away the Ags loss to the gators, but it took a lot of mental gymnastics and mock ups before I was comfortable with making the bend. It came out ok. Probably shouldnt expect to be a master cage builder my first time around.

Driver's Side Door Support.JPG
 
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Almost Ready to Go Upside Down

Still working on the roll cage, house & baby stuff is getting in the way

Roll Cage In Progress.jpg
 
Headers

Got the headers ordered from S&P today. They have a new jig set up, so they should be able to crank them out for whoever.

Be as specific as possible, apparently spark plugs boot type and transmission selection affect their design.

I went with the 1.75" tubes over the 1.625" based on their recommendation. Not sure if it will make a poop in the long run.
 
Primary Tube Size for Headers

According to this pretty lengthy article, the 1.75" headers are more appropriately sized for my setup.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/hardcore/0505em_exh/

Best I can estimate (from public numbers), my exhaust ports should be flowing 200-215 CFM at full lift. By using the middle curve for strip/street, it intersects more closely with the 1.75" then the 1.625"

Primary Header Tube Design Chart.jpg
 
Got the headers ordered from S&P today. They have a new jig set up, so they should be able to crank them out for whoever.

Be as specific as possible, apparently spark plugs boot type and transmission selection affect their design.

I went with the 1.75" tubes over the 1.625" based on their recommendation. Not sure if it will make a poop in the long run.

Sounds like they have made some modification to them sense I got mine. I will have to look at what size mine are. Did you get them with the V claps?
 
Just like you suggested, v clamps w/ the coating.

Sounds like yours was a custom deal, but they decided to created a jig after having done yours and the LS3 K5 combo they had in the shop.

They said they are 2-3 weeks out on them right now.
 
It took almost a month to get them. They are a very nice product, you will like them. Fit with plenty of room around them. I did have to get plug wires form them that would fit their headers.
 
I was just going to wait and see how many I had to replace, to decide whether or not to buy a whole set or just a few.
 
Only the front ones will fit with straight boots as you can see.
IMG_1220.jpg
I think this are the one with 135 degree boots on them.

IMG_1220.jpg
 
JDMhub

Buyer beware with JDMhub.com. I tried order some oil coolers through them over a month ago. Haven't got them, cannot get a hold of anybody over there after numerous attempts, messages, emails, etc. Googled them, terrible BBB rating.

I havent been charged for the items, so it is not that big of a deal, but buyer beware.
 
Update

Have not made a ton of progress on the blazer, as I have been having to focus on house and baby stuff. Looks like I will have to put it on ice for at least a couple more weeks. However, the headers should be in by then, I will order more coolers, and should have all the pieces ready to go when it is time to start back up again.

Roll Cage 3.JPG
 
Just like you suggested, v clamps w/ the coating.

Sounds like yours was a custom deal, but they decided to created a jig after having done yours and the LS3 K5 combo they had in the shop.

They said they are 2-3 weeks out on them right now.

Who did you contact for them?
 
Headers are Here

I believe I have been talking to Gary about them. Everybody at S&P is very friendly, and if you tell them what you are looking for, they will get you to the right people.

Mine came last night, and I just opened them up about 5 minutes ago.

Headers On Floor.JPG
 

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