TheBeast_88K5
Banned
You crazy kid's, and yer moving axle's... 
CK5
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BENDER stays in hibernation with me
- Thread starter K85 Octane
- Start date
Getting there. Got the weld in piece put on with the help of mtnman210. Got the box on partly, still waiting for it to cool down some so I can put my longer bolts in. Pitman arm is temporarily on, needs a better nut and lock washer. Just looking at everything put together. Need to tighten some of the tierod end nuts. Everything is closed this weekend, so I'm waiting till Tuesday to get the discs turned and bearing races pressed in. Then they can go on, calipers afterwords, then locking hubs, and finally tires.
Then it will at least look like an "operable" vehicle. Stupid city.
After it's on the ground again, I'll start with mounting the shocks. The ORD longer brakelines will go on later when I do the rear disc, master cylinder, and prop valve. For now, there will be no wheeling.
Then it will at least look like an "operable" vehicle. Stupid city.
After it's on the ground again, I'll start with mounting the shocks. The ORD longer brakelines will go on later when I do the rear disc, master cylinder, and prop valve. For now, there will be no wheeling.
front pinion caster is supposed to be 2-6* right? I need to remove the shims and cut the zero rates down so my draglink has a better chance to clear the leaf springs.
Also, cause 4wheelparts has gotten a lot of business from me (or I should say my dad, cause it's his truck) they gave me a deal on a 60" high lift jack.
Paid 85 bucks for the all cast jack and handle isolator
Still working on shocks. Just need the welder to finish my brackets and I'm golden
*damn I wish I had a welder
*EDIT: I should say, "my dads truck is an '06 Dmax, not MY blazer 4WheelParts wont be touching it
Also, cause 4wheelparts has gotten a lot of business from me (or I should say my dad, cause it's his truck) they gave me a deal on a 60" high lift jack.
Paid 85 bucks for the all cast jack and handle isolator
Still working on shocks. Just need the welder to finish my brackets and I'm golden
*damn I wish I had a welder
*EDIT: I should say, "my dads truck is an '06 Dmax, not MY blazer
4WheelParts wont be touching it
Last edited:
andyblack
Registered Loser
You should get your dad to buy you one.
Are you talking pinion angle or caster? I would set the caster and let the pinion angle fall where it lies. If you need to change the pinion angle you have to cut and rotate the Cs.
Caster angle should be 4 - 8 degrees, and more is better for handling, but more is worse for pinion angle. I would shoot for at least 5 minimum caster angle.
I always thought adjusting the pinion angle with an angle finder was the easiest way to adjust caster. Get the pinion between X and Y, and your caster should be good.
Yes, I'm looking for a good caster angle for highway use AND abusive offroading.
How do I use an angle finder on the knuckles?
Yes, I'm looking for a good caster angle for highway use AND abusive offroading. How do I use an angle finder on the knuckles?
Put the angle finder on the steering arm and shoot for 5 minimum, factory was 8 degrees in the later years, just make sure to try and place it so it doesn't see the angle inward, only the angle front/back. You are trying to measure how many degrees back the upper ball joint is behind the lower ball joint (the imaginary line between the two). The steering arm is perpendicular to that.
So damn lazy lately, busy with work, and having to pull the motor again isn't the funnest thing to do. My caster angle is way up there, around 8.5-9*, so I'll need to address that and my crossover clearance issues. Ugg
Got some stuff done. Bought some new SRW hubs/rotors for the D60, which will sit until I can sell of some of my extra D44 stuff. The D44 is solid with all wear parts having been changed. I'll keep it for a while if I need to.
Got my steering box bolt on brace in, which complements the weld in nicely.
The Ford shock towers went in smoothly. Cut out a template to fit the frame, welded the towers to the new steel, and reused the bolt holes in the frame to mount the towers. Came out good but haven't had a chance to "flex check". I took a grinder to the original shock mount, the frame side where the "bubble" is. I ground it down just about flat and made sure the new mounts went around the slight bump. This helped move the shock top forward. Even with the axle moved 1.5" forward, the new shocks are close to or more vertical than original location.
Got some stuff done. Bought some new SRW hubs/rotors for the D60, which will sit until I can sell of some of my extra D44 stuff. The D44 is solid with all wear parts having been changed. I'll keep it for a while if I need to.
Got my steering box bolt on brace in, which complements the weld in nicely.
The Ford shock towers went in smoothly. Cut out a template to fit the frame, welded the towers to the new steel, and reused the bolt holes in the frame to mount the towers. Came out good but haven't had a chance to "flex check". I took a grinder to the original shock mount, the frame side where the "bubble" is. I ground it down just about flat and made sure the new mounts went around the slight bump. This helped move the shock top forward. Even with the axle moved 1.5" forward, the new shocks are close to or more vertical than original location.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Shock mounts look clean. But what's that orange wire? An electrical cord that's not permanently attached I assume.
haha
drop light
drop light
It seems 1/2 my pictures are of the truck's progress going backwards 
Here is the engine as of this morning
And a quick picture of the remote mount oil filter I put together so I could remove the filter with the new Y pipe in the way. 
Here is the engine as of this morning
And a quick picture of the remote mount oil filter I put together so I could remove the filter with the new Y pipe in the way.
Did you say something about taking the engine back out???
yep, it leaks oil from a couple different places so it's getting the "find the leaks" treatment. Oil pressure is around 12.5 psi with 20w50 hot. I don't like it. While it's out, there might be a slight change in things as well 
Holy crap man. Mines at about 30-40 warm at idle and 60 driving.
andyblack
Registered Loser
Are you getting that 12 psi number from the stock oil pressure gauge? I'm not sure I trust that thing. Mine jumps all around from 12 to 20 psi and I know I've got more oil pressure than that.
Thats a good point. My stock one is all over the place, but i only pay attention to the mechanical one
autometer sender and gauge, also tested with a mechanical gauge
going to attempt pulling the engine wednesday and getting it over to a shop. I'm seriously looking to get more power from the 406 AND get a FAST EFI feeding it SOON!
going to attempt pulling the engine wednesday and getting it over to a shop. I'm seriously looking to get more power from the 406 AND get a FAST EFI feeding it SOON!
Id just go with some nice heads. Thats what i would like to do. Little harder cuz of the steam holes but im sure that would make a massive differance. I am interested in seeing someone try that Powerjection system on summit thats like $1600 and has everything built into the unit so no wiring harnesses and no mess. Plus its cheaper and hs the addaptive learning thing like the ez-efi.
I'm not, that PP powerjection system uses injectors above the throttle blades, is probably made in China, which is why they have to test it here 100% before they ship it out because of the quality. They advertise that above the blades is better but it's not, gimmick.
And they have a clamp on 02 bung? Seriously? Thats hack. If the entire engine is being tuned by the 02 sensor and that clamp on bung leaks then your engine will run like crap. The FAST system intructions specifically say NOT to substitute the weld on bung for anythnig else for exactly that reason.
It still has a wiring harness, still needs to hook up everything with power and ground, fuel pump, 02 sensor, coolant temp, etc, but PP puts their ECM in the throttle body. Not necessarily sure that's the best spot for it...
Also, considering the cost of the whole systems, it doesn't appear to be that much cheaper. I would rather have the quality and reliability of the FAST unit along with their EFI reputation.
I only said i was interested in seeing it, not saying he should necessarily get it. I hadnt heard much about it other than whats in the summit catalog, nor did i know all that.
