CK5
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180 thermostat and fresh radiator...
City maxed at 203 freeway 206 however it's only 86degrees out and it was a 10 min drive on the freeway. Better? Sure... fixed not really. I may go to a non clutch fan with a flex blade. That would pull massive air at all rpm. It's literally a last ditch effort but the truck would probably sit at 180-190 regardless of what it's doing
 
@skunked what fuel pump are you running? What fitech kit?
I have the 600 kit with an ep381 pump, 3/8 feed and return. I just added a pressure gauge but it reads 18psi. I think the gauge is junk, my afr is at 13.5 at idle and 14 freeway. Doesn't bog or lean out and plugs looked like I expected.

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600 kit with timing, ep381 pump, 3/8 feed and 5/16 return. That gauge must be junk, I see 55+psi.

Drive the truck some more before changing fans. I also will agree that some air gaps around or under the shroud could help at freeway speeds.
 
It's worth a shot. I'll drive it to work on Thursday. The stupid gauge sits at 18 even if I'm revving it lol I know it's just stuck there. Pos fitech brand gauge. The fb group warned me, stay away from fcc and the gauges but I had to try the gauge lol

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One other idea, I wonder if spacing out the condenser is hurting flow vs helping?

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I use the same gauge, no issue.

I like the liquid filled gauges too.
Maybe you are special like those guys using the fcc for years with no issue ;)

I think I'm going to owe a bunch of you dudes a meal or something for all the help on this thing.
 
Should be fine. I don't think any of the spacing on the stuff out front will hurt coolant temps. If anything it might affect how well air is drawn through the condenser when sitting still with just the engine fan on.
 
I'm just thinking of a pickup truck, if you sit in the bed on the freeway the air blows over you if you are by the cab, or how a tailgate creates a little vacuum in the bed
 
Yeah but a cab or tailgate does not let air flow through it like a condenser. Might be a small amount of turbulence but I bet its fine. Biggest problems are shroud air gaps and gaps that let air pass by the sides of the radiator. Or a fan that is not set at the proper distance from the shroud with a mechanical clutch.
 
IF i go back to the mechanical setup how close should i get my fan to my radiator? I was going to add a spacer to push the fan as close as possible to the radiator.
 
I may get the parts to try a few different options, I have to figure it out this weekend otherwise this truck has to skip bb17. 3+ hours on the freeway through canyons won't work the way it's setup currently :(
 
I don't think it's the closeness to the radiator that matters so much as not having it into or out of the fan shroud opening too little or too much. I've always shot for having the fan blades centered when looking down at the rear opening of the fan shroud. I'm not sure what the official word on all the measurements are but as long as your engine isn't moved forward or backward a lot from the stock position I would just shoot for getting it in the correct position in relation to the shroud opening. This is the best pic I could find of a truck I fixed up and sold yrs ago. I bought a shroud from rock auto that of course didn't fit . I cut the edges so it sat flat against the radiator and then had to weld a piece of angle iron to the upper radiator mount for the shroud to bolt to and then it didn't stick out far enough towards the engine so I made this cool extension out of some copper sheeting I found at work and riveted it to the shroud. Turned out really well and got the fan blades stick about halfway into the shroud opening.
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Don't push your fan closer. If anything pull it back. If you push it closer it decreases the area the fan effectivily pulls from. Shrouds are there to channel air to a fan you have to give the fan enough room to pull from the entire area the radiator has.

Are any find on your condenser bent?
 
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