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91 Suburban V2500 - Tow/Weekend Rig - Build Thread

Well, after Scott's suggestion of just welding a piece of metal to the old pan, drilling and tapping it, I went ahead and did just that. So my sensor will be on the drivers side right before the big harness connector. This way I can run the wire right up with the loom.

One of the things the BM gauge installation instructions said was to put it on the return line so you could see how well the cooler was working. I guess as long as the fluid is about 175 or so, you know your good.
 
Well, after Scott's suggestion of just welding a piece of metal to the old pan, drilling and tapping it, I went ahead and did just that. So my sensor will be on the drivers side right before the big harness connector. This way I can run the wire right up with the loom.

One of the things the BM gauge installation instructions said was to put it on the return line so you could see how well the cooler was working. I guess as long as the fluid is about 175 or so, you know your good.


Good work. Now that you have the kinks worked you, come do mine :D

Mine will probably stay as is for a while, temp gauge in the wrong place is still 100x better than no temp gauge at all.
 
Good work. Now that you have the kinks worked you, come do mine :D

Mine will probably stay as is for a while, temp gauge in the wrong place is still 100x better than no temp gauge at all.


Well, I do have the pan off of my old tranny I could weld up and send to you for the cost of shipping plus a cold one beer, so long as you send me yours back once you install this one. :D


An BTW: I need to thank you on the tranny cooler write up. I used your location and mounts. Made that part a 20 minute job! The only thing I did differently was to run hard lines.

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Nice! I like that idea. I'll send you a pm.

And your hardlines look awesome.
 
Hey, just a heads up but your PM email box is full. hehe.

dhcomp has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space.
 
V1 Hardwire and Gentex Mirror Install

Hey Guys,

Sorry for the delay on this writeup. The Gentex mirror with Temp and Compass rocks, but i fried the speaker in my V1 somehow, so i was angry after this project.

I decided it was time to add a temp/compass mirror from a newer chevy. The 96-99 ones will work, but i liked the display style on the 2000+ ones better. I ordered mine from Ebay, make sure to get one that looks just like you want. Some have onstar buttons on them, some have warnings about the front seat airbag, etc. Also, just cause there is a screen, doesn't mean its temp AND compass, and i wanted both. Mine cost about $50 after shipping. This was MIRROR only. Then, i ordered the temp probe harness from ebay also.
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Unfortunately, the mirror button nub thing on the glass was the wrong one for this mirror. Napa sells them, and i think the one i needed was marked for a chrysler, but i forget, sorry. I used a heat gun to heat the old one up til it fell off, then had to try and re-glue the new one 2 or 3 times. Not fun to repeat, but the key is to use just a DROP of adhesive, not too much. Anyways, new glass nub was required, but no big deal.

Most GM's have the temp probe mounted on the core support behind the grill. I was smart and thought ahead, and mounted it when i had the grill removed to install my trans cooler. For ease of wiring, i placed it behind the middle bar of the grill, under the headlights, on the driver side.

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You can see where i marked, and cut a 1" horizontal slit for the temp probe clip.

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Bare metal painted, probe clipped in, and wire zip tied.

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Better view of location.

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With parking lens installed





Ok, onto overhead wiring. In order to power the Valentine1, i needed to properly power a RJ12 phone line receptacle. I mounted this plug on the front edge of the overhead console, so that i could run a short wire from the V1 on the windshield directly up.
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Plenty of dead space in the front for wiring.

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Marked for Cut

Basically, i drilled 2 holes, and squared it out with a file til the RJ12 extension piece fit snugly. I used a female to female extension piece, that would be used to extend an existing phone line. Painted the front half black.

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Finished product. Not as crooked as it looks in the pic. From the back of that connector, i ran a phone line with the mirror wiring across the ceiling (under headliner), to drivers side pillar, into dash, and out under hood where new fuse block was being added.


Ok, so onto the Mirror.
The mirror requires key power, ground, 2 wires for temp probe, and a wire to the backup circuit. It is an autodimming mirror, and doesn't autodim while in reverse in order to help you see when backing up. You must hookup this wire, or the autodim will not work properly.

In order to run wires from the mirror up into the console, i heat shrink'd a wire hanger into the wiring harness, so i could bend it as i saw fit.
I ran 2 4 wire runs for the mirror, the phone cable for the V1, and some extra wire for other accessories i may add to the overhead console. The extra wire got jammed into the front space above the console.

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Once the mirror was mounted, and wires ran, this is what it looked like before console install.
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Finished product:
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Not really sure where i went wrong with the V1 wiring, but it has to do with some phone wires being crossed, and some being straight through. A land line phone doesn't care what cable you use, but obviously if one wire carries 12v, and one ground, and you mix them up, you have problems. Even when properly wired, i couldn't get it to work, so i decided to just order the hardwire kit from V1 and stop screwing around with my homebrew adapter. Haven't installed that one yet.

Once the mirror was up and running, i searched programming/calibration instructions online. Not too hard to do, and it works well! Good accurate readings from the temp probe too! One more accessory that makes this truck feel not-so-old!


Sorry for the crappy writeup, short on time tonight, but wanted to get it done. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
Also, thanks to Tim (Cuervo), for helping me get my trans temp probe moved to the pan, where it should be. He welded a piece of steel to an extra pan he had, and drilled and tapped it for the probe. Even painted the pan for me! Shipped it out, i swapped it, and will be sending my old pan back in return.

What a guy! I'll take a quick photo once i know its not leaking. He put the probe towards the drivers side rear on the side of the pan.

Thanks tim!
 
Also, thanks to Tim (Cuervo), for helping me get my trans temp probe moved to the pan, where it should be. He welded a piece of steel to an extra pan he had, and drilled and tapped it for the probe. Even painted the pan for me! Shipped it out, i swapped it, and will be sending my old pan back in return.

What a guy! I'll take a quick photo once i know its not leaking. He put the probe towards the drivers side rear on the side of the pan.

Thanks tim!


Finally towed with the new temp gauge sending unit position. Low load, registered about 180, went up to about 200 degrees the rest of the time. Didn't move about that.

I figure thats where it should be, as it swaps heat with the engine cooling that is at about that temp. What says everyone else?

I figure if it stays at 200 and doesn't rise at all, i'm good to go.
 
I always heard that was about right.

With the gauge in whatever fluid line it was in before, it would rarely move up to "1/4", where 200 is about 1/2.

Anyways, better to have it in the right place.
 
With the gauge in whatever fluid line it was in before, it would rarely move up to "1/4", where 200 is about 1/2.

Anyways, better to have it in the right place.


And either way, the cooler install and temp gauge lets you know that it's going to 300 any longer!

Nice job. :waytogo:
 
nice truck man, great detailed build..

I have the same transmission cooler as you have, and I uselessly spent the last 4 days searching for an online source to get those fittings you have to fit it. any guidance is appreciated!!

regards,
 
nice truck man, great detailed build..

I have the same transmission cooler as you have, and I uselessly spent the last 4 days searching for an online source to get those fittings you have to fit it. any guidance is appreciated!!

regards,

There are plenty of fittings online, my method was just the cheapest. Use the part numbers that i suggested from Scott.
 
I'll work it out tomorrow..

how do those BFG tires sound on road? and how they perform off road? on sand? I like how they look and thinking to get a set.
 
People love these tires. I don't have much off road time on them (ok, any), but everyone likes them. Think they do ok air'd down in the sand. Not too noisy on the road either.

Good luck!
 
I'll work it out tomorrow..

how do those BFG tires sound on road? and how they perform off road? on sand? I like how they look and thinking to get a set.


I've got a set of BFG All Terrains on my Suburban and road noise is very little. I had an 83 Ford 4x4 and I bought a brand new set of BFG All Terrains for it and off road they were great. I put probably 50,000 miles on those tires with about 15,000 miles offroad and I never cut a tire or had any tread problems. Great tires in my opinion.
 
Ok, so way past due for an update.

I had to move, and haven't been spending quality time working on the truck at all.

Been beating the hell out of it towing weekends, and thats about it.

Had an oil pressure sending unit go bad, which scared me into thinking i cooked the motor. Ended up just needing a sending unit.

Besides that, i replaced the knob for the center console, that was a big fiasco.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=272379&highlight=center+console+knob

Also, decided to finally do something regarding my knarly exhaust leak. Installed Flowtech shorty headers per 4x4high's recomendation.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-91830FLT/

They are for a 92+ truck, but there arent' many shorties for our trucks. Headers were reasonably priced, and I figured it they were good enough for scott, they were good enough for me.

I ended up not having to grind the frame, although i plugged the O2 bung and ground it down a little far. The plug may not stay in, but time will tell. Had to get a new ypipe bent, as well as get an o2 bung installed in the ypipe.

Ended up with everything done for about $500. I have some good remflex gaskets, but they showed up after i installed them, so i'll add them later.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273922&highlight=manifold+brand

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Overall, i'm SO GLAD i fixed this problem. Didn't realize how awful my leak had gotten. Truck sounds/runs SO much better. And has noticeably more torque off idle - whether that is cause of the fixed leak, or the headers, or both is unknown.

Actually broke a tire loose out of a driveway recently!

Getting ready to tow on it this weekend for the first time since the headers.

Have decided i need to Regear to 4.10's, but don't' really want to put the money into my 14sf, so we'll see what i can find used. Would love a 14ff with some sort of selectable locker, but won't spend the money to do that right now.

Hope to get some pics posted of the headers, ypipe, etc soon.

Thanks for reading!
 
Well, no pictures. But during my pre-roadtrip check, i found a sloppy u joint. Had been meaning to check it, as i was getting some drive line slack, and sure enough, time to change.

They were nice spicer units in there too, wonder how long they lasted.

So, never done ujoints before. Picked up what they had at kragen, as that was all i had time for. (masterpro) Took me about an hour to do both on the rear drive shaft. REALLY glad i bought an extra one, as i f'd up the needle bearings in at least 3 of the caps on the "extra" ones. Didn't really figure out the best way to start the caps on properly until after a few tries.

Got it done though!

Took it for a test drive, and i guess my old ones were worse than i though (i see a trend here). NO driveline slop when driving or on hard shifts, less slop when shifting into year. Not bad for $30 and an hour.

Ready to drag the boat up to tahoe tomorrow. I'll let you know how the headers do.
 
Made it back. Truck runs soo much better with the headers, but i (obviously) still need to swap to 4.10's.

Burned a plug wire on the way up, but thats what i get for not properly double checking the routing after the header install.

Got a check engine light off and on, forget the codes, but O2 related. Going to try a new sensor, and hope its not the sensor being in a different location that is causing the problems.

Besides that, need to figure out why my brakes suck. Readjusted the rears last week, seems like i may have a slight leak somewhere i need to find ASAP. Who likes brake work in my area? Tired of rebleeding all the time.
 
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