CK5
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Blazer's 68 Nova "Stephanie"
- Thread starter kgblazerfive
- Start date
Planning on a cage.
I will weld the parts of the seams on the frame that are not welded.
I will weld the parts of the seams on the frame that are not welded.
Subframe is welded
I'm working on this thing in my garage doing what I've wanted to do with this car since I got it almost 30 years ago. So grateful for the ability and the space to do it. As well as the finances too.
Only somewhat sorry what happened in order for me to be able to do this.
Should have started on it 13 years ago when I moved here.
I'm working on this thing in my garage doing what I've wanted to do with this car since I got it almost 30 years ago. So grateful for the ability and the space to do it. As well as the finances too.
Only somewhat sorry what happened in order for me to be able to do this.
Should have started on it 13 years ago when I moved here.
DONT DO THAT UNLESS YOU HAVE A JIG YOU WILL NEVER GET THE FRONT END ALIGNED DUE TO WARPING. Been there done that lol
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Now that I seen you have already done that. You need to check the subframe for square. Measuring from the alignment pin to the opposite end of front of the frame and vice versa. If those measurements don’t match you’re going to have a hell of a time getting the car to drive straight. Hopefully you did 2” weld passes at a time and let it cool in between and bounced around. That would help with warping. But if you ran a 12” long bead on that you might have some issues.
Did not have that much to weld. Maybe about 6 inches where it bends down at the fire wall, and the end at the body mount.
Not worried about it warping, if it did I'm up for buying a new tube one...... just sayin.
Not worried about it warping, if it did I'm up for buying a new tube one...... just sayin.
I thought you were doing what I did and grounded out all the factory seams and welded all the way around the sub frame. I did this to get the frame glassy smooth when you pop the hood and look down...... carry on
you’re probably fine.
Nope I am not a looks person. My welds suck to bad for that.
So sub frame connectors where to put them and how to make them
under floor ?
through floor ? combo of both ?
relocate rear springs make new rear frame ???
rather open to lots of options my truck floor is rusted and has holes, my floor inside is just as shot so not worth saving but don't want to buy a new one just to cut it up.
Just kind of looking for ideas and thoughts.
Getting mini tubbed and can relocate rear springs. My rear axle is already narrowed, but its factory, 1.5 inches narrower then stock. Came out of a 68-72 Bronco, yes it is a 9in. I have a fuel cell that needs to be mounted in the trunk area, as well a a battery, fuel pump and filter. Don't care if I have a trunk floor got nothing to put in it anyway.
Some thoughts ?
under floor ?
through floor ? combo of both ?
relocate rear springs make new rear frame ???
rather open to lots of options my truck floor is rusted and has holes, my floor inside is just as shot so not worth saving but don't want to buy a new one just to cut it up.
Just kind of looking for ideas and thoughts.
Getting mini tubbed and can relocate rear springs. My rear axle is already narrowed, but its factory, 1.5 inches narrower then stock. Came out of a 68-72 Bronco, yes it is a 9in. I have a fuel cell that needs to be mounted in the trunk area, as well a a battery, fuel pump and filter. Don't care if I have a trunk floor got nothing to put in it anyway.
Some thoughts ?
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When I was building the Camaro, I started out thinking about mini-tubbing. I installed the frame connectors thru the floor and attached them to the rear unibody rails. That made the connectors install at an angle.
Rear of the front subframe was narrower than the rear rails. It would have been easier to have done a complete back half and installed rear straight frame rails. I ultimately removed the mini-tubs and modified
the rear unibody rails to install larger slicks. The car was deadly consistent after those modifications.
Rear of the front subframe was narrower than the rear rails. It would have been easier to have done a complete back half and installed rear straight frame rails. I ultimately removed the mini-tubs and modified
the rear unibody rails to install larger slicks. The car was deadly consistent after those modifications.
This is a might as well thing
All our first gen camaros had the connectors that didn't pass through the floor. One thing to consider besides costs is how well the tire aligns with the wheel well.
On the Stock eliminator car, we couldn't cut the fender or wheel well. We used a monoleaf set up and CalTracs bars with the max spec width tire for the class, 10.5. Even the A/s cars were using that tire, and running in the 9s
All our first gen camaros had the connectors that didn't pass through the floor. One thing to consider besides costs is how well the tire aligns with the wheel well.
On the Stock eliminator car, we couldn't cut the fender or wheel well. We used a monoleaf set up and CalTracs bars with the max spec width tire for the class, 10.5. Even the A/s cars were using that tire, and running in the 9s
Stephanie's wheel openings are a rusty mess, so fixing them is on the list.
Ok so is it less work in the end to just gut the trunk wheels wells and totally redo it ?
I don't really want to put the effort into mini tubing it, if it is going to be a royal pain, and not worth it in the long run. As in work vs. performance.
I know the nines are very easy with a mini tub. I also know that its going to be a ton of work to cut the stock tub out, save the frame rail and still have to move the shocks. As well as replace the trunk floor that is shot and mount the fuel cell.
Just thinking it would be easier in the end to cut the whole thing out, build frame rails, or buy, do frame connectors straight back, shock mounts and run the mono leafs that I have now. Maybe I am just typing it out to see if that makes more sense.
Ok so is it less work in the end to just gut the trunk wheels wells and totally redo it ?
I don't really want to put the effort into mini tubing it, if it is going to be a royal pain, and not worth it in the long run. As in work vs. performance.
I know the nines are very easy with a mini tub. I also know that its going to be a ton of work to cut the stock tub out, save the frame rail and still have to move the shocks. As well as replace the trunk floor that is shot and mount the fuel cell.
Just thinking it would be easier in the end to cut the whole thing out, build frame rails, or buy, do frame connectors straight back, shock mounts and run the mono leafs that I have now. Maybe I am just typing it out to see if that makes more sense.
Trying to work back to questionable metal sucks. If you’re never going to restore it, be realistic about what you really want to use it for. If the track is the #1 priority, all new parts are much easier to work with
Just beware. You’re looking into the abyss...
Just beware. You’re looking into the abyss...
Ladder bars or 4-link and coil overs. Ladder bars= 1 or 2 combinations work. 4 link= 4 or 5 combinations work and 15 or 20 don't.
Fork it..... Full tube chassis and use the body for its skin
I know someone who is building those .......
Some pictures of the latest stuff
Trans is done which means shift kit installed.
Frame mounts.... ugg
Frame mounts.... ugg
