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'90 K5 "Project Sanity" Sold 7/5/2018

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Yep, sitting right next to the Beemer in the garage. I'll get back on it again in the spring I think. :waytogo:
 
Rene' will you be doing sliders or replacement rockers then?
 
I can do either really. I did replace the passenger side with the factory rocker, but it's nothing to me to hack that out and go box tube. In this climate here I think box tube is going to last longer at the very least.

Current thinking is my daughter will be driving this, as it's a lot easier than swapping the whole drivetrain in the brown pick-up and converting to 4wd.
 
Dam, she'll be diggin that I hope!
So is she OK with the sentimental part of not having the brown truck to drive then?
 
Yeah, she is good with either according to her. She finally went down and got her Alberta learners, and will apparently have to wait a year before getting her license. So we kinda have a year to get something up and running for her.
 
A year later, all it's done is collect dust...but I still have it. This may the slowest, most boring near stock build ever. :doah:

I'm gonna get back to working on it in the next few weeks. I've had a key off draw for as long as I've had this thing. Russel and I tried to find it, and failed. In the meantime half of the wiring on the truck is unplugged and undone.

It's also always had a high idle problem. I think the throttle body itself needs replacing. Wear the throttle plate rod goes through I think is just wollered out and cheating air.

So the list as I see it.

New power steering pump
New throttle body
Re-hook up the wiring.
Add a battery switch
New battery
Finish the rockers one way or the other
Better shifter for the tranny...not happy with the unimatic.

Get it inspected and insured.

Maybe some new 33" AT KO's. The 35's are a bit big for the 3.42 gears. Or, take it in and have it geared right. To be determined...
 
I've seen some pretty wasted throttle shaft bores in my day (typically on manual trans vehicles) that didn't create a high idle problem. Not saying that yours isn't, but if it were mine, I think I'd look elsewhere before spending the dough on a reman one. Usually the worn shaft bores allow the blades to seat further into the venturi bores sending IAC counts off the scale trying to compensate for the lack of minimum air. It also brings down the TPS voltage to below the recommended .5V. I usually set mine at a minimum of .75V as it seems to help throttle response and drivability in general. So while worn shaft bores are not a good thing, usually they don't contribute to a high idle condition. Just some food for thought.
 
So, what issues do cause high idle on a TBI then? The new TBI to intake gasket helped some. It has always had a 1100 rpm idle for as long as I've had it. The only time idle comes down is once it's been driven for a while, but even then if I shut it off and re-start the high idle comes back. I have no codes, and other than that it runs and drives really nice. :dunno:
 
Iac, stuck egr valve, and if someone messed with the throttle body idle screw.

Also, I love this build because of how much it resembles my "builds". I basically neverdrive them but am always think oof stuff and doing stuff to make them funner to drive! We are illogical. But the way I have justified it to myself is that some people's hobbies are collecting stamps or star wars figurines. At least our illogical hobbies can be used for some utilitarian purpose should the need ever arise.
 
Did the TBI setups even have a screw to adjust the idle, or do you have to drill out a rivet and add your own screw?
 
They had a screw that had a freeze plug type thing tapped into the opening right in front of it. Once you remove the freeze plug, you can adjust the screw.
 
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