I just got a Dual headunit with built in HD radio among other things. Intrigued to see how it works. Have to get The Blazer back first.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
91 Suburban V2500 - Tow/Weekend Rig - Build Thread
- Thread starter dhcomp
- Start date
Hell, Dual built everything in. HD, Bluetooth, Ipod controls and stuff, MP3/USB, etc.
I started reading the manual and oy, I barely grasp about half of it. All that and it cost me $159.
Someone on here was trying to sell me on their store's brands and oy, $80 more, less features, and they're all add ons. "Dual is cheap junk". Okay, whatever.
I started reading the manual and oy, I barely grasp about half of it. All that and it cost me $159.
Someone on here was trying to sell me on their store's brands and oy, $80 more, less features, and they're all add ons. "Dual is cheap junk". Okay, whatever.
I gotta go more name brand than dual personally, but yah, sounds like lots of good features.
Just emailed with the 12voltguy, super quick response, and my dual battery kit will go out on monday!
Just emailed with the 12voltguy, super quick response, and my dual battery kit will go out on monday!
I've had a Dual in Big Ugly since spring 2007. Not as flashy as the big names but hey, it works, has the same or better features and ratings, and was cheaper. Gotta remember at some point someone was going, "Pio who? "Kenwha?"
Yah, i guess. I think i only paid like $140 for my sony though, with 3 sets of 4.4v preouts. For someone just powering a couple speakers, Dual will probably do the trick. Mine have all been teh basis for a full install, so ive always opted for something nicer.
Mine has amp outputs as well.
I'm still amazed at how close our Suburbans look to one another.
Thats cause we have good taste.
Damn! I just noticed you have the remote mirrors! Sweet. Do they still work?
Haha, yep, they work perfect.
And we've covered this before:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2577974&postcount=315
haha
And we've covered this before:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2577974&postcount=315
haha
Ok, Dual Battery setup!
Got the kit from 12voltguy.com
Overall, very impressed with the kit. Very well put together, wires labeled, nice craftsmanship on the panel.
Even included hex head screws and nut serts with an install tool to mount the panel.
The Instructions aren't' impressive at all, but the wires are labeled well enough to be able to figure it out. The instructions seem to tell why he wired it the way he did, and how it works, rather than how to hook it up. Oh well.
Here's the kit:
I already had the factory 2nd battery tray that i added, so all i needed to install it was a 2nd neg cable, and battery post clamps. Ended up getting a 2gauge neg cable (53 in, way too long) and marine terminals from walmart for less than $20. Hard to beat that!
Here's the panel with the bicolor LED, there wasn't a pic on his website:
The kit is basically a switch, LED, and large relay to connect/disconnect the 2 batteries. But for $140ish, it was worth it to me to have a nice setup instead of piecing it together myself. I ran the long red cable from the stock battery, under the bottom of the core support, and up the other side. The length of this cable limited where i coudl put the relay, but ended up being really pleased with where i put it. I mounted it low on the core support, right beside the radiator. Its a little lower than i wanted it, but i had an elec. panel for the light relay mod above it, and didnt' want to rewire it.
Here you can see the bolt heads under the grill. I ended up painting the heads, but they lie directly behind the main cross piece, so you'd never see them anyways.
2nd battery in a stock tray from a diesel:
Next dilemma was where to put the control panel. As you know, my interior appears stock, so i didn't want to change that. Didn't want to wire to the console, and already have used the ash tray panel (see below). Ended up making a custom switch panel thing for the glove box.
My first try was for a small metal bracket, but it ended up fitting wierd, and there wasn't enough room for the mounting screws. Plus, i was going to have to glue it down. Guess i'm not that good at metal fab. Here is the design i scrapped.
After fighting with the metal, is started looking for some sort of bend plastic i could easily attach in the glove box.
I started with this clear organizer box that came from some harbor freight heat shrink tubing:
Started modifying:
Used the lid to make a side cover, attached with hot glue (classy, i know
)
I didn't feel like trying to paint plastic, so i covered the side panel with electrical tape, and put some textured black plastic over the front. Actually impressed with how it came out. Yes, the tape is ghetto, but its in the glovebox, does the job, and ITS A TRUCK. Haha.
Finished product, with switch plate mounted:
Back:
I mounted it in the glovebox with 2 screws from the outside in the side, and 1 through the top. I made it wide enough to fit the switch panel, but narrow enough that the manual still fits in the glovebox.
Each battery connects to a main termal on the relay, then a trigger wire from the switch and a ground also connect to the relay.
A 2nd battery wire and the trigger go inside to the switch panel, which also gets connected to an ign wire (must be hot during cranking too), and a ground.
Overall, happy with the product, and with the install. In Normal mode, the green LED lights, and the batteries are disconnected unless the ignition is on. This means when the key is on, and the truck is running, both batteries are being charged. Center is off, which allows it to work like stock (no 2nd battery), and emergency mode connects the 2 together to jump start a totally dead battery. What is cool is that if you drain down your main battery with the stereo, etc, you don't even have to hit the switch to start the truck, it automatically connects the 2 batteries when you turn the key to start it.
Only think i really don't like is that the normal mode green LED stays on all the time. Not large enough of a draw on the 2nd battery to matter, but still, i would have preferred that it was only on with the ignition.
Overall, glad i purchased it, spent more time than i wanted to making a switch location, but oh well. Can't wait to try it out!
Thanks for reading!
Got the kit from 12voltguy.com
Overall, very impressed with the kit. Very well put together, wires labeled, nice craftsmanship on the panel.
Even included hex head screws and nut serts with an install tool to mount the panel.
The Instructions aren't' impressive at all, but the wires are labeled well enough to be able to figure it out. The instructions seem to tell why he wired it the way he did, and how it works, rather than how to hook it up. Oh well.
Here's the kit:
I already had the factory 2nd battery tray that i added, so all i needed to install it was a 2nd neg cable, and battery post clamps. Ended up getting a 2gauge neg cable (53 in, way too long) and marine terminals from walmart for less than $20. Hard to beat that!
Here's the panel with the bicolor LED, there wasn't a pic on his website:
The kit is basically a switch, LED, and large relay to connect/disconnect the 2 batteries. But for $140ish, it was worth it to me to have a nice setup instead of piecing it together myself. I ran the long red cable from the stock battery, under the bottom of the core support, and up the other side. The length of this cable limited where i coudl put the relay, but ended up being really pleased with where i put it. I mounted it low on the core support, right beside the radiator. Its a little lower than i wanted it, but i had an elec. panel for the light relay mod above it, and didnt' want to rewire it.
Here you can see the bolt heads under the grill. I ended up painting the heads, but they lie directly behind the main cross piece, so you'd never see them anyways.
2nd battery in a stock tray from a diesel:
Next dilemma was where to put the control panel. As you know, my interior appears stock, so i didn't want to change that. Didn't want to wire to the console, and already have used the ash tray panel (see below). Ended up making a custom switch panel thing for the glove box.
My first try was for a small metal bracket, but it ended up fitting wierd, and there wasn't enough room for the mounting screws. Plus, i was going to have to glue it down. Guess i'm not that good at metal fab. Here is the design i scrapped.
After fighting with the metal, is started looking for some sort of bend plastic i could easily attach in the glove box.
I started with this clear organizer box that came from some harbor freight heat shrink tubing:
Started modifying:
Used the lid to make a side cover, attached with hot glue (classy, i know
)
I didn't feel like trying to paint plastic, so i covered the side panel with electrical tape, and put some textured black plastic over the front. Actually impressed with how it came out. Yes, the tape is ghetto, but its in the glovebox, does the job, and ITS A TRUCK. Haha.
Finished product, with switch plate mounted:
Back:
I mounted it in the glovebox with 2 screws from the outside in the side, and 1 through the top. I made it wide enough to fit the switch panel, but narrow enough that the manual still fits in the glovebox.
Each battery connects to a main termal on the relay, then a trigger wire from the switch and a ground also connect to the relay.
A 2nd battery wire and the trigger go inside to the switch panel, which also gets connected to an ign wire (must be hot during cranking too), and a ground.
Overall, happy with the product, and with the install. In Normal mode, the green LED lights, and the batteries are disconnected unless the ignition is on. This means when the key is on, and the truck is running, both batteries are being charged. Center is off, which allows it to work like stock (no 2nd battery), and emergency mode connects the 2 together to jump start a totally dead battery. What is cool is that if you drain down your main battery with the stereo, etc, you don't even have to hit the switch to start the truck, it automatically connects the 2 batteries when you turn the key to start it.
Only think i really don't like is that the normal mode green LED stays on all the time. Not large enough of a draw on the 2nd battery to matter, but still, i would have preferred that it was only on with the ignition.
Overall, glad i purchased it, spent more time than i wanted to making a switch location, but oh well. Can't wait to try it out!
Thanks for reading!
Ash Tray Panel,
Ok, so my truck didn't have the ash try in the center pull down location when i got it. No big deal, got one used, but it was gross. Ended up using this location for a switch to turn the radio on w/o the key.
Then, down the line, i put a trans temp gauge there temporarily.
While making the dual battery panel today, i finally made a proper panel for these items.
Here is how it looked for the last few months. Didn't have motivation to fix it, because the gauge fit snug and didn't move around.
In order to fit the mounting bracket for the gauge, i had to modify the metal some. Used a sanding drum on a dremel.
I used the same textured black plastic i used for the other switch panel.
Used a circle cutter from harbor freight to make the hole in the plastic panel. For those who have never used a Fly cutter, be careful. You really shouldnt' use these w/o a drill press...but it was thin plastic, so i used my cordless. They catch often, but this one had 2 opposing arms, so it was a little easier to balance. Nice thing was i could adjust the hole to just the right size. Anyways, for the price, it was perfect. Hole saws are expensive, and not really necessary for this.
Heres the final product, installed. The gauge mounting ring ended up fitting so snug that i didn't attach the panel with screws. I didn't have the screws i wanted, and there wasn't much metal to attach to anyways. If is shifts, i'll attach it later, but if not, it is gonna stay as is. Took a few tries to get the gauge where i wanted, and get the cig lighter hole lined up, but overall, i like how it came out.
Both ash tray panel, and dual battery panel in glove box:
My favorite thing about these locations is that once the glove box and ash tray are closed, the interior looks factory.
Sneak peek at next electrical project:
Ordered 2 of these volt meters off of ebay, plan to make some sort of wired battery status panel i can stash away when not needed. Would like to be able to keep tabs of the status of both batteries when i run parties and stuff off of my rig.
They are about 3.5" wide, and 2 of them shipped was like $12. What have i got to lose?
Ok, so my truck didn't have the ash try in the center pull down location when i got it. No big deal, got one used, but it was gross. Ended up using this location for a switch to turn the radio on w/o the key.
Then, down the line, i put a trans temp gauge there temporarily.
While making the dual battery panel today, i finally made a proper panel for these items.
Here is how it looked for the last few months. Didn't have motivation to fix it, because the gauge fit snug and didn't move around.
In order to fit the mounting bracket for the gauge, i had to modify the metal some. Used a sanding drum on a dremel.
I used the same textured black plastic i used for the other switch panel.
Used a circle cutter from harbor freight to make the hole in the plastic panel. For those who have never used a Fly cutter, be careful. You really shouldnt' use these w/o a drill press...but it was thin plastic, so i used my cordless. They catch often, but this one had 2 opposing arms, so it was a little easier to balance. Nice thing was i could adjust the hole to just the right size. Anyways, for the price, it was perfect. Hole saws are expensive, and not really necessary for this.
Heres the final product, installed. The gauge mounting ring ended up fitting so snug that i didn't attach the panel with screws. I didn't have the screws i wanted, and there wasn't much metal to attach to anyways. If is shifts, i'll attach it later, but if not, it is gonna stay as is. Took a few tries to get the gauge where i wanted, and get the cig lighter hole lined up, but overall, i like how it came out.
Both ash tray panel, and dual battery panel in glove box:
My favorite thing about these locations is that once the glove box and ash tray are closed, the interior looks factory.
Sneak peek at next electrical project:
Ordered 2 of these volt meters off of ebay, plan to make some sort of wired battery status panel i can stash away when not needed. Would like to be able to keep tabs of the status of both batteries when i run parties and stuff off of my rig.
They are about 3.5" wide, and 2 of them shipped was like $12. What have i got to lose?
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
That's a pretty slick setup. I'm curious as to why you didn't put the dual battery switch in the center console where it would be easier to reach. It seems to me like it would be a PITA to switch between normal and emer. with it as far away as it is.
I like the trans temp guage though. I was going to do a similar thing with my switch for my KC's, but I just installed the switch under the dash. After seeing how good that looks, I might just go ahead and do it anyway.
I like the trans temp guage though. I was going to do a similar thing with my switch for my KC's, but I just installed the switch under the dash. After seeing how good that looks, I might just go ahead and do it anyway.
I thought about this, but with the way the setup works, they only time you'd need emergency mode is if the primary was TOTALLY dead. Emergency is only needed if the primary is too dead to click the combiner relay. If the main battery is just normal dead/low, it automatically combines when you turn the key on to start the truck.
So really, i will rarely touch the switch. And for something i will need to flip that rarely, i decided to mount where i wanted it rather than more convenient.
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
Gotcha, makes sense to me.
Roof Rack
So, a retroactive update to help complete my build thread.
I needed a ski rack, and as luck woudl have it, my parents got rid of our barecrafters gutter mount rack after we got rid of our 90, cause who would buy that old of a truck agian?
So, on my college budget the year i bought the truck, i started looking. Really don't use a roof rack for anything else, so i started look for just a gutter mount ski rack.
Found a barecrafters rack off of an accord, no keys, picked it up for $20. Ordered keys from whoever bought barecrafters, still had NOS keys, cost me less than $15.
Next, extended the center section as far as it woudl go, pounded the radius curve flat, and it BARELY spanned the gutters on teh burb. Went to put skis up the first time, and the bindings hit the roof
New center section had to be built. I realized this thursday night, going on a weekend trip with 8 in the burb with skis on friday. Early morning in the engineering machine shop, i fabbed a new center section. Peaked, so that i had the most binding clearance. With regular width skis, put in the rack as pairs (both skis clipped together), i can fit 8 pair as long as the bindings clear the roof.
Took it up to tahoe, worked great, but kinda flimsy, and since i had other gear strapped to it (did i mention 8 ppl and gear in the truck), i wanted it stronger.
The following season, i connected the front/rear sections with some thin square tube i had. Didn't have access to a mig, and suck at my arc, so i just cut the tube open, drilled holes in the flanges, and bolted it up. Strongest rack ever? no. Way strong enough to serve its job? YES!
Used some eyelets as bolts so i had somethign to put some straps or a net on. As soon as i find a good gear basket, i will install that in the middle space.
Besides that though, it works great!
I don't currently have pics of it mounted on the rig, but will when it put it back up. Sorry for lack of progress pics, all I have is the final product.
Here it is! Not too bad for Under $40!
So, a retroactive update to help complete my build thread.
I needed a ski rack, and as luck woudl have it, my parents got rid of our barecrafters gutter mount rack after we got rid of our 90, cause who would buy that old of a truck agian?
So, on my college budget the year i bought the truck, i started looking. Really don't use a roof rack for anything else, so i started look for just a gutter mount ski rack.
Found a barecrafters rack off of an accord, no keys, picked it up for $20. Ordered keys from whoever bought barecrafters, still had NOS keys, cost me less than $15
.Next, extended the center section as far as it woudl go, pounded the radius curve flat, and it BARELY spanned the gutters on teh burb. Went to put skis up the first time, and the bindings hit the roof
New center section had to be built. I realized this thursday night, going on a weekend trip with 8 in the burb with skis on friday. Early morning in the engineering machine shop, i fabbed a new center section. Peaked, so that i had the most binding clearance. With regular width skis, put in the rack as pairs (both skis clipped together), i can fit 8 pair as long as the bindings clear the roof.
Took it up to tahoe, worked great, but kinda flimsy, and since i had other gear strapped to it (did i mention 8 ppl and gear in the truck
), i wanted it stronger.The following season, i connected the front/rear sections with some thin square tube i had. Didn't have access to a mig, and suck at my arc, so i just cut the tube open, drilled holes in the flanges, and bolted it up. Strongest rack ever? no. Way strong enough to serve its job? YES!
Used some eyelets as bolts so i had somethign to put some straps or a net on. As soon as i find a good gear basket, i will install that in the middle space.
Besides that though, it works great!
I don't currently have pics of it mounted on the rig, but will when it put it back up. Sorry for lack of progress pics, all I have is the final product.
Here it is! Not too bad for Under $40!
Burbdood 74
Giver of not a single damn...
I needed a ski rack, and as luck woudl have it, my parents got rid of our barecrafters gutter mount rack after we got rid of our 90, cause who would buy that old of a truck agian?
I can relate fully bro. I had an 83 F-150 years ago. I got rid of it to get my K-5 and, being really happy with my Blazer, I got rid of all my acquired Ford parts. I had body panels, ignition boxes, you name it, I had it. Well my Blazer died 7 months later and I got an 86 F-250 and I had to start all over again with the parts. I got rid of all my Blazer parts, repair manuals, TBI stuff. Well here I am with an 88 Suburban after selling the Ford and I'm slowly getting rid of the Ford stuff, and re-acquiring Chevy stuff.It's a vicious circle.
Just don't sell anything.
Ever.
(I lie as I dumped a bunch of trim pieces when I moved down here earlier this month.)
(Yet I still have a few boxes of bolts, connectors, random BS, and other stuff off of Big Ugly and The Blazer.)
Ever.
(I lie as I dumped a bunch of trim pieces when I moved down here earlier this month.)
(Yet I still have a few boxes of bolts, connectors, random BS, and other stuff off of Big Ugly and The Blazer.)
Sweet rig -subscribed!
