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Burnt burb resurrection (It's mine again!)

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That's my thought. Typically if it still runs with the idle screw backed all the way out it's a vacuum leak.
 
I'll check it all over again tonight. It was dark when I got done last night. I held the lever back with no change, but I think my return spring needs tightened up a bit too. It's almost at full relaxed at idle. The whole coolant system was drained so I'm going to drive it tonight to get any air caught in there out. I don't know why the gauge was reading so low compared to how it felt. It dieseld for a second when I killed it also. I believe that was due to being at 10* btdc and the high heat combined ..... Just guessing though
 
I talked to a guy at work that told me Im supposed to have blocked a few ports in the intake gaskets. The felpros I bought had no plates with them so every port in the head was open through the gaskets. And the intake had a hole to match for every one of them too... Is he on to something or confused?
 
Probably if you look them up on like summit there should be installation instructions that tell you when to use what block offs.
 
I've never used blockoffs of any kind before...? Never knew you had to ever. I've put a new intake on 5 or 6 of my past sbc's and changed intake gaskets on a few others. Never had an issue before... This intake does have a rear coolant crossover (I guess some don't...?) Those are the ones that the guy here (ex GM mechanic) said should be blocked. They were not blocked on the factory intake though. I really wish I would have/could have blocked the exhaust ports though. Don't know that I like that much heat getting into my intake
 
I'll look into commonly done blockoffs and why... See what I can find
 
Do NOT block off the rear passage, sometime there are block off or restricter plates for the heat riser in the middle of the intake to heat the air charge for emissions.
 
Slapperbar said:
Do NOT block off the rear passage, sometime there are block off or restricter plates for the heat riser in the middle of the intake to heat the air charge for emissions.
Click to expand...
I know them plates are for the exhaust ports now. But I found out that you don't have to block the rear ones usually because there isn't a full passage in any of the intakes in the rear. I had it explained that by joining the heads back there the coolant can now more easily take the path of least resistance and allow 1 side to heat up more than the other.... Which may explain why my 3+5 cylinder part of my drivers side manifold was smoking so bad..... May be all speculative BS too, but there isnt a crossover passage back there usually for a reason im guessing.

I'm going to do what i can to fix it without pulling the intake though. I don't want to do it again lol
 
First thing I'm doing when I get home is moving my temp gauge to the front of the intake where I should have put it before anyway lol. At least I'll know how hot its really getting then hopefully.
 
Well after some testing and hooking the factory gauge back up it looks like its NOT getting hot....:dunno: sure feels it. But both guages are almost the same after setting on an 1100 rpm idle for about 15 minutes. And the look like about 180 degrees.

Fuel pressure is at 5
Timing is at 2* btdc because if I go to 8 or 10 it idles at about 1400 or so. Once again :dunno:

I'm guessing that it's just the carb adjustments. I don't know if it makes a difference but the carb was tuned on a motor with a 6al box and a different cam. Once I drive it around the block a few times to see if its staying running its going over to the race shop for tuning by someone who actually knows how lol.... I need to learn it but I can do that later. This needs to run for once:haha:
 
It's going in to the shop next Thursday (3rd) to get the carb tuned, timing and advance set, TV cable checked/set, and the TC lockup wired and set up. Been starting and running great lately... Until the first cold night lol... Then the battery took a chit on me. Had to get a new one. Think it's all good now:grin:
 
I'm happy as can be :woot:. Been way too long. Rust monster caught up with it in the down time too:mad:. Couldn't be avoided I guess. Holes in a bunch of the lower 4"
 
It just dawned on me that maybe my crap azz battery was dipping volts enough to mess up the computer before....... It's about the only thing that was never changed lol. I've heard of that messing cars up before
 
Lol..... yeah .. NO :) maybe a FAST setup or Atomic efi someday after a motor swap. Not for a while though lol
 
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