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Black Betty TBI swap

well I went out later in the day saturday to start and move the truck and she has no spark. Fuel but no spark. Tried both my chips too. MSD coil has .9ohms primary and 2.4k secondary. wtf?
 
I think maybe the ECM died? I don't have any troubleshooting tips to verify the ECM died, other than try another ECM. It might be possible the distributor ignition module died, but the only troubleshooting tip I have for a bad ignition module is to try another module. If you replace the ignition module, be sure to use heat sink grease, not dielectric grease. The heat sink grease is dielectric grease with aluminum in it, which is why heat sink grease is white not clear. If you remove the ignition module and see clear grease on the bottom, my best guess is the module is bad.

dave w
 
where the heck do you get heat sink grease? I'm about positive it's dielectric under there cause i put it there.

I am going to check the pick-up coil and swap ignition modules tonight.

I dont have a computer to swap but if the ignition module isn't it I bet the computer is ****ed. I sure hope not, cause I just got that ZIF socket in there. I double checked my solder joints and ohmed out the chip sockets to the solder on the back of the computer board and everything seems good there.

I dont know how I messed up the computer though. Could I have damaged it by swapping chips with the computer hooked up and ignition on?
 
I get heat sink grease from a place like Radio Shack. Heat sink grease is common on audio amplifier installs of more than 50 watts. The heat sink grease I get is from a local industrial electronics supplier, Norvac http://www.norvac.net/ I'm sure there is a source for heat sink grease near you?

One of my more classic troubleshooting techniques is " go back to what was just changed ". It's possible adding the zif socket could be the cause, but maybe not? Are you using the 27SF512 chip in the zif? If you are using the 27SF512, did you program the 27SF512 chip with the correct offsets for a 4K chip? Is the chip installed correctly?

dave w
 
yes on the 27SF512. And the chip was installed correctly (notch towards the handle).

I'm not sure if I had the offsets correct. I basically used the addressing exactly like this window shot from binder planet. Was this wrong?

EEPROM_033.jpg
 
That looks just like the information I posted back on page 11 of this thread. Did you verify chip with buffer after flashing? I'm thinking the no spark is not a chip problem, but something to check because the engine now has, no start / no spark. I think if the chip was the problem, the ECM would set a code, (not sure of the code number). I think the engine will actually start without a chip.

dave w
 
-850k resistance on the primary coil so thats good.

-Swapped ignition module and no change.

-checked all the key on voltages at the computer and nothing strange there. Grounds are good too.

-no codes other than a random 34 at one point (low voltage at map sensor)

-I am beginning to think the ECU is bad and not sure what else to try. Really wish I had a spare.
 
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mrdrinksalil said:
well I went out later in the day saturday to start and move the truck and she has no spark. Fuel but no spark. Tried both my chips too. MSD coil has .9ohms primary and 2.4k secondary. wtf?
Click to expand...

Wasn't the ECM. The New MSD coil went bad after like 3hrs of run time. wtf MSD. 2.4kohms isn't enough secondary resistance in an MSD TBI coil if anyone wants to know.
 
Looks like the coil has a 1year warranty so thats good news. Should have time to play with the truck Friday and Saturday. Would be nice to wheel on Monday.
 
Ok, so this is an old log but now that I can burn chips I will raise the Base Paulse Width (BDW) Contant up to so I am a little more rich. I am so tierd of messing with the fuel pressure regulator. It's set at 135 right now. I'm thinking 138-139ish. Sound good? I drove the truck just a little bit around the yard tonight and noticed a bog or dead spot off idle under load. That symptom really needs to get ironed out because that's where the motor runs 80% of the time on the trail.



I havn't even got to modify a chip yet and my CATS Tuner 30 day licence is expired. Tried to uninstal and reinstall but they got something hidden on my hard drive must be cause that dont work. I just downloaded it to my desktop. Prolly gonna have to pony up and buy it in 30days I guess.

DataLog7_20.JPG
 
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ok well I bumped the BPW to 139. Would run great in the driveway but under the slightest load she wanted to cut out. Still could drive it around a bit but noticed under 1600rpm and 70MAP she was lean. Made some chip adjustments and about to head outside and run it.
 
Well, the truck is running MUCH better. I was under the impression that the chip burning process would not be so critical but it is. You really need to log data and go through a few chips to get things right. I'd like to thank everyone on here that has helped me out with this. I'm going to add some info from Dave W that I think is the most logical approach to the chip burning process. I've added a few things as well....

WinALDL program logs data off your chip, ALDLTOBIN program uses your WinALDL data and chip file to give you a new chip file with modified fuel table. TunerCAT's program is where you can look at the fuel table and make all other manual changes to the chip (aka your .bin file). I modifed my 7747 ECM to accept the 28pin eeprom chips and used the Burn2 chip burner from Moates to put the new .bin files on my chip.

After you get everything installed in the truck do the voltage checks and initial setup procedure from Binder Planet Forums.

1. Get your fuel pressure at roughly 13psi. For a built motor over 300HP you may want to just start out with it set as high as you can get it.
2. Set Timing Table - Then leave it alone!
3. Set Base Pulse Width so most data logged cells are 128 +/- 2. Usually High RPM's will be lean, and Low RPM's will be rich.
4. Correct Individual cells that are not 128 +/- 2.
5. Adjust drive-ability, like choke settings and Accel. Enrichment (pump shot).

-WinALDL is your friend. The more time you run the program, the better your tune is going to get.

-Read EVERYTHING in the FAQ's on Binder Planet 100 times.

-Cheap fuel pressure gauges from Summit Racing are not accurate but will show you if your pressure drops under load/rpm.

-The Help Section in TunerCAT's tells a lot about things you can modify on your chip but only try one thing at a time to evaluate your changes. Just because you can change it doesn't mean you should or need to.


I hope this thread will help someone on CK5 with their own swap. If it does, let me know.
 
I'm glad you posted that. Too many people never report back or just say "it works now", but don't tell you what they did to fix it. :waytogo:
 
I really hate that myself. No one learns that way. I am not affraid to admit that a cracked spark plug kicked my ass with this TBI swap. That, using a not up to spec. fuel pump and a cheap fuel pressure gauge all but wore me out. Good thing the MSD coil that failed didn't take too long to find.
 
Yes it is nice to get feedback when you find the issue. I had spent countless hours on a friends truck once to find out it was the wrong spark plugs in the motor... even worse when I went to the parts store they looked up Accell plugs for this engine and came out with the same ones! Asked if he would bring out a set of stock plugs and guess what? They were almost half inch longer!!! :doah:
 
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