beags86
Eastbound and Down
Don't worry, my OCD would kill me have a door to the ground. I would have to weld it shut and bodywork it and paint it.
CK5
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budget beater - . . . HOLMES 220 single line boom wrecker install starting ..
- Thread starter sweetk30
- Start date
Don't worry, my OCD would kill me have a door to the ground. I would have to weld it shut and bodywork it and paint it.
This is a downright stellar build, nice job!
I agree! that color combo is awesome, no frickin way id paint it. What you might want to consider is buffing whole thing out with a wool pad (even the rust) and then throw some wax on it. All the patina stays but its shinier and more preserved. Here's a before/after on a D*dge i did (hope I don't get tarred & feathered for posting this
)
@beags86 paint what ?
if your talking the body . . . your CRAZY MAN
all that factory / mother nature / life applied . . . patina finish would be lost . . . i paid $700.00 bucks for that finish for the donor body . and guys are faking that and charging stupid money for it .
she has the look just like she is . and the black stuff is just semi - gloss i have been using .
I agree! that color combo is awesome, no frickin way id paint it. What you might want to consider is buffing whole thing out with a wool pad (even the rust) and then throw some wax on it. All the patina stays but its shinier and more preserved. Here's a before/after on a D*dge i did (hope I don't get tarred & feathered for posting this
)
If it was me then I would do a single in bed tank up front. I see no reason to spend the time and money for saddle tanks and transfer pumps that will probably just rot out. I like simple and cheap options but to each their own.
i have 2 good efi intank senders with pumps .
i already have 2 new 20 gal efi tanks .
so its nothing to install them and wire the pass side pump power feed to a switch and tee in to the driver side tank to fill it .
and why loose the bed space with the tank .
now if it was a mud truck / trail truck by all means go in bed up high and protected .
so i checked my history at the parts store and wow i have lifetime on dana 60 and k10 10 bolt calipers . . . . i guess the budget beater is getting fresh calipers .
also ordered the rear brake hose kit and a adjustable prop valve to help dial it in for the rear like my old system years ago .
also ordered the rear brake hose kit and a adjustable prop valve to help dial it in for the rear like my old system years ago .
fuel system got a lot closer to being done today .
2 new 20 gal tanks wiped down / scotchbrighted / wiped again / then 2 good coats of transtar undercoat sealer . this stuff hardens up a good bit unlike other brands that stay gooy .the TWIN'S and holding the tanks up outside .
then my redhorse AN fittings come in . converts from o-ring seal AN to quick connect nylon style like the o.e.m have used for years now . 3/8" feed and 5/16" return .
i have the kit to make my own lines . and its fairly easy to do .
2 new 20 gal tanks wiped down / scotchbrighted / wiped again / then 2 good coats of transtar undercoat sealer . this stuff hardens up a good bit unlike other brands that stay gooy .the TWIN'S and holding the tanks up outside .
then my redhorse AN fittings come in . converts from o-ring seal AN to quick connect nylon style like the o.e.m have used for years now . 3/8" feed and 5/16" return .
i have the kit to make my own lines . and its fairly easy to do .
so here is some info i gathered from members and my own on 2wd to 4wd 1/2 ton calipers for disk brake swap . https://ck5.com/forums/threads/disk-brake-rear.335101/
i am using parts from a older disk swap build that i had years ago on a truck before the brackets were so cheep and popular like these days .
3/4 ton front backing plates / spacer ring / calipers and hoses and pads . and 3/4 ford 4wd twin I-beam front brake rotors .
then i got a new prop valve and bracket from summit racing to dial it all in on my truck .
i am using parts from a older disk swap build that i had years ago on a truck before the brackets were so cheep and popular like these days .
3/4 ton front backing plates / spacer ring / calipers and hoses and pads . and 3/4 ford 4wd twin I-beam front brake rotors .
then i got a new prop valve and bracket from summit racing to dial it all in on my truck .
fuel sender changed out the ends from barb bulb to stright pipe . did this with a basic hacksaw with fine blade . then fine file to smoth edges off and clean inside for burr's . then flushed the tubes with brake cleaner . next i am about to swap out the pump for the ep381 and new sock strainer . then install the sender in the tank .
NOTE : still have to press the plastic line on the barbs yet before final install to sender unit . this was just a step by step pic of the mod .
NOTE : still have to press the plastic line on the barbs yet before final install to sender unit . this was just a step by step pic of the mod .
neat little adapter for adding in a fuel pressure gauge port . . they make 3/8" and 5/16" versions .
3/8" fuel line size .
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/fuel-delivery/fueladapterfittings/3-8-efi-fuel-line-adapter.html
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/media/techdocs/installation_manuals/00-01810 00-01812_fuel_feed_adapter_instructions.pdf
5/16" fuel line size .
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/fuel-d...tings/5-16-pushlock-fuel-adapter-fitting.html
3/8" fuel line size .
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/fuel-delivery/fueladapterfittings/3-8-efi-fuel-line-adapter.html
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/media/techdocs/installation_manuals/00-01810 00-01812_fuel_feed_adapter_instructions.pdf
5/16" fuel line size .
http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/fuel-d...tings/5-16-pushlock-fuel-adapter-fitting.html
few more pics of the driver side / primary tank done .
today was productive .
got the steering box off the PLOW MACHINE build . since i have a locker in that trucks front end and want hydro assist i figure take the reg 4wd box and use it on this truck . plus its a AGR box i got in labor trade from ( member upstate . . . r.i.p brother ) and he had only used it for around 5k miles i think he said so its like new .
then i dug out a jeep shaft i got from another member in the past . then i have my ORD bolt in box brace kit ready to install with it . also my new MOOG drag link setup from the PLOW MACHINE truck .
the mix and match of parts is helping get this truck together but at the same time it helps use stuff from others i would not need or have to modify anyways . so unbolt / use on this one and get the correct ones later for the others .
then i got my other new fuel pump sock from NAPA today for the pass side tank i am using the stock tbi sender with tbi pump as a transfer tank to the driver side high pressure pump setup . got it installed and ready to hang on the brackets . . . got to clean them up quick and paint them yet .
i also got the lines run on the engine from the HOLLEY sniper down the back of the engine and over to the driver side frame rail and down to the area for the tank sender . just need to finalize the length yet one my fuel filter get here . i got a WIX 33267 metal unit with mount tab bracket rated for 9micron filtration . they were used on gm fullsize efi cars from 90-93 . they get me the micron size requirement of 10 micron from HOLLEY but better at 9 micron and 3/8" in/out quick connect like my connectors i got up on the sniper unit . basically it will almost be a factory looking setup minus a few tweeks .
then i dug out my power steering pump and remote reservoir unit from a 95 g20 fullsize van i parted years ago . its a direct install on the serp belt bracket and vans were hydroboost so its goo that way . then the remote reservoir will be mounted on the core support to be a fast easy check and fill like the engine oil and trans fluid dip stick units i used from a g-series fullsize van also .
o.k. thats it for now time for a drinky
got the steering box off the PLOW MACHINE build . since i have a locker in that trucks front end and want hydro assist i figure take the reg 4wd box and use it on this truck . plus its a AGR box i got in labor trade from ( member upstate . . . r.i.p brother ) and he had only used it for around 5k miles i think he said so its like new .
then i dug out a jeep shaft i got from another member in the past . then i have my ORD bolt in box brace kit ready to install with it . also my new MOOG drag link setup from the PLOW MACHINE truck .
the mix and match of parts is helping get this truck together but at the same time it helps use stuff from others i would not need or have to modify anyways . so unbolt / use on this one and get the correct ones later for the others .
then i got my other new fuel pump sock from NAPA today for the pass side tank i am using the stock tbi sender with tbi pump as a transfer tank to the driver side high pressure pump setup . got it installed and ready to hang on the brackets . . . got to clean them up quick and paint them yet .
i also got the lines run on the engine from the HOLLEY sniper down the back of the engine and over to the driver side frame rail and down to the area for the tank sender . just need to finalize the length yet one my fuel filter get here . i got a WIX 33267 metal unit with mount tab bracket rated for 9micron filtration . they were used on gm fullsize efi cars from 90-93 . they get me the micron size requirement of 10 micron from HOLLEY but better at 9 micron and 3/8" in/out quick connect like my connectors i got up on the sniper unit . basically it will almost be a factory looking setup minus a few tweeks .
then i dug out my power steering pump and remote reservoir unit from a 95 g20 fullsize van i parted years ago . its a direct install on the serp belt bracket and vans were hydroboost so its goo that way . then the remote reservoir will be mounted on the core support to be a fast easy check and fill like the engine oil and trans fluid dip stick units i used from a g-series fullsize van also .
o.k. thats it for now time for a drinky
dinner break . now digesting the food before more work .
stuff i got done today :
AGR box bolted on for good with a ORD bolt on brace kit .
p/s pump pulley pressed on .
return line from box to pump installed .
ORD sway bar disconnects re-bushed / greased / installed .
sway bar re-bushed with ORD kit / greased / installed .
had to drop off my plow pump drive pulley and crank pulley to the machinist . need a bushing made to have the center boss up-sized to register in the serp belt crank pulley . this plow pump pulley was from the older style engines and smaller center hole in the crank pulley . easy to whip out and told him make it tight so its a press fit on the plow pump pulley but snug on the crank one .
one of the last things i need to do on the suspension is change the worn out bushings on the lift springs upfront then its done .
still have a list to do before fire up
but its getting shorter by the day . 
stuff i got done today :
AGR box bolted on for good with a ORD bolt on brace kit .
p/s pump pulley pressed on .
return line from box to pump installed .
ORD sway bar disconnects re-bushed / greased / installed .
sway bar re-bushed with ORD kit / greased / installed .
had to drop off my plow pump drive pulley and crank pulley to the machinist . need a bushing made to have the center boss up-sized to register in the serp belt crank pulley . this plow pump pulley was from the older style engines and smaller center hole in the crank pulley . easy to whip out and told him make it tight so its a press fit on the plow pump pulley but snug on the crank one .
one of the last things i need to do on the suspension is change the worn out bushings on the lift springs upfront then its done .
still have a list to do before fire up
but its getting shorter by the day .
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man am i glad i have a lift . . . makes it so easy 
well doner truck tanks had 2 good brackets on 1 side . the other side had 1 good and 1 rusted out bad . so after going in my pile of parts i dug out 4 total extra brackets i had . well it took the 1 bad / 1 bottom half / 1 strap all from 3 to remake one . then a pile of scrap on left / good parts middle / rebuilt right .
then i under coated all 4 of them after i cleaned up the welded on nuts and strap stud . got to make sure there good before undercoat and hang time .
well they flashed off good in a hr or so . this let me hang them on the frame and finish off tonight to hang the tanks in the am . but i ran in to a possible problem when i went to hang the left side front bracket . the welded on nuts didnt line up to the holes . been so long i forgot the front brackets use sloped hole layout for the slope of the frame . well i got lucky and the pass side was the same way wrong for his side . so i just swapped the brackets left to right and dodged that bullet of rework .
got my roofing tar paper ready to cut in strips to wrap the tank like factory did and install the tanks in the am . this will let me finish out the lines and crossover to fill the left tank from the right side .
then i under coated all 4 of them after i cleaned up the welded on nuts and strap stud . got to make sure there good before undercoat and hang time .
well they flashed off good in a hr or so . this let me hang them on the frame and finish off tonight to hang the tanks in the am . but i ran in to a possible problem when i went to hang the left side front bracket . the welded on nuts didnt line up to the holes .
been so long i forgot the front brackets use sloped hole layout for the slope of the frame . well i got lucky and the pass side was the same way wrong for his side . so i just swapped the brackets left to right and dodged that bullet of rework . got my roofing tar paper ready to cut in strips to wrap the tank like factory did and install the tanks in the am . this will let me finish out the lines and crossover to fill the left tank from the right side .
I’m amazed. You could build 60 trucks with the ruined rusted chit youve had to chuck over the years if you smeltered them into newwell doner truck tanks had 2 good brackets on 1 side . the other side had 1 good and 1 rusted out bad . so after going in my pile of parts i dug out 4 total extra brackets i had . well it took the 1 bad / 1 bottom half / 1 strap all from 3 to remake one . then a pile of scrap on left / good parts middle / rebuilt right .
then i under coated all 4 of them after i cleaned up the welded on nuts and strap stud . got to make sure there good before undercoat and hang time .
well they flashed off good in a hr or so . this let me hang them on the frame and finish off tonight to hang the tanks in the am . but i ran in to a possible problem when i went to hang the left side front bracket . the welded on nuts didnt line up to the holes .
got my roofing tar paper ready to cut in strips to wrap the tank like factory did and install the tanks in the am . this will let me finish out the lines and crossover to fill the left tank from the right side .
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Glad I’m not in the rust belt
you would have to pick up the rust off the road first to even get close to reuilding 1 truck .
ya i am lucky over the years and got almost the best stuff i could find piled up to make them go together .
after this one the rest of them get a LOT cleaner trust me . this as the title said is a budget beater . heck dont forget this frame was cut in to 3 sections and welded back together .
tanks are on today and strapped down today .
lines finalized and finished except for filter i am waiting for . but thats a easy install .
maybe tomorrow i will start bluming out the brake system hard lines ? ?
also need to swap exhaust manifolds around for a pair i have thats ready to install directly . set on there now have a few broken studs in them . then i can see what y-pipe i want to use . the 2wd or 4wd version . it all depends who is going to clear the front axle .
had the cab back on today for a test fit of the fuel line layout / vent lines clearing stuff / general make sure stuff is clearing i have been adding on .
lines finalized and finished except for filter i am waiting for . but thats a easy install .
maybe tomorrow i will start bluming out the brake system hard lines ? ?
also need to swap exhaust manifolds around for a pair i have thats ready to install directly . set on there now have a few broken studs in them . then i can see what y-pipe i want to use . the 2wd or 4wd version . it all depends who is going to clear the front axle .
had the cab back on today for a test fit of the fuel line layout / vent lines clearing stuff / general make sure stuff is clearing i have been adding on .
oh ya and i changed my mind of the fuel pressure adapter . i found it would be super close to the ignition coil with the stright adapter . so i got this one ordered and it was 10 buck less . http://www.nitrousoutlet.com/fuel-d...rvette-3-8-modular-efi-fuel-line-adapter.html
pic of tanks in and my filter i will be using .
filter is a WIX 33267 and its efi rated for gm full size car's and filters 9micron.
filter is a WIX 33267 and its efi rated for gm full size car's and filters 9micron.
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