So the crew cab is going on the suburban frame (just trying to keep up over here)
CK5
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Blazer's 85 Suburban "Twinkie"
- Thread starter kgblazerfive
- Start date
Yes, keeping Twinkie's frame and cutting the cage off then putting the Crew Cab body on. At least that is the idea right now.
Rear tires are going to be close to the cab. I know a few people have moved rear axles on crew cabs to just behind the cab, but I don't remember seeing what that wheelbase ends up at. Although I can think of some cool stuff you could do to solve that issue that would involve link bars and the like.
Well the cab will not fit with my C pillar where it is at so that has to come off too. It is like right at the C pillar so it should fit about the same that is does now.
I do have the ability to link the rear axle, right now. Well I need springs .....
I do have the ability to link the rear axle, right now. Well I need springs .....
Are you going to do coils with shocks? That's what I've thought about doing, especially in the rear.
That might be the plan.
Got some things done
Limiting straps and cross member redone
Limiting straps and cross member redone
Going to have about 11 inches of down travel.
So new driveshaft is here
Found out some interesting information. I will not be able to convert Twinkie back to a normal street vehicle. I guess once a street legal full size ATV you can never go back. So the plan is to get a title for the Crew Cab. Then go from there.
So I have been doing some research on the Crew Cab
It is a 1983 C/K Pickup, built in St Louis, 1-ton class 2H 9001-10,000, 7.4 Liter 454 Ci, 4WD
information from the NTHS data base.
So I have been doing some research on the Crew Cab
It is a 1983 C/K Pickup, built in St Louis, 1-ton class 2H 9001-10,000, 7.4 Liter 454 Ci, 4WD
information from the NTHS data base.
Did they do anything different with this shaft?
No but having it not hit my transfer case mount and having it not hit the front yoke which hopefully the limiting straps will help should make it last a little bit longer although it's been like 6 years how long it's lasted
What's the front end links get done and all that is taken care of I will end up going to a whole 1350 setup but I really didn't want to feel like spending the $800 on the whole new drive shaft
Is possible that the shaht hit the member after it came loose?
No cuz it's been pretty good
And when it broke it was more like Snap and that was it, there wasn't a lot of flopping around or anything like that.
Some of you may have seen my lovely realty large hose clamp holding my exhaust from rattling around. That was a wow my exhaust is loose and rattling around, the day before we were going to Moab, so fast fix was in order.
Well it is now fixed for real and seems to work. Put in a real hanger with a clamp.
Also a picture of the through bolts on the rear driveshaft.
Well it is now fixed for real and seems to work. Put in a real hanger with a clamp.
Also a picture of the through bolts on the rear driveshaft.
Going to get the crossmember in and then get out the pressure washer and do some cleaning before I put on the skid plate
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Why is there silicone on the end of the bolts?
