'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

[colbystephens]

After doing a bit more research, I may need a new 1-ton master cylinder. I may not be getting enough fluid movement for the 1-ton caliper with my half-ton master. What do you all think?

Will this work: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...101984+50030+2030036+26332&Ar=AND(P_RecType:A)

Here's the list of compatible vehicles: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/BuyersGuide.aspx?LineCode=NMC&PartNumber=P2533

Says it'll fit up to a '91 Chevy V3500. Will it mate up to my Blazer? It appears to have the same connection as the Blazer model that I looked up on the NAPA site. Additionally, the Blazer MC bore is 1.125" and the 1-ton truck is 1.3125". I'm suspecting that this is the issue.

 

[496truck]

Do you have anyone helping you bleed the brakes colby?? The best way ive ever found is have someone in it, truck running, have the person press on the pedal, you open the bleeder on the clyinder and then close it, but dont let them take their foot off the pedal untill you have the bleeder tightened back in otherwise it will suck air back in the line, then signal them to take there foot off and repeat the process untill the fluid coming out is not full of bubbles. Just gotta watch the master cylinder and make sure its not getting too low and letting more air in the system. Couple of crack/bleed/tighten at all four corners always works for me. Ive tried the suction guns and found it doesnt compare to the way I described. But you need somebody to help.

That way may be what your doing but just a thought if not

Those hand pump vacuum bleeders only work when you apply thread sealer to the bleeder screw threads. Otherwise they just suck air past the threads and don't effectively bleed the brake system. After that, I find they work awesome.

 

[dhcomp]

Pickup a pressure bleeder. It will pay for itself in 2 bleeds. I can bleed new fluid through the whole burb system in less than an hour, by myself.

I have the motive one, with teh american style cap.

I had to add a good wood block and c clamp to it, but It works well.

 

[colbystephens]

After doing some more reading, I found this great link of info on Pirate about the Master Cylinder as it relates to the axle swap:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-602339.html

I'm going to go ahead and start by bringing the truck home from the shop where they were going to be doing the brake bleeding and start by replacing the MC.

 

[Russell]

Colby,

When I put the 1 tons on my Tahoe, particularly with disk brakes in the rear, I couldn't get a firm pedal out of it no matter what I did.

I put a new 1 ton 4 wheel disk master cylinder in it and suddenly had extremely good brakes. The rears are adjustable and even with them turned down as much as possible, they still lock up way before the fronts and send the truck into a skid.

I'd say a new master cylinder would probably do the trick!

 

[jekquistk5]

Colby,

When I put the 1 tons on my Tahoe, particularly with disk brakes in the rear, I couldn't get a firm pedal out of it no matter what I did.

I put a new 1 ton 4 wheel disk master cylinder in it and suddenly had extremely good brakes. The rears are adjustable and even with them turned down as much as possible, they still lock up way before the fronts and send the truck into a skid.

I'd say a new master cylinder would probably do the trick!

I had the same problem swapped MC to no avail, ended up being a defective front caliper.

 

[colbystephens]

I had the same problem swapped MC to no avail, ended up being a defective front caliper.

Well, I hope that's not the case for me. I just went out and bought a new master cylinder. Wasn't very expensive. So, I'll put that in and see what happens. At that point, calipers, hard lines, rear wheel cylinders will be the remaining old brake system components. However, the rear wheel cylinders are known to be good, as I recently was using them in my green truck. So that leaves calipers as the only question. I'm really hoping it's just the MC tho.

 

[jekquistk5]

Well, I hope that's not the case for me. I just went out and bought a new master cylinder. Wasn't very expensive. So, I'll put that in and see what happens. At that point, calipers, hard lines, rear wheel cylinders will be the remaining old brake system components. However, the rear wheel cylinders are known to be good, as I recently was using them in my green truck. So that leaves calipers as the only question. I'm really hoping it's just the MC tho.

Make sure you bench bleed that MC first.

 

[original balzer]

Wait who are you again? You couldnt be Colby, He was a honey badger! HE drove a GNARLY green blazer that wasnt for the weak of heart! Heat? A roof? Things done right? What the heck are these things you speak of? *I loved your green one dont get me wrong*

(youtube "randal honey badger") ((launguage warning))

Looks great Colby! Its nice to have a multi-functional rig and it looks like you are on the right track with this one. And its awesome you found a clean slate to start with.

I missed why you moved but I'll look around to see if I can find the story.
How is the cost of living difference?

 

[colbystephens]

Make sure you bench bleed that MC first.

I've started researching how to do that. Looks like I can install it and then run hoses from the outlet ports back into the main reservoir and pump the pedal slowly. Then, once there's no more air, install the hard lines and re-bleed the entire system. Sound about right?

Wait who are you again? You couldnt be Colby, He was a honey badger! HE drove a GNARLY green blazer that wasnt for the weak of heart! Heat? A roof? Things done right? What the heck are these things you speak of? *I loved your green one dont get me wrong*

I know! I was talking with my step dad the other day and telling him that though I know I'm definitely still young and green, I feel like an old person now that I want things like a heater, padded seats, a top that seals out the elements, etc.... haha!

Looks great Colby! Its nice to have a multi-functional rig and it looks like you are on the right track with this one. And its awesome you found a clean slate to start with.

starting with such a nice condition truck is a big improvement over my previous endeavors. Starting with the garbage I started with before put me in over my head. This way I can learn and keep it drivable. However, I am thankful I didn't start with a truck this nice and screw it up the first time!

I missed why you moved but I'll look around to see if I can find the story.
How is the cost of living difference?

Moved to Reno from Ashland, OR so my wife and I can attend the graduate program for visual fine arts here. Cost of living is about the same. We still live on the same budget we had in Oregon. I would say it could be a bit higher here if your DD was a gas pig, because Reno is not a very well laid-out city for pedestrian use. Very much a car town. We prefer to walk and bike whenever possible because we enjoy it, but that's not much of an option here. Biking is ok - but the roads aren't all set up with bike lanes and whatnot. But, we get 40 MPG in town, so we haven't really noticed our fuel bill increase at all.

 

[jekquistk5]

I've started researching how to do that. Looks like I can install it and then run hoses from the outlet ports back into the main reservoir and pump the pedal slowly. Then, once there's no more air, install the hard lines and re-bleed the entire system. Sound about right?



I know! I was talking with my step dad the other day and telling him that though I know I'm definitely still young and green, I feel like an old person now that I want things like a heater, padded seats, a top that seals out the elements, etc.... haha!



starting with such a nice condition truck is a big improvement over my previous endeavors. Starting with the garbage I started with before put me in over my head. This way I can learn and keep it drivable. However, I am thankful I didn't start with a truck this nice and screw it up the first time!



Moved to Reno from Ashland, OR so my wife and I can attend the graduate program for visual fine arts here. Cost of living is about the same. We still live on the same budget we had in Oregon. I would say it could be a bit higher here if your DD was a gas pig, because Reno is not a very well laid-out city for pedestrian use. Very much a car town. We prefer to walk and bike whenever possible because we enjoy it, but that's not much of an option here. Biking is ok - but the roads aren't all set up with bike lanes and whatnot. But, we get 40 MPG in town, so we haven't really noticed our fuel bill increase at all.

Yup, just buy some short line for both fittings and bend them into the the reservoir

 

[blazinzuk]

Just my 2 cents, the brake thing seems really weird to me.

I have done several one ton swaps, some worked better with a new master some didn't. I think it has more to do with the condition of your brakes than much else.

Horton still uses 1/2 ton stuff so did my blazer and they both stop great but it did take me a while to get the brakes completely bled because I like you had the master completely dry.

I have found it easier to actually bench bleed the master, that way I know its bled, I ground down an old phillips head screwdriver to a blunt head and that worked great. Of course if you don't have a vice, it might be hard to do

 

[colbystephens]

My MC wasn't dry. As to the condition of the brake components:

Brand New:
Front rotors
Brake Pads
Front Brake hoses

Verified good:
Hard lines
Rear brake assembly, wheel cylinders.

Unknown:
Brake calipers.

We'll see tomorrow. I do have a vice, but it's at the shop, so I'm hoping I can do it in truck, since the truck can't be at the shop.

 

[texas4x4rebel]

Just my 2 cents, the brake thing seems really weird to me.

I have done several one ton swaps, some worked better with a new master some didn't. I think it has more to do with the condition of your brakes than much else.

Horton still uses 1/2 ton stuff so did my blazer and they both stop great but it did take me a while to get the brakes completely bled because I like you had the master completely dry.

Mine still seem to be fine after the one ton swap also or maybe even a little better.

 

[owenst7]

You can use my vice Colby. I have a new but 1/2 ton master and the 3.5" rear drums. My truck will make you hit your face on the steering wheel if you aren't paying attention.

Are the rear shoes adjusted out correctly? Are the wheel cylinders good? Just thinking of easy things to investigate. If you're not getting good braking in the front or rear though, its probably the MC bleeding past the piston. Can you pump the pressure up at all by stepping on it repeatedly really fast?

Here's an idea, pick up a couple line plugs (anywhere that sells parts has them. Plug off the MC where the lines come out. You should get a real damn firm pedal if nothing's wrong with it. I know you're doing this in the dirt and wind so that would be quick troubleshooting without tearing stuff apart.hell, I should get a couple plugs for the trail I'm case I ever fubar a line or something on the trail.

 

[colbystephens]

"owenst7" came over this morning and helped me swap out the MC and re-bleed the brakes. Went real smooth. Truck stops properly now. So, I drove it to school today. I am taking it real easy. It definitely doesn't handle the same, which is to be expected - particularly since I have no shocks on it yet! That means that next week I can take it out to the exhaust shop and get that rerouted. Then, I'll have the front driveline lengthened. After that, I'll be able to flex it out and measure for shocks.

Can't say for sure if my brake issue was MC related or brake bleed related, but at 200,180 miles on the truck I feel good about having a new MC anyway - and it was cheap.

Still need to fully grease the front steering components, as my gun doesn't seem to do the job well. Additionally, I need to wire up the parking brake.

Also, today I ordered a 180* die for 1.25" tube for my tubing bender. My wife is showing a painting in San Francisco in about a month, and her painting weighs 600 pounds, made up of 12 panels, 8'x4' each. So, the roof rack is getting pushed up on the list of to-dos.

 

[kgblazerfive]

Sounds like a trailer would be a better idea, not sure the fiberglass would do very well at supporting 600 lbs all the way to San Fran.

However buying a new die is a good idea anyway.

 

[colbystephens]

The design that I have for the lumber rack should be plenty stout to hold that kind of weight. I am going to distribute the load down the sides, and also to the bolts that hold the top on. I wouldn't hesitate to expect that the 4 200 pound guys like myself could stand one at each corner of the hard top, and that load isn't even distributed how I intend. That example obviously doesn't take into account wind forces pushing the load around, or pulling forces going around corners - but the rest of my design should work that out ok. More on that later.

 

[Deuling]

Wtf colby. We get like 3 pics of it and now u hold out on us... Lol

 

[colbystephens]

There's no pics to be had yet. Hopefully next weekend I can take it out into the desert and then there'll be more.