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'90 K5 - The Nevada Blazer [Post 1437: School me on alternators)

AJMBLAZER said:
Nice work man.


The pic of the two trucks next to each other didn't come through.

With the several comments on the brake lines being short...consider getting longer ones?
Click to expand...

Fixed, forgot to put the picture in. :doah:

Mostly, it's a matter of money. I've spent a ton on the truck so far, and these brake lines cost me $44. Now, if I go for longer ones, I'm looking at another $100 to $120, bringing brake line cost to $150ish averaged. Additionally, I need to buy shocks still. So, since I have tons of flex as is, I'm not worried about it for now. I am going to use my old 5-point harness straps as my limit straps, so adjusting those for length at a later time is no biggie. Anyway, it just prevents me from dropping another $100 on the truck right now and can be dealt with in the future as needed.
 
Colby, that is the best looking 2wd Blazer I've seen in a long time :whistle: :D





It really has turned out awesome :waytogo: , looking forward to seeing some great wheeling pics soon !
 
jt512 said:
Colby, that is the best looking 2wd Blazer I've seen in a long time :whistle: :D
Click to expand...


:haha: I know! AGH! I was so frustrated with myself for having forgotten to get those u-joint straps. Not really a big deal, as I didn't need it today, but dammit, I feel like a nerd driving around without a front d-shaft in there. I notice when they are missing on penis-pride trucks, don't want to be perceived that way... not that it matters, I suppose. :rolleyes:
 
Penis pride! Ha! Never heard that one before. It is funny though seeing trucks like this and thinking "His poor wife... His tool must be nearly non existent!"

truck3.jpg


EDIT: Sorry to clog up your thread Colby but in searching for a big ghey truck i found this truck, in this thread! Quite the bit of comedy. One of those things where you think, Is it funny or sad? Like do they actually need psychological help? Or is it just cool and normal and im just narrow minded?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f59/ridiculously-huge-truck-thread-1093334/

truck041.jpg
 
On something like that second one, it makes me wonder why go to the expense of using springs at all? Why not just weld some pieces of square tube between the axle and the frame. With enough triangulation...
 
I picked up a couple shocks for the front. I went with some 10" travel Bilstein 5100s. After spending significant time looking at different Bilstein shocks, it looks like I would have to move my upper shock mount to run a longer shock, as they don't have any shocks that are longer than 10" travel and still fit my stock location constraints. It is appealing to me to move the shock mount - in fact, I'd like to build some tubular shock hoops that connect to each other with a tube over the engine. But, I don't want to have to do that right now. So, I'm going this route for now. Should be still a great set up for a good long time. I figure when I replace these shocks in the future, I'll have an opportunity to do it then, and replace the front brake lines with something longer so I can really use the full flex of my suspension.

I also had ordered a set of bump stops, but it turns out they're not the style I wanted to use. I think I'm going to order these:

PR191311BL_lg.png


Should be easy to mount up in the truck. I should've measured how long of a drop mount I'll have to build to mount these, but I can do that this weekend before I install the shocks. At that time, I'll check the steering clearance, as I forgot to look at that when flexed out last time. :D

I decided that for the time being, the sucky sucky rear shocks I had previously will work for a time. I don't see that much shock travel in the rear, so it should be good, and it'll keep me from spending $200 more right now that I'd rather hang on to.

Finally, I got my 1.25" die in the mail yesterday, as well as my modified DRAC unit. So, hoping to start on the lumber rack on Saturday and will get the DRAC installed to get my speedo gauge working well.
 
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colbystephens said:
I picked up a couple shocks for the front. I went with some 10" travel Bilstein 5100s. After spending significant time looking at different Bilstein shocks, it looks like I would have to move my upper shock mount to run a longer shock, as they don't have any shocks that are longer than 10" travel and still fit my stock location constraints. It is appealing to me to move the shock mount - in fact, I'd like to build some tubular shock hoops that connect to each other with a tube over the engine. But, I don't want to have to do that right now. So, I'm going this route for now. Should be still a great set up for a good long time. I figure when I replace these shocks in the future, I'll have an opportunity to do it then, and replace the front brake lines with something longer so I can really use the full flex of my suspension.

I also had ordered a set of bump stops, but it turns out they're not the style I wanted to use. I think I'm going to order these:

PR191311BL_lg.png


Should be easy to mount up in the truck. I should've measured how long of a drop mount I'll have to build to mount these, but I can do that this weekend before I install the shocks. At that time, I'll check the steering clearance, as I forgot to look at that when flexed out last time. :D

I decided that for the time being, the sucky sucky rear shocks I had previously will work for a time. I don't see that much shock travel in the rear, so it should be good, and it'll keep me from spending $200 more right now that I'd rather hang on to.

Finally, I got my 1.25" die in the mail yesterday, as well as my modified DRAC unit. So, hoping to start on the lumber rack on Saturday and will get the DRAC installed to get my speedo gauge working well.
Click to expand...

What size bump? 2, 3, 4???

never mind I see those say 4 1/2 on top :) Do those come in pairs? I was thinking about going with these
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspen...OU/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1328815519&sr=8-20
 
Yes, sold as pairs. The reason I went with the ones I did versus the ones you posted is that I wanted to have 2 mounting bolts per bump rather than just the one. Seems like there's going to be lots of leverage on them.
 
Hey Colby for brake lines I run the 88-98 C1500 lines from Napa. The part number is in the Part #'s thread somewhere.

They are pretty long. I also moved the hard point from coming through the frame to below the frame. I just built a small L bracket and drilled a hole to lock the hard line in place.

I can just barely max them out with my 52's. They were around $20 each IIRC.

rock.jpg
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
Hey Colby for brake lines I run the 88-98 C1500 lines from Napa. The part number is in the Part #'s thread somewhere.

They are pretty long. I also moved the hard point from coming through the frame to below the frame. I just built a small L bracket and drilled a hole to lock the hard line in place.

I can just barely max them out with my 52's. They were around $20 each IIRC.
Click to expand...

Great info! Thanks! :)

In other news, today's projects didn't go my way. :doah: Some days it just sucks, I guess.

I picked up some 1/2" bolts for my new shocks today because I'm 98% sure I read online that these shocks have a 1/2" hole. Nope. I'm pretty sure it's 12mm, though I'm going to check for a 13mm when I go back to the hardware store. So that was disappointing.

Then I went to install my front driveshaft, as I picked up a set of u-joint straps. Well, the ones they sold me just wouldn't fit. I figured that out in the parking lot, at least. Then I had to deal with their crappy ass customer service while they FINALLY got me the right part. Aggravating when the guy is helping you, answers the phone, gets distracted and never comes back to finish what he started. Another guy had to fill in after taking care of 3 other people in line behind me.

I went up to install it, and it turns out the threads were pretty dang rusty and full of crud in the yoke. I figured I should've run a tap through them, but didn't have one so I figured if I went slow I could get it all taken care of. I'm tightening down the last bolt, and guess what?! I snap the damn thing off in the yoke. :doah: So now I have to figure out how to pull it back out, or take it somewhere to have them do it. For the frustration factor, I might just have the mechanic across the street do it.

Additionally, the art work I was doing today didn't go my way either, and it looks like crap.

Ugggh. :( Oh well. Tomorrow's a new day.

I should say that one thing did go ok today. I got my limit straps installed, and I'll adjust them tomorrow to the proper droop. Worked out pretty slick. I'm using the old shoulder straps from my 5 point harness.
 
Ok, I need opinions. I don't think that removing that broken bolt is going to be something I'm going to be able to do, at least not with retaining my sanity. So it would got to a shop, but they'll probably spend a couple hours on it too, which would suck to pay for.

So, I'm thinking about upgrading my yoke to a 1350 or something with a better angle. I was thinking about pricing it out at the same shop that built my driveshaft. Since the u-joint they installed is still unused, perhaps they'd sell me the yoke and swap out a conversion joint for the front. :dunno:

This is a stupid problem.

EDIT:
Found the following information on Pirate:
Joint Op. Angle Torque
1310 30 130 800
1330 20 150 890
1350 20 210 1240
1410 37 250 1500

Not sure what is on a stock Dana 60, but I believe it's a 1330. :dunno: Now, it looks like going to a 1410 yoke will be my best move for angle. What's on a 14 bolt? 1410? If so, that'd be cool, because then I could carry just one spare UJ. Thoughts?

EDIT 2:
Found on HAD's website that they say the 1410 yoke is capable of 28 degrees. That's a big difference. Anyone know why?
 
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I think its because the "ears" are so much further apart that you have to rotate them further before they hit each other.
 
The front 60 is the same size yoke as a d44/10 bolt, its a 1310. The rear 14 bolt is 1350 stock.

The 1350 has the same sized cap as a 1410, the 1410 has a bigger cross section, but it takes up more space.
 
Im running the same brake lines as mtblazer89 with the same setup below the frame.

My 15" travel shock setup with 4" uptravel will max out before I run out of brake line.
 
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