CK5
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And it continues build thread. Dead.. sent to the scrapyard

Not much but I cut out 2 1310 front driveshafts and ordered 2 1350 weld on yokes from spicer for my rear shaft with tube I will have 2 rear shafts for less than 100 bones. Not to shabby if u ask me. Also here is a better pic of the purple
 
Well got new Ujoints installed in the 60, got one side completely done, then the otherside I tried to put the hub on and noticed that I was missing the inner bearing. :doah::doah: . I can't find my lock down bolt for the calipers, and I put all the trans tunnel bolt somewhere:dunno::dunno: But interior is coming together with cupholders :)

I pick up DOM tube for the dshaft and tie rod tomorrow. I hope to get sheet steel for the bed as well. Getting closer, and closer :popcorn:

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keep crankin' it Jess. Good to see someone getting in some shop work!
 
Progress is progress. D60 is all put back together. HD tierod is built, man that sucker is heavy. 1.5" .250 wall :)

Also built my rear driveshaft. Really happy how it turned out. Not bad for under 100 bones

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It looks good Jess but what RPM do you plan on spinning that? You may have vibrations sooner than you think with a tube that length, weight and diameter.

How long is it from joint to joint?

What is your tube OD and wall thickness?

Check this out...

www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm

If I put in a 2" tube with a 5/16" wall 52" long, that gives me a critical speed of 4785 RPM, and thats if it's perfectly balanced. I am just throwing stuff out there, maybe yours is larger OD? The thicker tube actually worsens teh critical speed because of the heavier shaft. If you hit critical speed it may self destruct in short order.

Small diameter and heavier weight both decrease the critical speed and the max RPM you can go, and that doesn't include a safety factor or the weight of the end yokes.

Also, keep in mind the torque calc is after the tcase and tranny. If you have an auto tranny the T/C can have a 2x torque multiplier, x first gear and the 4:1 doubler and 400 ft-lbs starts to add up. 400 x 2 x 2.52 x 4 = 8000. Now, the 2x of the TC and the peak of the engine probably won't be at the same RPM, but still, a long, thick, small tube is not a good combo.
 
Is the driveshaft that thick? I thought just the tierod was .250?

My rear driveshaft is .220 and balanced good.
 
It looks good Jess but what RPM do you plan on spinning that? You may have vibrations sooner than you think with a tube that length, weight and diameter.

How long is it from joint to joint?

What is your tube OD and wall thickness?

Check this out...

www.wallaceracing.com/driveshaftspeed.htm

If I put in a 2" tube with a 5/16" wall 52" long, that gives me a critical speed of 4785 RPM, and thats if it's perfectly balanced. I am just throwing stuff out there, maybe yours is larger OD? The thicker tube actually worsens teh critical speed because of the heavier shaft. If you hit critical speed it may self destruct in short order.

Small diameter and heavier weight both decrease the critical speed and the max RPM you can go, and that doesn't include a safety factor or the weight of the end yokes.

Also, keep in mind the torque calc is after the tcase and tranny. If you have an auto tranny the T/C can have a 2x torque multiplier, x first gear and the 4:1 doubler and 400 ft-lbs starts to add up. 400 x 2 x 2.52 x 4 = 8000. Now, the 2x of the TC and the peak of the engine probably won't be at the same RPM, but still, a long, thick, small tube is not a good combo.


I went with only .120 wall DOM. 2" tube so I could reuse the stock spline/slip. If its really bad I'll get it balanced. But I will never get this thing on the road. Only a trailer queen so I'm not to worried about it that much. If I break it or its too bad, I'll have one built with thicker wall tube but for the money I have into it I can't beat it. 20 bucks for the 1350 yoke, stock shaft I had two of em, then 2" .120 x 4' for 25 bucks. So I have built this shaft for 45 bucks. You just can not beat that. I do not plan on running this shaft forever just to get me up and running.
 
I went with only .120 wall DOM. 2" tube so I could reuse the stock spline/slip. If its really bad I'll get it balanced. But I will never get this thing on the road. Only a trailer queen so I'm not to worried about it that much. If I break it or its too bad, I'll have one built with thicker wall tube but for the money I have into it I can't beat it. 20 bucks for the 1350 yoke, stock shaft I had two of em, then 2" .120 x 4' for 25 bucks. So I have built this shaft for 45 bucks. You just can not beat that. I do not plan on running this shaft forever just to get me up and running.

The .120 wall will actually be better for critical speed because it weighs about half of the example I did. I am sure it will work fine for low speed rock crawling and stuff. Also, you will probably never be at that high of RPM in high gear, so your RPMs will usually be less. However, I like to have it for worst case scenario just in case.
 
The .120 wall will actually be better for critical speed because it weighs about half of the example I did. I am sure it will work fine for low speed rock crawling and stuff. Also, you will probably never be at that high of RPM in high gear, so your RPMs will usually be less. However, I like to have it for worst case scenario just in case.

I understand Heath. I will not be doing sand drags like you. And my tbi only spins to about 4900 before the valves start floating. ;) I do not have a 6k screamer like you. And like I said this is just a temporary thing until I upgrade to 1410 all the way around.
 
I understand Heath. I will not be doing sand drags like you. And my tbi only spins to about 4900 before the valves start floating. ;) I do not have a 6k screamer like you. And like I said this is just a temporary thing until I upgrade to 1410 all the way around.

6k is a mild motor, 8 - 9k would be a screamer for a big V8. Its all relative, I can still operate vacuum brakes and run on pump gas, has to be a baby motor... :thumb:

It will probably work fine for what you want to do Jess
 
6k is a mild motor, 8 - 9k would be a screamer for a big V8. Its all relative, I can still operate vacuum brakes and run on pump gas, has to be a baby motor... :thumb:

It will probably work fine for what you want to do Jess

I will someday step up to a big block, but that's low on my priority list. My small block turns my tires over nicely. If I find a good deal on a 454 I'll probably slowly build it over time and put fast efi like you.
 
I understand Heath. I will not be doing sand drags like you. And my tbi only spins to about 4900 before the valves start floating. ;) I do not have a 6k screamer like you. And like I said this is just a temporary thing until I upgrade to 1410 all the way around.

Sweet Jess!

6k is a mild motor, 8 - 9k would be a screamer for a big V8. Its all relative, I can still operate vacuum brakes and run on pump gas, has to be a baby motor... :thumb:

It will probably work fine for what you want to do Jess

Yep economy motor, I can vouch for him :whistle:

I will someday step up to a big block, but that's low on my priority list. My small block turns my tires over nicely. If I find a good deal on a 454 I'll probably slowly build it over time and put fast efi like you.
:thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
Well progress is going to be haulted for a few weeks as my funds have been drained and I will be replacing the injectors in the duramax. Stay tuned for pics on that, oh well I did get a good deal on them only a few pennies short of 3k :doah::doah:
 
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