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C30 6.0, is NOW a burb swap, thread.

Equipped with the 706 head upgrade and mild COMP 265 cam, the 6.0L produced 487 hp at 6,100 rpm and 478 lb-ft of torque at 4,800 rpm. Thanks to the added compression from the 706 heads, torque production improved through the entire rev range. I got this from here. I have an LQ9 not the LQ4 that they used. of course it’s all about your use or purpose but the tune shop graph for my engine had improved torque just around 1300 & peaked @ 503ft lbs @ 4650.
https://www.cpgnation.com/lets-talk-torque-ls-truck-upgrades/

I agree that big cubes is the best way to add torque but it cost me under $1000 that works for my situation

Lol, I'm not sure I've ever hit 4800 rpm in my dually... Don't really intend to even. So numbers up there are useless for this application. :waytogo:.
99.9% of my driving in this happens like 3800 and below.
That may change when I have an LS with an auto :dunno:, but if I decide it's not what I want I'll just build the BB coming out and put it back in.

Then the LS will get re adjusted to be a tire burning rpm monster for the lowered 2wd burb :D. Should only be a cam change and tune no matter which way I build it at this time.

Either way this experiment will be fun, and I'll gain a gear. :burnout:
 
Most diesels have a long stroke compared to gas engines and large bores,both of which create more torque at lower rpms ...and they are often coupled to high gearing in the rear diff so the torque curve is matched better to the engine's rpm.

Some gas engines like the 292 straight six with a 4.125" stroke made 280 ft/lbs at 1600 rpms,but only had 165 hp... and a 300 Ford six created up to 283 ft/lbs @ 1600 rpms with a 3.98" stroke, and 170 HP @ 3800 rpms..

The old saying goes :
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I have a 6 HP Briggs on one of my tractors..it has a longer stroke than another Tecumseh engine I have that is also a 6 HP,but the Briggs will out pull it with it just chugging along,the Tecumseh needs to be would up to about 3000 rpms to do the same work..(and often stalls !).
A Wisconsin engine that is 7.25 HP I have has a longer stroke than the Briggs and it is about impossible to lug down low enough to stall it..granted it has a heavier flywheel,but its the long stroke that gets the work done ..
Long stroke engines generally don't like high rpms and tend to come apart if revved too high though..
Isn’t the compression way up there in the Diesel engine too? It’s a whole other animal for sure.
 
Lol, I'm not sure I've ever hit 4800 rpm in my dually... Don't really intend to even. So numbers up there are useless for this application. :waytogo:.
99.9% of my driving in this happens like 3800 and below.
That may change when I have an LS with an auto :dunno:, but if I decide it's not what I want I'll just build the BB coming out and put it back in.

Then the LS will get re adjusted to be a tire burning rpm monster for the lowered 2wd burb :D. Should only be a cam change and tune no matter which way I build it at this time.

Either way this experiment will be fun, and I'll gain a gear. :burnout:
Your wife gave you the green light too. That’s always an added plus...
I think around 3800 my graph would be in the 350ft lbs of torque but I’m using it in a 69 K5 not a monster dually. Lol
No mater what you decide, you are going to have fun getting to where you want to be.
 
Lol, I'm not sure I've ever hit 4800 rpm in my dually... Don't really intend to even. So numbers up there are useless for this application. :waytogo:.
99.9% of my driving in this happens like 3800 and below.
Exactly. Small block LS have their good numbers at 4800+ RPM. Below 3800 they are rather mild. Below 2000 they get good MPG.
 
Lol, I'm not sure I've ever hit 4800 rpm in my dually... Don't really intend to even. So numbers up there are useless for this application. :waytogo:.
99.9% of my driving in this happens like 3800 and below.
That may change when I have an LS with an auto :dunno:, but if I decide it's not what I want I'll just build the BB coming out and put it back in.

Then the LS will get re adjusted to be a tire burning rpm monster for the lowered 2wd burb :D. Should only be a cam change and tune no matter which way I build it at this time.

Either way this experiment will be fun, and I'll gain a gear. :burnout:

Depending on the rear gear in the dually, I guarantee you'll see 4,800 rpm and more with the 6.0 in there.
 
According to grimmjeeper my truck will be doing 1870 rpm at 55 mph. And just over 2000 at 60.

Ordered engine/trans mounts, and a shifter. Probably order headers tomorrow.

Next 3 paychecks, will show me how far into the rabbit hole I'll probably go.
 
I have no idea where the shift points of that trans are though :dunno:.

Only 4l80 I have experience with really is the one at work. Which is usually less than 15 mph
 
I have an old diablo. But I have to have it reloaded, and I think it was a pretty simple one.

From what I can see so far, it looks like most of the stroker stuff is probably out of my range. So maybe I'll do a decent tuner instead. It seems like a good tune goes a long way with these.
 
A diablo is a programmer. A tuner can adjust everything. The quickest fixes are reducing torque management and enabling performance enrichment. After that, the gains come from custom tuning the maps to that vehicle, which a programmer can't do. Won't do much for low-end torque, but can improve MPG.

The 4L80-E has the same gear ratios as the TH-400, but with O/D added. Stock, they came with high stall converters to kind of compensate for 1st gear not being very deep and getting the LS up into the rev range it likes. To go from 7.4 to 6.0, you would normally drop the axle ratio a step or two.
 
Right now I'm at 4.10s and 245/75/16s.

I would have done a 7.4 if I could get what I wanted. But this is my current cheapest option even if I did stroke it.

For a 7.4 I'd do a gen 6 with the electronics changed to go sequential multiport, and stroke it to an even 4.25x4.25.
May have been an even price, but I'd still have to add a gear somehow. Which would have put it over probably.

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Parts wise, it looks like the headers are back ordered a little bit, but my biggest part of not ordering them today is it says I need their wires. And it asks about 10" or 12".... Is that a preference, or are they different types :dunno:.
Just makes me wonder why they ask.
I know there's 2 types of coil, which is what made me wonder if the wires are different between the 2
 
Isn’t the compression way up there in the Diesel engine too? It’s a whole other animal for sure.
Yes,in order for it to be a diesel it requires the compression ratio to be in the 18:1 range minimum,for it to be able to ignite the fuel by compression alone..the higher compression and more BTU's in diesel does add up to more useable power & torque..
 
A diablo is a programmer. A tuner can adjust everything. The quickest fixes are reducing torque management and enabling performance enrichment. After that, the gains come from custom tuning the maps to that vehicle, which a programmer can't do. Won't do much for low-end torque, but can improve MPG.

The 4L80-E has the same gear ratios as the TH-400, but with O/D added. Stock, they came with high stall converters to kind of compensate for 1st gear not being very deep and getting the LS up into the rev range it likes. To go from 7.4 to 6.0, you would normally drop the axle ratio a step or two.

The diablo sport intune I1000 is the one I have.
It will do all the axle ratio, auto theft, shift points, pressures, etc. But for a custom tune it has to data log and then someone else makes a tune for you off of that I think. Can't remember at the moment, but that sounds right. Phone data here sucks so I can't download the manual.
 
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Parts wise, it looks like the headers are back ordered a little bit, but my biggest part of not ordering them today is it says I need their wires. And it asks about 10" or 12".... Is that a preference, or are they different types :dunno:.
Just makes me wonder why they ask.
I know there's 2 types of coil, which is what made me wonder if the wires are different between the 2

If it's the SpeedEngingeering headers, you don't need their wires. I run stock replacement wires with mine. A few were close to the tubes so I put some heat sleeves over them.

Truck coils are different than car coils. My local stores only stock the longer wires and sell those for all applications.
 
Yes I was confused because their site says you NEED their wires. I thought that was weird, but I'm new to these lol. The few ls trucks be owned I've never had to touch.

Until my kids burb anyway :doah:. Still trying to figure that one out.
 
Well, I'm mid snag :doah:.
A while back our 5 yr old accidentally took out one of my wife's front teeth with a tape measure. She brought home a big azz bill today. So half of what I had from this next check is gone already:frown.

But I still have the money for headers, I'll have about enough to get my cam, and maybe the gaskets.

So I'll have to OT the chit out of the next couple of weeks and see if I can get the rest up.

Stroker is out, but I may still have the block gone through and bored to make a poor man's 6.2.

The cam is just a touch bigger than a stock L92. So it should be pretty close to 410hp/420ftlbs. Compression will be a few points lower too though, so :dunno: not sure where it'll even out, or where the curve will start.
Stock L92 is like 405/417 and 10.5:1
My current plan ends up at about 10:1-10.1:1 with 10 more degrees duration at .50 on the intake/exhaust and the same lift.
 
Didn't you say that you didn't want to run premium earlier? If so you'll probably want to stay below 10.0 in order to do so. You can run less timing with 87 and a 10.5 but you'll be leaving power on the table.
 
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