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96 s10 blazer, getting a 5.3L

Finally sat the motor down on the motor mounts and new frame.
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well the level didn't move and thankfully the bubble didn't either! Also put the axle on some jack stands under the truck and got my upper links measured out. Got my ass handed to me by the new tranny cross member, got it in place though and will measure and check lower links tonight. Should be ordering links tomorrow from Hertric fab.
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Here are my new light weight links installed to check clearances on everything. Seems to be pretty good. The first 2 are full bump. The second 2 are ride height. My ride height will be with in 1/2" of my old ride height too. Thats a good thing because the wife is going to have to start using the step stool I bought her when I built it, when we go with bigger tires!:D

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Here are the numbers, looks like I will have to try the 2 out and see where I like it. Changes the anti squat number and roll steer a little. I do have another choice on the rear upper brackets too.

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I've read where the rollover steer needs to be down around -2 also. Just wandering how it is going to feel. For the slower speed stuff I think #2 is the way though, thats where I was leaning to start anyways. Was wiating for any input, so thanks again.
 
Pass side exhaust done. I went from 2" to 2 1/2" tubing, so even with the tight bend it should help. Also using the flowmaster collector. Everything I could find said it was the one to go with. Most people that dyno'ed it reported around 10hp gain over stock with no other mods. It is going to get wrapped before its all done too. The floorboard got warm before so now with the drivers side going to be coming over the tranny it will probably be even hotter. Should get started on the drivers side tonight.
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Thinking about running a 2" drive line spacer to help clear the tranny cross member. I will still have a good angle so thats not a problem. Anybody know of any problems with doing so? :confused:
 
I don't think they are the best solution, but I've seen people do it without a problem.
 
I got both sides of the exhaust done and wrapped up. The first pic is the drivers side that goes back over the tranny bell housing. Thats the main reason I wrapped them, I don't need to start melting stuff. The floorboard already was getting hot enough too. I had to cut out the back cross member I put in also because the drive line just barley hit it at full bump. So here is the new one sitting in place, going to wait to weld it till the end this time tough.
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Got the front stinger mocked up with the winch plate. It looks like the new one will be around 8-9" further back and 10-11" higher off the ground at ride height than the old snow plow. I also added some supports from the cross member to the base of the motor mounts just to be safe.
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ssyork said:
Thinking about running a 2" drive line spacer to help clear the tranny cross member. I will still have a good angle so thats not a problem. Anybody know of any problems with doing so? :confused:
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Cut a small pie shaped piece out of the cross member and plate it back in. basically create a small cavity for the drive shaft to go down into at full droop. It won't have a very big effect on the strength of the cross member and you should be good to go.

I had to do this on the buggy/race car.
 
miniwally said:
Cut a small pie shaped piece out of the cross member and plate it back in. basically create a small cavity for the drive shaft to go down into at full droop. It won't have a very big effect on the strength of the cross member and you should be good to go.

I had to do this on the buggy/race car.
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I will give that a look once my links get here. Hopefully that would be enough. Thanks for the tip. Any other advice before I weld everything up?
 
ssyork said:
I will give that a look once my links get here. Hopefully that would be enough. Thanks for the tip. Any other advice before I weld everything up?
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Cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,cycle the suspension, cycle the suspension,

Then about the time you think your done and ready for final welding, go back to the beginning of this post

Do all of you cycling with the real pieces in and tacked real well. Take it past full bump, and droop, then articulate it a little ways past you limit straps and shocks. Check every single position multiple times. Don't be afraid to take a big step backwards to make something better.

install the drive shaft and check it for binding at every limit, make sure that your shock tabs are spaced far enough apart to not hit the shock eyes. Articulation takes a lot of room up where you think that you have plenty.

I would plan for a bump stop now, by bump stop I mean air bump. Their big and take some planning. A king 2.5" bump is 2 3/4" OD, and like 9" long in the fully mounted position with the mounting can.

Then buy a bunch of shock tuning stuff and plan to get sick of playing with shocks.

Did I say cycle the suspension.

It's not hard to link something, it's real hard to link something right.
 
So you think I need to cycle the suspension 48 times? And then do it another 48?:D
Thanks for all the advice. This is my first link suspension and I have only done one leaf spring, so I'm really new to the game. I am using the ORI struts and not jumping it, so I don't have to worry about the bumps. I will still have the learning curve with tuning them. Thats probably the best advice on building I have heard "Don't be afraid to take a big step backwards to make something better." I do get excited to get it done and go play, so I have been reminding myself to just be patient and do it right. When I think I'm ready to final weld, I will go cycle the suspension again!
 
I think even for a crawler I'd work in or at least plan for the future for some quality bumps. I mean you are gonna have some $$ wrapped up in this and isn't a plus side to links/struts or links/coilovers is the multi-use of them.

I like to go fast sometimes too I guess, but my flexy leaves are not up to the big stuff at speed! If I was building a suspension I could crawl and go fast with... I would! :waytogo:
 
Have you guys looked into the ORI struts much? According to ORI they have "3-stage compression damping, including internal hydraulic bump stop" and "Hydraulic end-of stroke cushioning at full extension" After talking with the vendor(blacksheep on pirate) he feels even with my weight I will be able to run 55-65mph(top speed) through moderately rough stuff, with no jumping. Maybe more just depending on my link set up and rear suspension. We aren't talking KOH style whoops, just rough dirt roads. With my leaves, with no bumps stops, I was comfortable running around 50-55(top speed) on roads like the one coming out of behind the rocks/prichette, with some bottoming out on the shackles. But if guys are having problems with these, then now is the time to be fitting air bumps. So PLEASE let me know. Thanks for the input.
 
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