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Battery relocation (Update: Now the questions start...)

one thing i would do is go right to the starter from the battery.. then run another length to wherever you want to put that positive post... that'll take care of your starter lead, and not be going threw the weak stock pos lead to the starter..

also, i would run the grd directly to that alternator bolt the factory one went to.. then you can always add an auxilary grd post...
 
Waytek seems to be pretty cheap compared to everywhere else I have looked around. They have 2/0 cable for about half the price I can get it for locally.

Is there any way to put connections on a cable that size in my garage without buying a crimper? Doubt it but I may as well ask.
 
ryoken said:
one thing i would do is go right to the starter from the battery.. then run another length to wherever you want to put that positive post... that'll take care of your starter lead, and not be going threw the weak stock pos leads to the starter..

also, i would run the grd directly to that alternator bolt the factory one went to.. then you can always add an auxilary grd post...
Click to expand...

That does make sense.
I am going to have to go look at the wiring to re-familiarize myself with it. I need to get e schematic drawn up so it all makes sense to me before I go buying all this stuff.
 
readymix said:
Waytek seems to be pretty cheap compared to everywhere else I have looked around. They have 2/0 cable for about half the price I can get it for locally.

Is there any way to put connections on a cable that size in my garage without buying a crimper? Doubt it but I may as well ask.
Click to expand...

waytek is good to deal with. tho iirc, they do have minimums..

you can solder your battery lugs with just a propane torch... good for a pretty substantial ampload...

I run soldered, and I have access to the killer crimpers...
 
I have no problem paying to have them crimped but I have never been a fan of crimping anything in my line of work.

Granted there is a huge difference between a 12Vdc connection and the Khz-Ghz stuff I do. All the mechanical connections introduce impedance losses and electrical noise.
 
Here is what I found finally on west marine ( I am still at work again earning those big bucks:doah:) They are expensive but maybe you can tweak the wording in your e-searches

Dik
 
yup, the blue sea stuff is top of the line.. It's mostly what I run...

I may be able to get you something of a deal on those if you want me to check into it...
 
I found the Bluesea ones available at my local Academy sports for $9.99, but they were the 5/16 stud ones. I would rather have the 3/8, if for only one reason. In case I ever lost the nut, I always have some of them in the toolbox.

Here is a new question for you Ryoken. What do you think about that liquid electrical tape stuff I see at Lowes and HD all the time.
I will still heathrink all of it, but the added protection would be nice.

On all of the equipment I work on we use Poly-Sulfide along with Cold-Shrink on almost all topside connections. It is pretty close to permanent. I am sure you guys use the same stuff.
 
readymix said:
Is there any way to put connections on a cable that size in my garage without buying a crimper? Doubt it but I may as well ask.
Click to expand...

Propane torch and thick solder. Throw the heat onto the lugs you are going to use (not the wire), and allow the solder to wick into the wire. Get some waterproof heat shrink to cover the open areas, and you'll be good to go.
 
That I can do.


What about the liquid electrical tape stuff I mentioned in my post above?
Is it anything like Poly-Sulfide or does it suck?
 
I liked the waterproof heat shrink because it was just something else to hold the lug onto the cable. It's not like they get pulled on, and the lugs aren't going to fall off, but I do manage to climb into the engine bay every once in a while, so that little extra makes me feel better. Liquid electrical tape would work just as well covering exposed copper.
 
readymix said:
I found the Bluesea ones available at my local Academy sports for $9.99, but they were the 5/16 stud ones. I would rather have the 3/8, if for only one reason. In case I ever lost the nut, I always have some of them in the toolbox.

Here is a new question for you Ryoken. What do you think about that liquid electrical tape stuff I see at Lowes and HD all the time.
I will still heathrink all of it, but the added protection would be nice.

On all of the equipment I work on we use Poly-Sulfide along with Cold-Shrink on almost all topside connections. It is pretty close to permanent. I am sure you guys use the same stuff.
Click to expand...

sorry I didn't get back to this Brian... :o

yeah, I like 3/8's too...

as for the liquid stuff... I'm not sure what the poly-sulfide is like.. but for a long time in the marine biz, before they came out with the glue-lined heatshrink, we used to douche the connection with 3M's liquid stuff, pull the shrink over, shrink, then wipe the excess off... worked awesome, but with good, glue ones out, we rarely do that anymore.... too much time... the glue seals them off pretty well...

everything gets shrink tube...
 
I don;t think I have ever seen the glue lined heat shrink. I will have to stop by West Marnie to look at it.

As far as poly-s. It is like a 2 part epoxy that we use to cover all exposed bolts, waveguide flanges, metal to metal mounting surfaces, ect....
You name it, we poly-s it.
 
I guess I will be adding the remote solenoid.
I was out looking at the truck trying to get the current battery ---> starter cable out and noticed that the smaller wires going to the starter and about ready to snap. Too much exhaust heat over time has done them in.

Search here I come....
 
readymix said:
I guess I will be adding the remote solenoid.
I was out looking at the truck trying to get the current battery ---> starter cable out and noticed that the smaller wires going to the starter and about ready to snap. Too much exhaust heat over time has done them in.

Search here I come....
Click to expand...

Once again I hit ebay:D

200 amp continous duty solenoid $35 bucks, Marine stores have them also.

Dik
 
readymix said:
You're an e-bay whore:haha::haha:

I'll probably just go to Napa or Oreilly's and look at what they have there.
Click to expand...

Shopping from the comfort of home:D. I wonder how many stolen parts are on my rig:thinking:. I posted the model # in the second link. I think that is the same one Ryoken is running also.

Dik
 
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