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D44 Dana 44 & 14BFF 14 Bolt Full Floating Rebuild (Complete!)

The D44 is ready to bolt in...

D44ReadytoBoltIn.jpg


Brake lines from Afcoracing.com came in!:D
Brakehosesandfittings.jpg


Brakehose.jpg


The only thing I haven't worked out with the brake lines is how to go from the rear hose to the T to the hard lines...:doah: Hopefully I can find an adapter to work here in town instead of having to order one.

The U-bolts from ORD and the draglink from Skyy have come in, the only thing I'm worried about is the draglink length. The one I ordered from a member was 40" end to end, and when I measured that appeared to be correct but the one I recieved last week is only like 31" long... I picked up one of the extra long TRE's so I can probably make it work but I kinda wish it had been a little longer.

How long is your crossover draglink length on your D44?:confused:

Thanks,
Justin
 
did you order an extra set of everything or are you going to run the same type setup up front. If so i think you need to order some more parts! If you look in that PBB link i sent you. It shows how he put the bracket on the bottom of the frame. that should be all you need to do. Then run the adapter you have through the frame and slide the clip on that holds it. Your hard line should thread into the other side of the adapter and then run your hard line to the "T" fitting. Do this for both sides and you should be good to go.
 
Well I'm just running one of these line on the rear, down to the "T" then to hard lines that will run to two small rubber lines I picked up locally. The only concern I have is if they're DOT legal and, the 90* parts replace the banjo fittings so I'm not sure how you stop them from turning... I might be making another order. We'll see after I get the axles in.:wink1:
 
on the 90* fitting. just crew it in til the o-ring meets up with the caliper, then tighten down the jamnut. the jamnut will keep it from turning and also keeps a seal on the o-ring.
 
Oh alright, they looked like one piece, but I guess that is a jam nut.:o

So now getting that one line to adapt to the tee... hmm...
 
it could be done but i think your best bet is to run two brake lines in the rear. you could call up afco again and ask them if they make a union/nipple thats 3/16 male/AN-4 male. then you could just screw it into the T and then connect your hose.
 
the only thing I'm worried about is the draglink length. The one I ordered from a member was 40" end to end, and when I measured that appeared to be correct but the one I recieved last week is only like 31" long... I picked up one of the extra long TRE's so I can probably make it work but I kinda wish it had been a little longer.

How long is your crossover draglink length on your D44?:confused:
Click to expand...

I just went out an measured mine. Diagonally just the tube is 37". Center of TRE to TRE is 42" Diagonally.

31" sounds way too short unless its straight then maybe.

Question. What X-over arm are you running? The reason I ask is with zero rates and a standard arm the draglink will contact or be very close to the pass side spring. Thats the downfall to the flat top knuckles and a big tie rod. The Tie rod mounts on the top of the knuckles whick causes interference with the springs. Zero rates fix that but cause interference probs with the draglink. If you havent bought an arm already go with Sky's tall D44 arm to eliminate having to use a spacer. The spacers ar hard on the studs.


Here is mine

1st pic with no spacer under my arm. Very close to spring and makde contact just while turning lock to lock or with any flex.

2nd Pic 1" spacer under the steering arm.

3rd Pic Spacer under arm and driver side tire stuffed. Just small amount of contact on the D/L. It scrapes the paint but not actually gouging the metal or anything.

109_0934.JPG

112_1219.JPG

112_1215.JPG
 
Justin, reviving an old dead thread. Where are you on this build now?
 
Damni forgot about this thread. I'm gonna be doing mine this summer. I was gonna get a 60 but i really haveno need for something that big
 
Col_Sanders said:
Damn, in that pic you can really see how big the tierod is!

I hope to be doing this in the next few months. Hope my rebuild wont take a year though. :D
Click to expand...
He's using a "first design" front axle which means the housing tubes are 2.75" in diameter. The "second design" use 3" tubes.
Thats probably why the tie rod looks so thick.
 
Ok well I'm almost healed up... should be finishing this thing soon...:doah:

MTBlazer I already bought the crossover arm so I might end up with a spacer as well... We'll see.:thinking:

Got my brake lines figured out, it's all braided stainless steel lines... As far as I can tell there shouldn't be any problems with the setup I have... but I haven't seen anyone else run it how I am going to, so it's an experiment...:haha:

I recently realized that I might have forgotten to put the tiny seals in the spindles on the D44 for the needle bearings... haven't decided if I'm tearing them back down to check or not though.:crazy:

Compiled this parts list with numbers a while back, but forgot to post it... I think it's pretty accurate, but double check them or ask me to before you buy stuff.:waytogo:
 
Forgot to post the actual list.:doah:

14bff Bearing/Race Retaining Ring – GM Part # - 15702309
D44 or 10bolt Steering Arm Cone Washer – GM Part # - 3965138
NP241 Front Input Seal (Double Lipped) – GM Part # - 14095609
NP241 to Adapter Gasket – GM Part # - 24242395
Remanned Brake Calipers from a ’73 K20 – 18-4045 & 18-4046
Rotors from a ’73 K20 – BD60427
14bff Inner Wheel Bearing – 387AS
14bff Inner Bearing Race – 382A
14bff Outer Bearing and Race – A38
14bff Wheel Seal – 2081
D44 Inner Seal – 416273
D44 Inner Race – 362A
D44 Inner Bearing – 368A
D44 Outer Bearing and Race – A35
D44 Axle U-Joint – Super Strength Precision – 377
7/16 Banjo Bolts – Motormite – 13935
9/16-18 x 2 3/4” Rear Wheel Studs – Dorman – 610-188
9/16-18 x 2 1/8” Front Wheel Studs – Dorman – 610-180
9/16-18 Chrome Lug Nuts – Dorman – 711-504 (4 Pack)
D44 Upper Ball Joint – Moog – K8194T
D44 Lower Ball Joint – Moog – K8195T
TRE – ES2010R & ES2010L
Conversion U-Joint for 14bff – 447
Brake Pads from ’73 K20 – MKD52
 
Taking things into my own hands... tired of waiting for the old guy.:crazy:

Been doing a good bit of reading, and I'm pretty sure I can handle it. The 14 bolt is much easier to do than any other axle. No shims on the carrier or pinion themselves. I'm going to pick up a dial indicator and magnetic base from Harbor Freight on Thursday to check back lash.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=623

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5645

The only thing I'm really worried about is the crush sleeve... it's going to be a bitch to do without a press to get it started... and I'm up for suggestions on measuring bearing preload without purchasing a dial type inch pound torque wrench...:confused:

Think I'll put MrK5's design to good use for the crush sleeve.:D

extension.jpg
 
mr.smartass said:
Taking things into my own hands... tired of waiting for the old guy.:crazy:

Been doing a good bit of reading, and I'm pretty sure I can handle it. The 14 bolt is much easier to do than any other axle. No shims on the carrier or pinion themselves. I'm going to pick up a dial indicator and magnetic base from Harbor Freight on Thursday to check back lash.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=623

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5645

The only thing I'm really worried about is the crush sleeve... it's going to be a bitch to do without a press to get it started... and I'm up for suggestions on measuring bearing preload without purchasing a dial type inch pound torque wrench...:confused:

Think I'll put MrK5's design to good use for the crush sleeve.:D

extension.jpg
Click to expand...

You may be out of luck for measuring the pinion preload, as I don't know any other way to do it. What's the preload supposed to be on a 14-Best-Friends-Forever anyway? :D
 
Remind me and I'll bring my torque wrench to the MM on the 20th.
Not sure how I would go about getting it back though, and at $170 I'm not going to give it away.:eek1:
 
readymix said:
Remind me and I'll bring my torque wrench to the MM on the 20th.
Not sure how I would go about getting it back though, and at $170 I'm not going to give it away.:eek1:
Click to expand...

Either that or I'll send mine to Justin when I'm done with my 10b. Mine reads 0-30 in/lb, so it should be perfect for that.
 
I have seen the pic above pop up a couple of times and it disturbs me. You cannot just add a length to a torque wrench and then multiply the torque by that distance to get your torque value. This is what I do at my current job and I get to make people do their work over when it is not right:deal:.

Here is how we calculate the use of extensions.

5.2.2 Torque Wrenches.
a. Selection. Torque wrenches should be selected in such a manner that the required final torque falls within 20% to 90% of the torque wrench range. For example: A torque wrench with a scale range of
0-100 ft-lbs can be used for a maximum torque of 90 ft-lbs and a minimum torque of 20 ft-lbs.
b. Calibration. Calibration should be verified to be within the required periodicity (based on due date on the calibration label) prior to use. Most Navy torque wrenches are calibrated for use in one direction only. These tools will have a label affixed stating, "Use Clockwise Only" or "Use Counterclockwise Only". The tool can be used only in the direction indicated. Torque tools calibrated for bi-directional use will bear a yellow "SPECIAL CALIBRATION" tag or label indicating that the tool was calibrated for use in both directions. Navy torque wrenches can be calibrated for bi-directional use only if specifically authorized by model number in the latest Naval Sea Systems Command (NAVSEA) OD 45845.
c. Micrometer adjustable torque wrenches. To ensure acceptable performance of micrometer adjusted torque wrenches, users must adhere to the following requirements:
(1) Exercise the wrench (apply pressure until snap mechanism activates) six times at approximately 60 percent of the rated maximum value before each use. This procedure minimizes the erratic readings often experienced with this type of wrench during the first few activations.
(2) Micrometer-type wrenches to be used in counterclockwise applications should be calibrated in the counterclockwise direction and marked as such.
d. Extensions/Adapters. Torque wrenches are calibrated based on the specific length of the wrench as established by the wrench manufacturer. Use of an extension changes the effective length of the wrench. The actual torque being applied to the fastener will be different than that indicated on the wrench dial. Any time extensions are used, the following mathematical formulas should be used to determine the wrench dial reading required for the required applied torque:
NOTE: EXTENSIONS CAN SIGNIFICANTLY AFFECT THE APPLIED TORQUE TO INDICATED TORQUE RELATIONSHIP. ANY EXTENSION OTHER THAN A DIRECT ATTACHMENT (I.E., CROWSFOOT) MUST BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT.



​
Tind = Tact X L1
​
[FONT=&quot]L1 + L2[/FONT]

Where:
Tact
=
Applied torque required


[FONT=&quot]Tind[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]=[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Torque indicated on dial[/FONT]

L1
=
Length of torque wrench

L1 + L2
=
Length of torque wrench plus length of extension







When an adapter or extension is used on a torque wrench it increases the torque range of the wrench. The formula for computing torque when using an adapter or extension is explained in Figure 5-1 of this chapter.
Figure 5-1 Use of Torque Wrench Adapters
image002.gif
Click to expand...

If you want to see the whole book (all 7 volumes of it) you can go here

It is available in PDF or HTML and is unclassified so anyone can download and use.

Dik
 
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