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Blazer's 85 Suburban "Twinkie"

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Didn't have all day had to work, damm employees, but got some done
rear mounts done and springs in
shackel looks like it will work, might go longer have to see once the rear is in it

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Got the rear axle in pinion might be a little high up but should work
Have to go buy lug studs and rotors and put the Detroit in and it should be done

in the pictures the drive shaft is just sitting there and its not the one that I'm using

Its sitting on its own weight and looks to be just right as far as rear and front height which is good because I didn't want to have to take anything apart to redo it.

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Did you notice a differeance is spring eye bolt hole size. on mine the bolt was a little loose in one end on both springs the side that had the red tape on it. I was thinking it was metric and might take a different bushing at a later date. nice build.
 
mnstrburbon said:
Did you notice a differeance is spring eye bolt hole size. on mine the bolt was a little loose in one end on both springs the side that had the red tape on it. I was thinking it was metric and might take a different bushing at a later date. nice build.
Click to expand...

The big one is 5/8 the little one is 9/16, my snafu was I ordered bushing for it and they came but the didn't fit it so I had to spend $80 for new rubber ones that I just cut out, the OD size for the bushings is 1 11/16 and 2 inches. Live and learn.
 
The rear axle is almost done go the Detroit in it, the axles in it, the lug studs in had to reuse four of my old ones. I have to easy out one of the bleeder screws then it will be done. The calipers were GM so I decided to keep them vs. getting some Chinese made ones.

The gas tank is in with the skid plate. Fixed the fuel lines at the fuel pump. Some of you may not know but last year at the Bash my fuel pump had been smashing into the cross member. That had caused me to have a nice little fuel leak. Which is one of the many reasons I put in the ORD cross member. So I had to do a little bending to the pump line ends and put new rubber lines in. Although I did figure out what was helping the pump bang in the frame I only had one engine bolt in and no transfer case mounts at all :rolleyes:

I also got the T-case out wish my 203/205 combo was that light

I have rear air and I also had to move the lines going to the back. Got them moved they were a little to close to the rocker for my taste. May end up getting rid of it and putting in rear sliding windows but we will see.

Today I get to pull out the front seats and console and carpet. Then get the shifters on the T-case and mock it up :D yeah should be fun. Then cut the floor board for the shifters and put it all back together.

I have decided to go with a floor shifter was going to keep it on the column. So I have to figure out how to mount my shifter, and my console and my shifters all in the same space.
 
your paint job should look like this.......I call it "camodent"

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Well got the doubler set out off of the 700r4 and took it back to the house. Changed the front gear to a 32 spline and put it back together went to put it in and no fit:mad:

Turns out that the 208 TH400 have a longer output shaft then the 203 TH400 so checking on my options.
 
Well options are really limited for those doing this swap its swap guts in trans or use the 208 adapter and re-drill the 203. I went with the latter really no big deal re-drilled it and tapped it. Got it a little off but it works. However nothing like rebuilding your 203 twice in two days. I had to gut it to put in the new front gear for the 32 spline TH400 then take it all apart again to drill the case.

I need to make a new trans mount but might not get to it by the Bash. In order for my fan to not hit the shroud I have to space the mount down with the factory spacers so it works but not what I want. I did end up cutting the tunnel so I have to rebuild that but was planning on that with the shifters anyway.

I went to put in new bleeder screws in the calipers and no go, so I'm getting new calipers. Will get the new brake lines too going longer on the front and using the front on the back.
 
T-case and doubler set up in the truck

the redrill is four washers off at the mount, going to fix that with my new mount.

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The calipers are on got a set of bling bling gold ones found them at Checker :D.

Got the T-case crossmember in had to use the spacers, going to have to make a new one but not b4 the Bash.

Got the brake lines figured out need longer ones for the front so the ones that I have are going on the back, so my hard lines are going to be real short in the back.

Figuring out the front shocks and rear shocks next

Got the driveshafts measured thought my new old one was going to work but when I lifted the front end it pulled apart.

With no wheels on it I lifted up the front end and the axle dropped seven inches and it wasn't at full droop:eek1:. Going to need long shocks :D
 
Things left to do
1. Take driveshafts to Tom's and get rebuilt
2. Go to Evco and get brake lines built, unless ORD is cheaper then order them and put them in.
3. Make front shock mounts
4. Order new shocks
5. cut and weld floor to fill in where shifter doesn't go
6. Modify and put in triple stick shifters
7. Put in B&M ProStick and make a mount for it.
8. Get new PS pump fitting that doesn't weep
9. Fall into some cheap good tires :D
10. Tighten tilt column
11. Get exhaust built
12. Weld tabs on rear axel for shocks
13. Fill diffs and t-cases with fluid
14. Build some sort of front bumper
15. build some sort of rear bumper
16. I/m and register
17. Put full coverage insurance on it

Might be all :D
 
Should have it all done by next week, benifit of being self-ememployed and only having to work 2 hrs a day
 
so what your saying is your not gonna be ready and if I dont drive then we're wheeling the Tahoe????
 
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