CK5
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Back to life...

Last I looked the Echlin catalog is broken down by section, once you find the temp switches you should be GTG.

IIRC you may get lucky on the fan switch, the Buick GN was running a lower temp thermostat than most engines did/do, fair number of part numbers and info here: http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/402305-any-cooling-fan-switches.html

Won't hurt anything, but realize the colder you try and keep the engine, the more work your cooling system (in this case mainly the fans) is going to have to do. The higher the differential between ambient and coolant temp, the more efficient heat loss will be. Almost certainly won't be an issue, but thermostat governs the minimum engine temperature, and has zero bearing on maximum engine temp when working properly, other than the time it takes to get from say, 180* to 195* (if you were to swap temps). If the engine will stay at the thermostat rated temp of 180*, it will do so at 195*.

195* is generally an emissions function, but there are other ramifications, I'd have to look at the .bin (data that is on the ECM's PROM) to see how engine temperature affects fueling. Some people have no problems keeping their trucks cool, others have issues. Fan efficiency along with a good radiator is what will determine whether the engine temp stays consistent or not.

BTW, here is one of the Echlin switches, man they are pricey! https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/ECHFS113/ Can probably find a non-Napa piece for considerably less.
 
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I think I might have found the right connectors for my fan on Partsgeek.com. I have them on order and will report back when I confirm whether or not they will work. I also ordered the Painless LSx fan harness since it has the 205/195 on/off settings. I'll have to see if I can figure out a way to plug in the temp sensor though.

On another, more annoying note, we finally cracked the cover on my 14 bolt that has been sitting for 10 years. Here is the mess we found. Is this even salvageable? How do I fix this mess?

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Soda blast it,wash it out real good, and run it...it might live..but plan on a complete rebuild sooner than later probably..

I've seen as bad or worse diffs from salvage yards get put back in use though !..and to my surprise,they held up..

We put a rear end in a 60's Lincoln at the junkyard,the only "good" one we had, sat a long time out of the car with the u-joint flange facing down on a rack,and upper half of the ring gear looked like yours,there was still milky gear oil covering the bearings though--we used a wire brush in an air drill to buff the rust off as best we could,washed it out with gas,and put it in the car with fresh lube,and it was driven to Florida and bad and it didn't make any scary noises--we figured it'd seize tight before it hit the state line!..
 
I sent the pics to my buddy that is a mechanic and he thinks he can salvage it. Might go ahead and have him redo the bearings, seals, etc. while he is in there since they are likely toast as well. Keeping my fingers crossed!
 
Maybe try some good rust converter/parts dip on the ring gear and stuff to see how it cleans up. I saw a good one a while ago but cannot remember the name. Awesome blazer! I love the black and the boggers.
 
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I have the original Chevrolet 1991 grill set up on my truck as well, and it is peeling the chrome on the exact same side...in the exact same place. LMC offers cheap replacement for the 1991 head light bezzle. Do not know what quality they are.

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That can be cleaned up. You just have to put some elbow grease into it, and take it completely apart, wire wheel it, or even have some of the parts bead blasted if you have too.
 
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I have the original Chevrolet 1991 grill set up on my truck as well, and it is peeling the chrome on the exact same side...in the exact same place. LMC offers cheap replacement for the 1991 head light bezzle. Do not know what quality they are.

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That can be cleaned up. You just have to put some elbow grease into it, and take it completely apart, wire wheel it, or even have some of the parts bead blasted if you have too.

I saw those parts on LMC and thought about them, but I was concerned a bit about quality as well. I've just received a bunch of LMC stuff and most of it seems decent, but there are a few quality issues I've noticed. Like the hood latch that took me 20 minutes to install because the damn nut that is on it is rounded instead of square like the factory one. Got the new screw stuck in there and it started to spin. And spun and spun and spun... regardless of the direction I tried to get it to go. Finally got it out and just got some bolts, washers, and lock nuts to attach it.

The plan for the axles is to have my buddy tear them down and then I will sand blast the parts. He will reinstall everything with new bearings and seals. So far I've heard suggestions for soda blasting and bead blasting. I've got easy access to sand blasting, and could pick up some sugar sand so it isn't as aggressive as what we typically use on a daily basis. Or is sugar sand still too aggressive?
 
Sand is very abrasive,and it'll be hell to remove all traces of it--,I would use soda,or maybe even set up an electrolosis tank..


You can find info on using an electrolosis tank on google..its fairly simple and works great--treasure from shipwrecks get this treatment and it comes out looking new..

If you have a plastic tank and a battery charger,and some scrap iron,you can de-rust that thing in a day or two like new (save the pitting that may be left,but this method removes all the rust even from pits without removing metal to do so)...you put a solution of washing soda and water on the bucket or tank and put the battery charger leads to the scrap iron anodes and the other to the part to be de-rusted..(I think the + lead goes to the anodes and - to the part,but look it up to be sure)..

The bearings will probably be what wont last,once rollers get pitted they will at least be rumbly and noisy and probably fail sooner than later--gears seem to be pretty forgiving..
 
Sand is very abrasive,and it'll be hell to remove all traces of it--,I would use soda,or maybe even set up an electrolosis tank..


You can find info on using an electrolosis tank on google..its fairly simple and works great--treasure from shipwrecks get this treatment and it comes out looking new..

If you have a plastic tank and a battery charger,and some scrap iron,you can de-rust that thing in a day or two like new (save the pitting that may be left,but this method removes all the rust even from pits without removing metal to do so)...you put a solution of washing soda and water on the bucket or tank and put the battery charger leads to the scrap iron anodes and the other to the part to be de-rusted..(I think the + lead goes to the anodes and - to the part,but look it up to be sure)..

The bearings will probably be what wont last,once rollers get pitted they will at least be rumbly and noisy and probably fail sooner than later--gears seem to be pretty forgiving..

Cool info. I'll look into that and see what I can come up with. I have new bearings and seals arriving today, and dropping the axles off to my friend this afternoon so he can tear them down. Hopefully I can get these cleaned up and usable again. Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
 
The fan connectors I ordered from Parts Geek came in yesterday and they fit! Pretty nice parts, and they seem to be heavy duty. I just have to figure out which tab is power and which is ground. Anyone have some suggestions on how to determine that? I suppose I could jump the fan from a battery and see which way it spins, but is there a way to determine which pole is which with a multimeter?

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Went to my father-in-law's shop the other day and he bent up and welded some rock sliders for me. Material is .120 wall 1.75" DOM tubing. The main bar (straight one) is 60" long, and the hoop started out as an 80" piece. The bends are about 45* bends. Width from outside of each tube is 8". We were able to use the ends of the hoop that we cut off as the center braces. Those proportions seemed to look about right as a compromise between aesthetics and making it wide enough to be functional step.

It's nice when you have all the right tools to use for something like this, but after making these I can tell you the kits from guys like DIY4X are well worth buying. I enjoyed spending the afternoon with my father-in-law, but by the time you buy the material and spend the time measuring, bending, cutting, welding, etc. it's well worth the $300 for someone else to do it from a purely financial standpoint. I haven't had time to mock these up on the truck yet, but plan to do so today or tomorrow. I can't decide if I'm going to paint them black, blue (same as the truck), or silver. I thought about doing silver for these and the front and rear bumpers, as I think it would be a nice contrast. Guess I'll mock them up and figure it out from there.

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Easy way to wire fans is to just try. They won't get hurt if you wire them backwards, they're just spin the wrong way. Jumper each to a battery, then see if it is spinning the right way. If not, reverse.
 
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