CK5
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Pretty sure that’s cruise control. And that vacuum ball pic is an 80’s truck. 70’s was over by hvac box.
 
Terrible screen shot but...
Now I will be on the hunt for one of those!

I did get the vacuum actuator replaced today and on a hunch I looked at the blend door and that plastic clip thing was busted. Luckily I had an aluminum replacement.

I do have one more mystery... I found and all black vacuum hose not connected to anything. It seems to have vacuum when the ac is set to heat or defrost. All the other lines are connected... any ideas?

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The diagram I have doesn't show an all black hose in that area. And all the others are connected so I'm stumped.

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I'm having an "if you give a mouse a cookie" moment... (if you catch the reference)

Since I'm fixing the last of the little things with the AC I decided it needed new vents... and since I was replacing the vents I really wanted a new dash bezel... and since I'm doing a new bezel I really want a new dash pad (mine is currently covered with carpet)... then I wanted some new trim pieces... and sound deadner and heat barrier and so on...

Well shit... I guess I went from fixing vacuum lines to redoing the interior. That was a little sting in the pocket but it knocks out all the stuff that has been bugging me.

Either I'll love it or it will be a selling point if I sell it lol.

On another note. I didn't realize lmc was selling gm official parts now. Most the parts I have been ordering have the logo and hologram.
 
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I have owned squarebodys since I was 14. I have always wanted one with a nice factory style dash pad that wasn't shot. I finally pulled the trigger and ordered one for this truck.

I also did some rebuilding on my guages and now all the dash lights work and I think I could probably get the factory guages to work if I can find the wires for the factory sensors.

I removed my cb radio and am in the process of removing as much aftermarket wiring as possible or dead wires that don't do anything. I am trying to simplify things so it is easier to work on in the future.

I also decided to start working on sound deadening the cab. I did 80mil killmat, 150mil closed cell foam, Jute heat and sound barrier and the EVA sound deadner mat. The front of my cab now has 4 layers of insulation under the carpet. Probably overkill but the noise was awful. I'll do the back half soon.

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I would have installed the dash pad on Monday but I broke the trim that holds on the ac vents.

Here is the home carpet pad I was using before lol.

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Little more progress tonight. New A pillars, dash bezel, dash pad , vents and light switch handle. I also put a factory style steering wheel in a while ago but I can't seem to get the horn to work (never has but I had hopes it would). Eventually I'll dig into that and replace my horn button with the factory button. I also installed the microphone for the hands free on the stereo so I can make calls if I can quite down the cab. As I have time I plan to fully kilmat and closed cell foam both doors. With a baby coming any day it may take a minute to get to it :)

Also attached are pictures showing all the layers of sound/heat barrier it has now.

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I think I may have found my power leak that has bothered me for years that caused me to hard wire trickle chargers on my truck....

I was checking the wiring for my rear window switch and I ran across this relay that was extremely hot to the touch. The truck hasn't been on or even had the keys near it in days so it shouldn't be on or hot. I checked the wiring and both the pink wire and the orange wire are 12v hot all the time and no matter what I do I can't get it to feed 12v to the red wire that powers the switch. When I make a jumper from the orange to the red the window switch works great. I have a feeling GM had this relay so you needed a key to work the rear window/tailgate from inside and outside the cab. Note with all this torn apart the key switch on the tailgate still works fine. Only the cab switch was having issues.

Anyone know if the pink and black needs to be key on power? I think the dealer that rewired my truck many many years ago may have messed this up and the relay has been stuck on and slowly cooking for a very long time.

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I don't know if it's universal, but I've used pink/black wires under the hood and they've always been hot only when the key was on.
 
These are for 89, but might help. I circled the circuit on the fuse block that is a pink wire and it says ignition powered.

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