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Burnt burb resurrection (It's mine again!)

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Mine was a bad connector wire from the coil to the distributor, oddly enough, Autozone sells the replacement wire for like $15 or so.

This was my random stalling issue I had been fighting for several years, almost gave up on it, been sitting in Indiana at my parents place for the past two years.

It left me stranded in St. Louis,MO. once on my way back from Indiana to Arizona, cost me a pretty good chunk of change from a trailer rental, two parents vehicles gas coverage, needed two vehicles as I was pulling a trailer, time off work I offered to reimburse,,, yeah, all for a $15 wire I couldn't track down.
 
replacing a little wire connector is a good next step.. way better than trying the ECM next :waytogo: I don't wanna spend that and then it not be the issue either...
 
After some other thread questions,
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=317259&page=3
we'll continue from them

It doesn't seem to lose power to anything else at all.... your just driving and the motor acts like you turned the key off all at once. rest stays on.

and it is definitely getting fuel.... hadn't started it in quite a while and tried last night.... fired for a bit ran rough and died. wouldn't start again. this (NEW problem:doah:) is what I found..... Leaking around the shaft

DSCF3252[1].JPG
 
Leak is no good, but obviously nothing to do with a no-spark issue.

Do you have any of the diagrams showing the ignition circuit? With no spark, need to start at power to the distributor from the fuse panel, whichever that wire is. That will point you one way or the other. If the distributor isn't getting power, the problem is before the distributor. Since it won't spark for 20-30 seconds, you've got some time to play with, but still going to be tough to know if voltage "comes back" before you can test, or between when you test and when you put it back together.

Take the multimeter with, have it accessible so when it dies you can check for voltage. Don't jab through the wire insulation, disconnect the plug(s) and test at the terminals. Firewall fuse panel connector is normally coated in that "tar" stuff, but sometimes you can jam the meter probe through it and get contact to whatever terminal you are dealing with. Probably easier to do quickly than trying to disconnect the distributor connectors.
 
for getting in plugs like that you just push a needle into the back of it down to the metal and clip your leads on that.... I can do that.. gotta find a wiring diag. first. Not gonna matter if I have that leak though..... it may not fare as well with a SECOND underhood fire:doah:
 
thanks.... that's a great start for me:waytogo: buyin a new book for it this weekend. Not sure what to do about the TB though:confused:
 
just checking this smiley

:mrb:

edit; Dam
 
looks like if I DO get it to run I'll be rebuilding the throttlebody. Where is the best place to get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

And if I was to get a set of vortec heads for CHEAP off a running motor can I use the factory intake from that motor with my TB?
 
after looking it up I realize that its a WAY different animal:haha: never mind the intake:rolleyes:
 
Ok. Update.

I finally got back to this thing. Sitting up in the engine compartment watching the injectors and holding a timing light.

It has PLENTY of gas going through it. Almost seemed like too much to me:dunno:

Timing lights only flash when it senses a spark right :confused: If so I'm completely lost now because even when it was winding down after dying my light was flashing:dunno:

Now the real question......... After it stops running fuel runs out of the injectors for a few seconds and pools on top of the flaps (or whatever they're called) in the tbi.

Without a pop or back flash this fuel started on fire after about the 3rd time of dying. there was NO apparent ignition source and it didn't even run long enough to get hot soooo.......??:dunno: How could it ignite?
 
shady said:
Ok. Update.

I finally got back to this thing. Sitting up in the engine compartment watching the injectors and holding a timing light.

It has PLENTY of gas going through it. Almost seemed like too much to me:dunno:

Timing lights only flash when it senses a spark right :confused: If so I'm completely lost now because even when it was winding down after dying my light was flashing:dunno:

Now the real question......... After it stops running fuel runs out of the injectors for a few seconds and pools on top of the flaps (or whatever they're called) in the tbi.

Without a pop or back flash this fuel started on fire after about the 3rd time of dying. there was NO apparent ignition source and it didn't even run long enough to get hot soooo.......??:dunno: How could it ignite?
Click to expand...


I haven't followed too much either, but this is the same issue I had. I replaced the cts to no avail. turned out to be the MAP sensor was cracked along with the vacuum tube to the back of the tbi. Map sensor is 30 bucks, and the vacuum line is cheap.
 
that's on the intake right? and has anyone ever heard of this
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...7/20974230-P?navigationPath=L1*14923|L2*15032

WTH is an engine shutdown switch.... found that while looking up ecm's. bought ready to just buy a new ECM and every other sensor there is on this thing:rolleyes: I bypassed the whole main part of the harness and ran to the coil directly from the battery and still had the same issue...... has to be in the harness or sensors somehow.... I'll look at that MAP and the tube when I've completed a few beers:haha: fire made me lose motivation:rolleyes:
 
MAYBE....? I mentioned a while back that it would usually start and run fine till it started warming up, Then sometimes would just die... and if I let it cool down a few hrs and came back it would run again....

same as earlier. It ran for me long enough to check the timing, watch the tbi, ect. then had a hard time starting for a while... I gave up.... went back out just now and it ran again for a while then finally died once more....
so I unhooked the temp sensor in the front of the intake and it started back up, ran for about 5 min (way longer than normal) then let me drive it to the other side of my house to get it out of the way of my upcoming yard project.

It hasn't ran more than a minute or 2 in weeks. couldn't trust it to move from its spot:doah:

So im buying a new one and gonna let it run in the yard for a while to see........



Why my tbi went up in flame is still beyond me:dunno:
 
fuel accumulating in the throttle body shouldn't happen.

As far as i know, ever.

So, that may be a lead.
 
it seems to put out a decent amount of gas after it dies... never runs low during idle. never speeds up all fast either so :dunno: is too much that big of deal at idle? also I have noticed its never really done it under load..... ITs almost always done it at idle or coming to a stop
 
Did you actually check the MAP sensor?

If that signal is gone the engine basically just gets fuel dumped at it by the injectors. I left mine disconnected on accident once and it ran like a badly tuned carb. Smoked, stumbled, only ran okay when I had the hammer down, and backfired horribly.
 
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