CK5
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All I switched today was the fan.

I'm much less worried about the fans now I'm stressing the fitech lol
 
No tach signal... fought it for 4 hours checked everything then started playing with settings. If I switch from tach to 2 wire and save it it starts and runs. Then I shut it off and it won't start until I go in and switch the settings again.
Back and forth back and forth.... think it has a bug

You have something fk'd up. What did you touch? 2 wire is not right.
 
I don't use timing control so I'm just using the tach. To be honest I can't get my head around setting up timing control so eh... lol
I'm just using the tach wire, the one blue wire. Checked my connections, made sure everything was away from power or spark plugs, I legit think it's a glitch in my system. I'm going to sheild the tach wire today and see what happens, once it started running again It ran great.

Btw the only thing I touched/Changed yesterday was the pump
 
I don't use timing control so I'm just using the tach. To be honest I can't get my head around setting up timing control so eh... lol
I'm just using the tach wire, the one blue wire. Checked my connections, made sure everything was away from power or spark plugs, I legit think it's a glitch in my system. I'm going to sheild the tach wire today and see what happens, once it started running again It ran great.

Btw the only thing I touched/Changed yesterday was the pump
The time no control is actually one of the most useful functions about fuel injection.

If your speedo works, you don't need a tach.
 
Tried that, my dual batteries are good.
I have it running now. So trouble shooting is going to be hard.

I was told to sheild my tach wire so I'll do that. As if right now the truck runs. I just don't want it leaving me stranded half way through a trail.

I still say it's a glitch in the ecu
 
I don't think my alternator has enough juice to push everything. That may be some of my issue with the electric fans with the ac, fitech and radio on I have 12.5- 12.9v driving around if I turn off the ac and radio it's 13.9 ish
(Insert think face)
 
Yeah yeah it's a factory option though so it should work lol. Those numbers are with the mechanical fan
 
Are those voltage numbers at idle?
If so, then you may want to look at a newer series alternator. It looks to me that you have an SI series alternator. The next series was CS, and they do better at lower RPM. I have upgraded CS130 units on 4 of my trucks. They are typically are 110 amps cold, (total output) and will do 100 amps at 1100 engine RPM.
The next step up from those are the CS144.
 
I checked Amp draw on my windstars before installing them and that's why they're still sitting on the shelf. The factory alternator isn't exactly a fire breather.
 
I just installed a summit 140 amp alternator, even with everything including the windstar fans I sit at 14v

So just test drove in 90+degree heat with the windstars, on the freeway I peaked at 220 without ac. I tried turning off a fan made no difference, around the city with or without ac 206-210.

So either I hit 220+ on the freeway with windstars or I hit 220+ in the city with the factory style...

Ugh.... the preggo lady says I have to have ac but I sorta want to pull out that condenser.

The only thing I haven't tried is putting the condenser back to the factory position. Maybe it's causing dirty air or turbulence where it's at?

Hmmmm I really just need a smaller condencer. Do you guys think making my truck run richer might help?
 
have you tried reving the engine to whatever your freeway rpm is to see if it overheats sitting still? You can also make sure your hose isn't collapsing.
 
I just installed a summit 140 amp alternator, even with everything including the windstar fans I sit at 14v

So just test drove in 90+degree heat with the windstars, on the freeway I peaked at 220 without ac. I tried turning off a fan made no difference, around the city with or without ac 206-210.

So either I hit 220+ on the freeway with windstars or I hit 220+ in the city with the factory style...

Ugh.... the preggo lady says I have to have ac but I sorta want to pull out that condenser.

The only thing I haven't tried is putting the condenser back to the factory position. Maybe it's causing dirty air or turbulence where it's at?

Hmmmm I really just need a smaller condencer. Do you guys think making my truck run richer might help?
If it's running too lean, it will heat. What's the AFR readings?
 
have you tried reving the engine to whatever your freeway rpm is to see if it overheats sitting still? You can also make sure your hose isn't collapsing.
No I haven't checked but with the mechanical fan it run at 206 at high rpm.
I can look though.

Afrs sit between 13.5 and 14 freeway
My carb was running rich but was heating up at lights also.
 
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My plugs from before were way lean. But my fuel pump was only pushing 20psi

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Ok just checked it in my driveway it's still hot. I had the lady hold the rpm between 2200 and 2500 (my average freeway rpm)
Hoses are good. After a few mins it got up to 208.

Hmmm now what?
I'm really bugged it never had an issue like this.
 
Have you used a temp gun to see what you find what things look like in and out of the radiator? Maybe that might tell you a tiny bit??
I am sort of wondering about what I told you about the water pump.
I don't remember ever having this much of a problem with my '70, when it had a good water pump. ( Remember that it has less radiator than yours.) I do have less cam..., but still....
 

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