carps 89 K5 build (how not to put a k5 on a trailer)

[Dafey]

Your K5 Looks really good!

 

[carpeonnel]

thanks man. Appreciate it

 

[Col_Sanders]

Damn nonmemberness. Cant see pics or pm. How much you want for the 241?

 

[carpeonnel]

pony up for a membership, it's well worth it. Not entirely sure how much I'm gonna sell it for yet, but couple other members have already PMed me about it. So if I do sell it and they don't want it i'll hit you up

 

[Col_Sanders]

Membership ran out 2 days ago. It will be re-upped Tuesday.

 

[carpeonnel]

I gotcha. My membership ran out last year and it took me a week almost to figure out what was going on

 

[carpeonnel]

Well I did some measuring the other day to figure out what my driveshaft situation was gonna be and this is what I figured out.

My current tranny/t-case length (700/241) is: 40in
new setup (465/205) is: 37in
So the setup is going to be 3in shorter approx.

These are all my rough measurements

A.)-distance from pinion to imaginary horizontal line from t-case - 20in
B.)-distance from tcase rear output to imaginary line vertical of pinion - 34in
C.)-driveshaft length from pinion yoke to rear output - 39.5in
(trying to do the Pathagorean Theorem here , thought I'd never use the math I used in school)
it seems that length of B is going to lengthen by 3in, it is now 37in

So by doing the math: A2+B2=C2
400+1369=1769, take the square root of that and my driveshaft will now lengthen to 42.06. Roughly 2.5in longer. I figured I'd longer my Blazer 2in to help combat that, since I was wanting to lower it anyways it should work out well (got about 10in of lift right now)

New calculations if I lower Blazer 2in:
324+1369=1693 approx. 41.15in
Drop it 3in - 40.7in
and so forth. I think this will work out fine because right now my rear driveshaft is only extended out 1in from fully compressed. Haven't measured the full spline length of rear driveshaft but I think i've got 6-7in of spline length and this will leave me with approx 4.25. What ya think? I was just kind of proud of myself for doing the math

 

[carpeonnel]

also, I think I'm gonna go with a stock hydro pedals setup if I can find one instead of using the wilwood pedal I got. Think it'll look alot better and function better if I go with the chevrolet stuff. Gonna start pulling and tearing down this weekend or first of next week. Been consulting with a couple CK5ers with some experience on this and gonna try and do as complete a write up as I can as I couldn't find a good thread on this for noobs such as myself

 

[carpeonnel]

somebody has a third pedal in the cab now Installed the willwood clutch pedal and wilwood mastercylinder this evening amidst the rain. Seems to function well, just need to tighten everything down and cut the brake pedal down to size. Can't find my digital camera but here's a preliminary pic I took with my phone. Monday when I get off work I'll take some more pics of what I did and were I setup everything.

Also took my chrome fender trim off to trim the front fenders a little more. I think I like it more with the sissy chrome off

 

[skyyk5]

Lookin good.

 

[carpeonnel]

has anybody had any problems with the firewall crackin and breaking where pedal and master cylinder meet? I've basically got the master cylinder and pedal sandwiching the firewall, but after the (2) 5/16 holes I drilled for the mouting bolts and the 1 1/2in hole I cut for the master cylinder, it just looks like over time that thin firewall might collapse

 

[skyyk5]

I never did, but I've been running stock pedals and master. With the stock you have brackets running to the firewall for the master to bolt to. Your master and pedal sandwiches the firewall right? if so there should not be a problem. If you want see if there is a way to run a support to the stock pedals or the colum bolts.

 

[carpeonnel]

I'm probably gonna find some scrap and make a plate just to increase the thickness of that area. Don't really see a good way of bracing it. Think it'll be easier just to weld up a steel plate over that whole area and recut the holes. It probably doesn't even need the extra plating, but it would make me feel better

 

[carpeonnel]

here's my pedals now, before and after brake pedal trim

 

[carpeonnel]

also went ahead and cut my stock exhaust out of the way for easy tranny removal. Hopefully me and a buddy are gonna get the tranny pulled tomorrow.

Cut the exhaust cuz I picked up some freebies the other day....

Flowmaster super 40s, also have the stainless steel tips but I doubt I use them. Picked up the hedmans in a trade and bought a 2 1/2 crossover pipe from Summit, just gotta reduce the flowmasters down cuz they're 3in in and 3in out

 

[Chevy305]

hey if you're not using those tips.....

 

[sledheadak]

whats the part number for the wilwood master? is the slave gm or wilwood?

 

[chevyridinhigh79]

where did you get your floor mats at carpeonnel?

 

[carpeonnel]

I'll pm you if I decide not to use them. They're in pretty good shape. just the normal wear and tear. i'm kind of anti-bling if you can't tell, so I might actually go with some black powder coated tips I saw the other day. Looked pretty pimp. It's using a stock slave for a gm (at least I believe it is). When we get the old stuff out and start putting the new tranny/t-case in i'll snag a pic for ya. Not sure what the part # is on the wilwood master, i'll look when I get back to my house tomorrow and see if there is one. It came with the whole lot so I didn't order it. The floor mats I actually picked up on sale at Autozone I think a couple years ago. They're kind of small but they look good

 

[carpeonnel]

Chevy305 I wanted to ask you how you like the centerforce setup and is it worth it. My setup came with a clutch and pressure plate with less than a 1K on it supposedly, but I'm gonna go ahead and go with some new stuff and was wondering if the centerforce was worth the dinero